Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Gotta Have Tool!
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| Re: Gotta Have Tool! [message #111801 is a reply to message #111791] |
Wed, 12 January 2011 19:30   |
jknezek
Messages: 1057
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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tried them. they are a cheap knockoff and a failure of an idea. got some for christmas from my inlaws a year or so ago. Go buy decent ones from Sears...
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gotta Have Tool! [message #111813 is a reply to message #111801] |
Wed, 12 January 2011 20:43 |
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Come on, Jeremy, tell us what you really think. ;>)
Byron
Jeremy wrote:
>
>
> tried them. they are a cheap knockoff and a failure of an idea. got some for
> christmas from my inlaws a year or so ago. Go buy decent ones from Sears...
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Byron Songer
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Former owner but still an admirer
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| Re: Gotta Have Tool! [message #111868 is a reply to message #111791] |
Thu, 13 January 2011 08:59 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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OK. So my first reply, on second read, was a little harsh. On the other hand, I stand by the gist of it. Drill with one end, screw in, and unscrew out.... yeah, right. First off, the drill tips break off on anything harder than stainless steel. Second off, if you get a good drill hole, then you screw in, then you have to unscrew out. OK... what happens when you go to unscrew? Basically the screw you just put in comes right out. Screw in, unscrew out... no grip on the stripped screw that you've now completely destroyed the head on so there is now way to use a real stripped screw remover. Spent more time trying to get screws out that were destroyed by this tool than I would have if I had just done it the old way...
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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| Re: Gotta Have Tool! [message #111874 is a reply to message #111868] |
Thu, 13 January 2011 09:35 |
Don A
Messages: 895
Registered: October 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
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Jeremy, sir you missed it on this one.
The "drill"/burnisher turns counterclock wise to clean up a starting hole. Then the other end is also a left hand thread so you continue counterclockwise and hopefully the screw head holds, the threads bite and the screw comes on out. No screw in and out. Granted how tough is the bit vs the screw head.
Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba
[IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gotta Have Tool! [message #111878 is a reply to message #111868] |
Thu, 13 January 2011 10:26 |
gmcrv1
Messages: 839
Registered: August 2007
Location: Memphis
Karma: -1
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Senior Member |
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I'll assume this conversation is for screws vs. bolts. However, I found the
best larger screw/bolt extractor is made by Snap-On. It is a kit that
includes drill bits, centering sleeves, splined shafts and socket adapters.
You select the appropriate sized drill, sleeve, splined shaft and adapter
and drill the center of the bolt. Then you tap in the splined shaft and
slip the socket adapter on. Then you can put a full size six point wrench
or socket on the adapter - works great. Fortunately, I have never broken a
drill bit or shaft in the process of removing a bolt or stud. I'm sure the
heat from drilling helps also.
JWID
Tom Eckert N2VWN
73 Glacier
Oakland, TN
On Thu, Jan 13, 2011 at 8:59 AM, Jeremy <jtknezek@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> OK. So my first reply, on second read, was a little harsh. On the other
> hand, I stand by the gist of it. Drill with one end, screw in, and unscrew
> out.... yeah, right. First off, the drill tips break off on anything harder
> than stainless steel. Second off, if you get a good drill hole, then you
> screw in, then you have to unscrew out. OK... what happens when you go to
> unscrew? Basically the screw you just put in comes right out. Screw in,
> unscrew out... no grip on the stripped screw that you've now completely
> destroyed the head on so there is now way to use a real stripped screw
> remover. Spent more time trying to get screws out that were destroyed by
> this tool than I would have if I had just done it the old way...
> --
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Knezek
> 1976 Glenbrook
> Birmingham, AL
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: Gotta Have Tool! [message #111906 is a reply to message #111874] |
Thu, 13 January 2011 13:27 |
jknezek
Messages: 1057
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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| Don A wrote on Thu, 13 January 2011 10:35 |
Jeremy, sir you missed it on this one.
