Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Road Wonder
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110650 is a reply to message #110642] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 09:34   |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Michael,
Like Charles says if anyone would still have a printed set for sale it
would be Jim K. The original complete printed set that I got from
Cinnabar in 1999 cost over $160. Cinnabar I believe no longer has
complete sets, but you could check. (800 720-2227) Even used sets
will be somewhat expensive. I sell a set of the manuals plus many
other GMC information item on disk for $8 and that includes shipping
and everything is printable. Emory also has the manuals and other
information also available on disk too! If your interested send me
your snail mail address.
JR Wright
On Jan 3, 2011, at 9:29 AM, Michael wrote:
>
>
> Ahh no I wasn't planning on getting you involved at all! Just want
> the specs. Who can I call to buy a MM in print not cd.
> --
> ***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
> Michael, Casa Grande, AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110666 is a reply to message #109821] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 11:28 |
gbarrow2
Messages: 765
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lake Almanor, Ca./ Red Bl...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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I have followed this thread with great interest since I have similar issues with the steering on my coach. I have previously posted questions and received many helpful replys.
However , I have a question about checking tie rod ends.
Both Steve F. and Jin K. have stated that many times tie rod ends appear ok until they are disconnected. Then a problem can be identified in the "center position"
Most of my other suspension components needed to and have been replaced recently. But the coach still doesn't drive "right".
We never looked closely at the tie rod ends since they seemed secure and tight.
So, my question is; when I take the tie rod ends off will any defects be readily appearent? What do I look for ? Loosness, stickiness in the range of motion? Would it be helpful to have a new one on hand to compare when I disassemble the ones on the coach?
I don't mind spending money to replace worn parts; but I hate to spend the money and time to replace a part that is perfectly servicable and I just don't know how to tell the difference.
I have looked on the gmcnet and found many examples of broken and worn suspension components but I can't find anthing specific about tie rod ends.
I don't want another experience like Ken Burton's daughter; where a service writer wants to replace her brand new shocks. Been there before so I am always skeptical.
Thanks for your help.
Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110673 is a reply to message #110666] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 12:32 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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| gbarrow wrote on Mon, 03 January 2011 11:28 |
I don't want another experience like Ken Burton's daughter; where a service writer wants to replace her brand new shocks. Been there before so I am always skeptical.
Thanks for your help.
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The GM designed idler arm is really bad and the bushing tends to allow the arm to push up and down causing varying amounts of toe changes. I replaced mine with another OEM one and it still did the same thing. Then I got one from Dave Lenzi and that fixed the problem.
Try pushing up and down on the idler arm.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110690 is a reply to message #110666] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 15:22 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Gene,
Funny you should mention this. The step which checks the tie rod ends was
based on what I had done on other vehicles. I assumed it would work in a
GMC; I never checked them in either of my GMC's; they were all replaced in
both Double Trouble and The Blue Streak.
Steve responded to the procedure by noting that unless the tie rod ends were
grossly worn what I had written would not work properly and would only check
for gross wear. To check the tie rod ends properly one end would have to be
disconnected.
I had a chat with him yesterday about this and he explained that the tie rod
ends need to be in the "neutral" position to check them properly. I think
I'll let Steve explain that in detail as I've shot myself in the foot once
trying to be helpful and it would be kinda stupid to do it again!
BTW this is a perfect demonstration of the old saying about the word
"assume!" ;-)
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of gene barrow
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 4:29 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder
I have followed this thread with great interest since I have similar issues
with the steering on my coach. I have previously posted questions and
received many helpful replys.
However , I have a question about checking tie rod ends.
Both Steve F. and Jin K. have stated that many times tie rod ends appear
ok until they are disconnected. Then a problem can be identified in the
"center position"
Most of my other suspension components needed to and have been replaced
recently. But the coach still doesn't drive "right".
We never looked closely at the tie rod ends since they seemed secure and
tight.
