Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Help locating current draw
| Help locating current draw [message #112782] |
Sun, 23 January 2011 16:28  |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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I know I read a long thread and instructions on how to attempt locating and isolating a current draw, however I cannot find it.
Would appreciate some help.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112792 is a reply to message #112782] |
Sun, 23 January 2011 17:16  |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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Hey Old
Are you saying you have a power leak??? Or you need to determine current draw amount???
One way that might be easy would be to get one of those small bulbs, 894 I think the number is, and remove the positive from the coach battery.... Jumper the bulb across the battery plus and the cable connector.
open all the breakers, or pull all the fuses... lolol
now one by one put the fuses in and check the light each time.
If you have a sizable power draw, the sight should lite. Then you need to search out the component that is causing the drain.
If the bulb is too much for the drain, such as if you have a very slight power drain, try an LED for 12v. Pos on battery, neg on cable. remove fuses again, put back and look one by one...
Easiest way.
If you want to determine the current draw, you need a meter...
My thoughts
Gatsbys' CRUISER  08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112798 is a reply to message #112782] |
Sun, 23 January 2011 17:43 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Have something drawing down the Battery, have both a test light and a Multi Meter.
Have removed all of the fuses in the Bath and Glove box and still have a draw.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112816 is a reply to message #112782] |
Sun, 23 January 2011 19:19 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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| Oldngray wrote on Sun, 23 January 2011 16:28 |
I know I read a long thread and instructions on how to attempt locating and isolating a current draw, however I cannot find it.
Would appreciate some help.
|
OK let's go to the basics.
There are two 12 volt electrical systems in your coach. The engine system and the house system.
Which one are you having problems with?
How bad is the current draw?
Is it under 10 amps? If it is under 10 amps then take any VOM set at 10 amps and connect it across your battery disconnect switch for the 12 volt side that has the drain. Then open the switch and read the exact draw.
If you do not have a battery disconnect switch then install one. That is the only thing that kept my coach from burning to the ground.
If you do not have a VOM go to Harbor Freight and buy 2 cheap ones. They are on sale at $2.99 each right now. At this price everyone should have at least 2 of these.
Now read the current draw and start pulling fuses until the load goes away or changes. The engine side fuses are in the glove compartment and the house side fuses, on my coach, are located in a rear cabinet. Pull the fuses while watching the meter. When the reading changes you will now which circuit or circuits to investigate more thoroughly.
Get it down to a circuit or circuits and we go more in depth on a later posting.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Help locating current draw [message #112835 is a reply to message #112792] |
Sun, 23 January 2011 21:13 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Be careful using an LED to measure current drain. Admittedly, it will
detect a small leak -- but it will also detect one too small to worry much
about. One of our batteries can provide the <10mA required to illuminate a
small LED for literally thousands of hours.
And it can lead to some surprises: A few years back, I found some ATO fuses
with internal LED's to indicate when the fuse element was blown. Seemed
like a nifty idea at the time.
When I later had to replace the refrigerator it wouldn't work. I soon found
that I had 12 VDC at all the proper locations and so reported to the
manufacturer. All of their and my checks idicated that the control board
was bad, so they sent me a new one.
With the new board installed, I still had the same symptoms. I don't
remember how it happened, but I eventually went inside the coach and found
one of those nifty ATO fuses glowing.
Yep, the LED was passing enough current to give correct readings on the DVM
I was using (11 megohm input impedance), but not enough to do anything
useful. When I replaced the fuse, the new refrigerator worked perfectly. I
still have the spare control board, which the manufacturer said wasn't worth
return postage to them.
Chalk one up for 3 years of EE education. :-)
Ken H.
On Sun, Jan 23, 2011 at 6:16 PM, Larry wrote:
>
>
> Hey Old
> Are you saying you have a power leak??? Or you need to determine current
> draw amount???
> ...
If the bulb is too much for the drain, such as if you have a very slight
> power drain, try an LED for 12v. Pos on battery, neg on cable. remove
> fuses again, put back and look one by one...
>
>
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www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112922 is a reply to message #112816] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 11:34 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
Karma: 0
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Answers In Line ***
| Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 23 January 2011 20:19 |
[
OK let's go to the basics.
There are two 12 volt electrical systems in your coach. The engine system and the house system.
Which one are you having problems with?
***Engine
How bad is the current draw?
***Will have to check, I have a good Multi Meter and a 12v test light.
Is it under 10 amps? If it is under 10 amps then take any VOM set at 10 amps and connect it across your battery disconnect switch for the 12 volt side that has the drain. Then open the switch and read the exact draw.
***Do not have one, in the meantime, how do I set up my test light or Meter?
If you do not have a battery disconnect switch then install one. That is the only thing that kept my coach from burning to the ground.
If you do not have a VOM go to Harbor Freight and buy 2 cheap ones. They are on sale at $2.99 each right now. At this price everyone should have at least 2 of these.
Now read the current draw and start pulling fuses until the load goes away or changes. The engine side fuses are in the glove compartment and the house side fuses, on my coach, are located in a rear cabinet. Pull the fuses while watching the meter. When the reading changes you will now which circuit or circuits to investigate more thoroughly.
Get it down to a circuit or circuits and we go more in depth on a later posting.
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Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112923 is a reply to message #112922] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 12:39 |
tphipps
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
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We just ran a test up here. One of our Ham Clubs members' truck battery would run down while He went on extended trips. (He is a Fed .) Turns out that his plugged in GPS, even when turned off, drew enough current to discharge his engine battery over the course of seven or eight days.
Energy hogs exist everywhere. Physical battery disconnects are a good idea.
