| Re-arcing the Door [message #111309] |
Sat, 08 January 2011 00:37  |
LEdmcconnell
Messages: 12
Registered: November 2004
Location: Bridgeton, MO
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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I need to re-arc my door. Can someone direct me to the web-page
that has the instructions
Luther McConnell
'76 Birchaven
Bridgeton, MO
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re-arcing the Door [message #111322 is a reply to message #111314] |
Sat, 08 January 2011 09:08  |
Erv Troyer
Messages: 125
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lagrange, IN
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Ken Henderson wrote on Sat, 08 January 2011 07:09 |
Luther,
Recurve the door on WHAT? I hadn't heard you'd repaired or replaced your coach. Tell us more.
Ken H.
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Ken,
Luther bought that Birchhaven that I did some work on last summer. They drove it home from Indiana first week of December.
Seems his other coach had a meeting with some other object in Nashville a few weeks before that - I'll let Luther explain that. Last I knew it was scheduled to be moved to Chuck Boyd's place, and Chuck was going to help remove some parts from that to put on the coach he has now.
Erv Troyer Lagrange, IN
74 Sequoia
reo43@aol.com
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| Re: Re-arcing the Door [message #111325 is a reply to message #111309] |
Sat, 08 January 2011 09:19 |
bryant374
Messages: 563
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Luther,
The GMC Service Bulletin is shown on the link below.
Over correcting the door curve is NOT a problem. With the door closed, carefully look at the fit of the body to door match to determine just where the change needs to take place. Use a piece of 2x4 at the top and/or bottom of the door between the body & open door & "try" to close the door against the 2x4s to correct the "over curve" area. Sometimes door fit adjustments can also be made by moving the hinges as well.
Granted, the body may have sagged (after 30+ years of use some of us may know of this problem), I have had good success recurving many doors using the above method.
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=31970&title=service-bulletin-75-tm-19&cat=5293
Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
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| Re: Re-arcing the Door [message #111346 is a reply to message #111335] |
Sat, 08 January 2011 15:04 |
bryant374
Messages: 563
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Re: Re-arcing the Door Sat, 08 January 2011 13:44
Harry
How can you tell if it's the door that's bent or the body that has sagged?
Harry,
I have a template for the original body curve I used to bring to rallies and check coaches. Drop by here any time and I will check your coach ;^)
Some generalities:
If you have a larger gap (furniture module to body)mid coach than at top or bottom, probably the coach body has bulged.
If you have a 1973 coach, probably the body has bulged. Other years bulge also, but by 1978 there seems to be much less of it.
My opinion is that it is much easier to fit the door to the body, than fit the body to the door. The fit between the body & door is important, how you get there is less important, again, in my opinion.
Bill Bryant
PO 1976~PB (owned 34 years)
1914 Ford (owned 70 years)
1965 Corvette (owned 39 years)
GMC Motorhome History
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| Re: [GMCnet] Re-arcing the Door [message #111488 is a reply to message #111322] |
Sun, 09 January 2011 21:23 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Thanks, Erv, I hadn't heard about either Luther's new purchase nor
the rescue of his old one. "Why am I always the last to know?"
Luther, the wi-fi here at Lazy Days isn't allowing me to search the
photo site for Dan Winchester's album on door recurving; you can
probably find it by searching for his name.
But the procedure is easy enough to describe: Forget the crazy clamps
top & bottom of the door like shown in the manual. Drill 3/8" holes
near the top and bottom of the latch side of the door (the narrow
edge, that is). Get a couple of long 5/16" eye bolts, or make them
from all-thread, and open the eyes so they can be hooked into the two
holes. Drill holes through the 4" dimension of a 2x4 long enough to
extend above and below the two holes, with those holes positioned to
fit over the two eye bolts. Put washers and nuts on the eye bolts to
secure the 2x4 just far enough from the door to allow a small bottle
jack to fit between the 2x4 and the door at its maximum curvature.
Use appropriate padding to protect the door finish. Now just pump the
jack to increase the curvature of the door. It's a 'do it a little &
try it & do it again" operation, but quite simple and easy. If you
find the photos, the first one will make the whole thing more clear
than this plus 1000 more words. :-)
Ken H.
On Sat, Jan 8, 2011 at 10:08 AM, Erv Troyer <reo43@aol.com> wrote:
> Luther bought that Birchhaven that I did some work on last summer. They drove it home from Indiana first week of December.
>...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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