So, my question is; when I take the tie rod ends off will any defects be
readily appearent? What do I look for ? Loosness, stickiness in the range of
motion? Would it be helpful to have a new one on hand to compare when I
disassemble the ones on the coach?
I don't mind spending money to replace worn parts; but I hate to spend the
money and time to replace a part that is perfectly servicable and I just
don't know how to tell the difference.
I have looked on the gmcnet and found many examples of broken and worn
suspension components but I can't find anthing specific about tie rod ends.
I don't want another experience like Ken Burton's daughter; where a service
writer wants to replace her brand new shocks. Been there before so I am
always skeptical.
Thanks for your help.
--
Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110692 is a reply to message #110690] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 16:02 |
gbarrow2
Messages: 765
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lake Almanor, Ca./ Red Bl...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
Thanks for the input. That's why I asked the question.
Based on Steve's and Jim's past comments I thought there must be something more to inspecting the tie rod ends than just checking for play while they are still connected.
Mine are tight without play. I want to know what to look for before I disconnect them.
Maybe Steve will chime in with details; if he's not too busy entertaining the Weidners.
Any one else out there with some steering/suspension experience please feel free to jump in with suggestions.
Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110735 is a reply to message #110642] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 20:25 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Michael,
I wasn't concerned about you getting me involved I was concerned that
Spectrac and/or the BBB would blow you off if you didn't provide data from
an "approved" source.
If Jim K doesn't have them try Cinnabar (800) 720-2227.
I found this one on eBay 290511008535 but it's the supplement X-7725 for
1977 & 1978 GMC's. I just checked my copy of X-7725 and found that the front
and rear alignment specs are in there; HOWEVER, the General description and
operation are not.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 1:29 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder
Ahh no I wasn't planning on getting you involved at all! Just want the
specs. Who can I call to buy a MM in print not cd.
--
***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
Michael, Casa Grande, AZ
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110736 is a reply to message #109821] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 20:49 |
RadioActiveGMC
Messages: 1020
Registered: November 2010
Location: Hot AZ desert
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I know you typed them but kinda confused as to which ones to use, super sorry-
But what are the specs (NOT FOR BBB OR COMPLAINT) but to forward to a local alignment shop.
We have a old school alignment shop in town that does everything by hand. Its family owned and has been around for a long time. Another alignment shop even told me this shop is the best in the state.
I'd like to be able to print out something to give him. So I can hopefully get the alignment done correctly. But I'd like to have specs in hand to give him so he can align it correctly for my 1973 23ft GMC and not some other vehicle!
***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
Michael, Onans smell, "Go solar/wind power!"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110755 is a reply to message #110736] |
Mon, 03 January 2011 23:29 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Michael,
I am going to send you an OFF NET message with the applicable pages out of
the GMC Maintenance Manual (MM) attached for your reference which you can
provide to the new alignment shop. However, in my opinion those documents
aren't really enough to find and solve your problem in a logical manner.
IMHO the sequence of events should be:
1) Check the steering components for wear/proper operation. I am
particularly suspicious of the steering box as I fear that Spectrac did not
adjust it IAW the MM. A properly adjusted steering box is critical!
2) Check the front suspension components for wear/proper operation.
3) Check the rear suspension components for wear/proper operation.
If there are worn components in the steering or front suspension systems you
could be pissing away money having the alignment depending on which
components they are.
If there are worn components in the rear suspension the same holds true.
Once you're sure all the components in the above systems are serviceable
then:
1) Set the GMC's ride height as per the MM.
Note: it's not a bad idea to have the GMC loaded as you would
when taking a trip.
2) Align the GMC's front suspension/steering as per the MM.
3) Align the GMC's rear suspension as per the MM.
To perform the steps above you or the alignment shop really should have a
copy of the whole MM unless of course the shop is one of those specialize in
repairing GMC's.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Michael
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2011 1:49 PM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder
I know you typed them but kinda confused as to which ones to use, super
sorry-
But what are the specs (NOT FOR BBB OR COMPLAINT) but to forward to a local
alignment shop.