TomPhipps
2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
KA4CSG
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112934 is a reply to message #112922] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 13:54 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Oldngray wrote on Mon, 24 January 2011 11:34 |
Answers In Line ***
| Ken Burton wrote on Sun, 23 January 2011 20:19 |
[
OK let's go to the basics.
There are two 12 volt electrical systems in your coach. The engine system and the house system.
Which one are you having problems with?
***Engine
How bad is the current draw?
***Will have to check, I have a good Multi Meter and a 12v test light.
Is it under 10 amps? If it is under 10 amps then take any VOM set at 10 amps and connect it across your battery disconnect switch for the 12 volt side that has the drain. Then open the switch and read the exact draw.
***Do not have one, in the meantime, how do I set up my test light or Meter?
If you do not have a battery disconnect switch then install one. That is the only thing that kept my coach from burning to the ground.
If you do not have a VOM go to Harbor Freight and buy 2 cheap ones. They are on sale at $2.99 each right now. At this price everyone should have at least 2 of these.
Now read the current draw and start pulling fuses until the load goes away or changes. The engine side fuses are in the glove compartment and the house side fuses, on my coach, are located in a rear cabinet. Pull the fuses while watching the meter. When the reading changes you will now which circuit or circuits to investigate more thoroughly.
Get it down to a circuit or circuits and we go more in depth on a later posting.
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Turn off EVERYTHING on the 12 volt engine side of the coach.
Disconnect either the + or - battery cable (NOT BOTH). With the meter set to the 10 amp scale set connect one meter lead to the removed battery cable and one meter lead the battery terminal where the cable was removed from. If the meter reads reversed, simply switch the meter leads.
Change to lower scales as necessary but always start on the 10 amp scale.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
[Updated on: Mon, 24 January 2011 14:32] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112936 is a reply to message #112934] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 14:01 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Thanks Ken, I did figure it out and have checked and rechecked, big 0.0000 shows up on the MM. My Battery which was fully charged last week is now sowing 12.4V. Am going to recharge today and check again tomorrow.
Do appreciate your patience.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112937 is a reply to message #112934] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 14:07 |
Larry C
Messages: 1168
Registered: July 2004
Location: NE Illinois by the Illino...
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I have a thought...
Have you done any new wiring before the problem arose????
If not... with all the fuses pulled there is little still connected, might check the battery combiner for corrosion then use the resistance to see if it is leaking the wrong way.
I had a truck that had a trailer plug with a hot lead.
The salt we have here gets into everything and the socket, even though it was full of silicone had salt inside. The hot terminal corroded to the case which was ground, and was draggin my battery down.
Also, I believe the STARTER has a hot lead to the coil. Check that position clean also.
Gatsbys' CRUISER 08-18-04
74 GLACIER X, 260/455-APC-4 Bagg'r
Remflex Manifold gaskets
CampGrounds needed, Add yours to "PLACES" />
http://www.gmceast.com/travel
_
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| Re: [GMCnet] Help locating current draw [message #112945 is a reply to message #112939] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 14:48 |
Oldngray
Messages: 544
Registered: August 2009
Location: Punta Gorda Florida
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Larry, none of those, thanks though for the thoughts.
Emery, the reading on ma is 0.01.
When I first make contact with the leads the reading starts at .04 and drops to .01.
I am thinking the same about the Bat, although it is only 2 months
old. Have it on Deep Cycle charge now, will use my Bat/charging circuit tester when it is finished charging. I have everything disconnected now.
Thanks for the thoughts.
Richard MacDonald
Punta Gorda, Florida
Sold our TZE April 2015
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| Re: Help locating current draw [message #112946 is a reply to message #112936] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 14:51 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| Oldngray wrote on Mon, 24 January 2011 14:01 |
Thanks Ken, I did figure it out and have checked and rechecked, big 0.0000 shows up on the MM. My Battery which was fully charged last week is now sowing 12.4V. Am going to recharge today and check again tomorrow.
Do appreciate your patience.
|
Make sure that your meter is reading something and working correctly. With the meter connected as before, open passenger side hood and the light should turn on. You should get a reading of an 1 or 2 amps on the meter. If you do not have that light then turn on one of the front interior lights and read the meter. DO NOT TURN ON THE HEADLIGHTS as that load may exceed the capacity of the meter. If the meter reads something then we can believe the previous reading that you got of 0.000.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Help locating current draw [message #112954 is a reply to message #112946] |
Mon, 24 January 2011 15:30 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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If "somebody" has hooked up the ammeter function
ACROSS the 12V line, you can bet that the internal
fuse of the multimeter has blown and NO current
will show up! Follow Ken's advice to ascertain
whether that is the situation with YOUR meter!
It's an easy goof to make. I'm sure Ken has done
it too! So have I, even after 57 years of this
electronics stuff. CRS for sure!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
----------------------------------------
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: n9cv@comcast.net
> Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 14:51:15 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Help locating current draw
>
>
>
> Oldngray wrote on Mon, 24 January 2011 14:01
> > Thanks Ken, I did figure it out and have checked and rechecked, big 0.0000 shows up on the MM. My Battery which was fully charged last week is now sowing 12.4V. Am going to recharge today and check again tomorrow.
> > Do appreciate your patience.
>
> Make sure that your meter is reading something and working correctly. With the meter connected as before, open passenger side hood and the light should turn on. You should get a reading of an 1 or 2 amps on the meter. If you do not have that light then turn on one of the front interior lights and read the meter. DO NOT TURN ON THE HEADLIGHTS as that load may exceed the capacity of the meter. If the meter reads something then we can believe the previous reading that you got of 0.000.
>
>
> --
> Ken Burton - N9KB
> 76 Palm Beach
> Hebron, Indiana
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
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