The "drill"/burnisher turns counterclock wise to clean up a starting hole. Then the other end is also a left hand thread so you continue counterclockwise and hopefully the screw head holds, the threads bite and the screw comes on out. No screw in and out. Granted how tough is the bit vs the screw head.
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Right you are. I stand corrected. Drill in, flip bit. Counter in to tighten and then continue counter to remove screw. Yep. Those are the directions. Remember following them now. Was lots of fun. Drill tips broke if the screw wasn't soft or you got the drill part done and then the removal side rounded out the hole. Every time. I blame the breaking tips on the cheap junk they make this out of. I blame the rounded hole on the fact that they encourage you to use an electric screwdriver to remove.
Clearly remember following the directions now. Tried it on 5 or 6 different screws on the GMC, different sizes. Don't think I got more than one of them to successfully come out with these "tools". Of course I only had 1 bit left at the end of the day. A fun afternoon was had by all and a $20 stocking stuffer was put through a lot of cursing.
The best way I've found to extract ruined screws depends on the screw/material. If the screw is either soft, or in something soft like wood, I've used a Rockler Screw Extractor to really good success: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2354 . Haven't found a version of this for metal yet.
If the material is too difficult, or I don't feel like making that big of a hole, I try to use a craftsmen hand version of these things. Drill it with one size smaller good metal bit, reverse screw in the craftsmen extractor very, very carefully by hand, and pray you get just enough head to show before stripping it to put some pliers on the rest. Try and use an electric screwdriver for removal, like these are designed for, and you get a nice round shiny crater in your screw head.
Thanks,
Jeremy Knezek
1976 Glenbrook
Birmingham, AL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Gotta Have Tool! [message #111908 is a reply to message #111906] |
Thu, 13 January 2011 13:55 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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And always remember that you will always get the best
results with a screwdriver if you use one with the
longest possible handle.
It's a matter of reducing the angular displacement
to a minimum when the lever arm is longest. That
came from my former boss at an avionics shop back
in the 80s. The process makes it easier to keep
the blade as close to perpendicular to the work
surface as possible and greatly reduces damage
to the screw head.
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
----------------------------------------
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: jtknezek@hotmail.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2011 13:27:59 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Gotta Have Tool!
>
>
>
> Don A wrote on Thu, 13 January 2011 10:35
> > Jeremy, sir you missed it on this one.
> >
> > The "drill"/burnisher turns counterclock wise to clean up a starting hole. Then the other end is also a left hand thread so you continue counterclockwise and hopefully the screw head holds, the threads bite and the screw comes on out. No screw in and out. Granted how tough is the bit vs the screw head.
>
>
>
> Right you are. I stand corrected. Drill in, flip bit. Counter in to tighten and then continue counter to remove screw. Yep. Those are the directions. Remember following them now. Was lots of fun. Drill tips broke if the screw wasn't soft or you got the drill part done and then the removal side rounded out the hole. Every time. I blame the breaking tips on the cheap junk they make this out of. I blame the rounded hole on the fact that they encourage you to use an electric screwdriver to remove.
>
> Clearly remember following the directions now. Tried it on 5 or 6 different screws on the GMC, different sizes. Don't think I got more than one of them to successfully come out with these "tools". Of course I only had 1 bit left at the end of the day. A fun afternoon was had by all and a $20 stocking stuffer was put through a lot of cursing.
>
> The best way I've found to extract ruined screws depends on the screw/material. If the screw is either soft, or in something soft like wood, I've used a Rockler Screw Extractor to really good success: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2354 . Haven't found a version of this for metal yet.
>
> If the material is too difficult, or I don't feel like making that big of a hole, I try to use a craftsmen hand version of these things. Drill it with one size smaller good metal bit, reverse screw in the craftsmen extractor very, very carefully by hand, and pray you get just enough head to show before stripping it to put some pliers on the rest. Try and use an electric screwdriver for removal, like these are designed for, and you get a nice round shiny crater in your screw head.
> --
> Thanks,
> Jeremy Knezek
> 1976 Glenbrook
> Birmingham, AL
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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