We have a old school alignment shop in town that does everything by hand.
Its family owned and has been around for a long time. Another alignment shop
even told me this shop is the best in the state.
I'd like to be able to print out something to give him. So I can hopefully
get the alignment done correctly. But I'd like to have specs in hand to give
him so he can align it correctly for my 1973 23ft GMC and not some other
vehicle!
--
***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
Michael, Casa Grande, AZ
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110766 is a reply to message #110736] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 07:54 |
Charles
Messages: 455
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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Michael,
Don't get the cart ahead of the horse. Wait till your GMC Guru
can check out your coach. The Guru might find something simple
that was missed or lied about. If this happens it will give you
more ammunition. Your coach is not going anywhere unless you let it
Charles
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael" <radioactive626@msn.com>
To: <gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org>
Sent: Monday, January 03, 2011 8:49 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder
>
>
> I know you typed them but kinda confused as to which ones to use, super
> sorry-
> But what are the specs (NOT FOR BBB OR COMPLAINT) but to forward to a
> local alignment shop.
> We have a old school alignment shop in town that does everything by hand.
> Its family owned and has been around for a long time. Another alignment
> shop even told me this shop is the best in the state.
> I'd like to be able to print out something to give him. So I can hopefully
> get the alignment done correctly. But I'd like to have specs in hand to
> give him so he can align it correctly for my 1973 23ft GMC and not some
> other vehicle!
> --
> ***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
> Michael, Casa Grande, AZ
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Charles Wersal
Duncanville, Texas
26 foot 1975 Glenbrook
Pandora's Box
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110767 is a reply to message #109821] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 08:08 |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2277
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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I see I did a really lousy job at typing my first post, so here is what I've done so far, with a few things I missed the first time.
So far: (and not in order)
- New Michelin LTX tires on Eagle wheels
- steering box rebuilt twice, once from NAPA, Second time from Racemate (a recommended rebuilder on bdub's site)
- new tie road ends
- new front stabilizer bar end links
- new Ferguson control arm bushings
- new adjustable drag link
- New steering intermediate shaft
- New relay arm and idler arm twice
---- First time from Cinnibar
---- Second units from Dave Lenzi (Cinnibar's are terrible)
- New steering column bearing and adapter
- new rear bogie arms pins and bushings
- new rear bogie greasers to keep them well lubricated
- new KYB shocks front and rear
- front end alignment 3 times
--- Once after safety check when new to me, tie rod ends had been replaced
--- Once after finding forum, and new Ferguson bushing, tried max caster and suggested settings
--- once more after replacing idler arms with Dave Lenzi units (this was after 6 wheel alignment at Cinnibar)
- 6 wheel alignment and height adjustment (Cinnibar)
- True Track system added
- Rear bearings checked and repacked.
- new steering damper
- added air bag isolators (then used them once to set the rear height at a fixed setting, no difference felt)
Its much better than when I bought it, but I would not say its anywhere near a one-hand steer. A number of of the steering parts were required for the initial Safety Check when I bought it.
Everything has made it maginally better. the most improvement was seen when I replaced the Cinnibar relay and Idler arms with Dave Lenzi units, and the steering box rebuild from Racemate.
I can stand outside and reach inside to slightly move the steering wheel and the front wheels move with little play in the steering.
I should say that as an ex-farm boy I grew up driving machinery and trucks with very loose steering. Dad also had a Courier business and repaired vehicles only when they broke with the minimum cost (ie shocks were never replaced, cheapest tires never balanced and he aligned the front ends to get max. miles from the tires, not for best steering!) So I have lots of experience getting gnarly old vehicles down the road at maximum speed.
It reminds me of driving our old 1 ton Ford chassis cab overloaded with cattle, but one cow short to pack the cattle tight so now they can move around a bit and shift the load.... Ok that was worse but you get the idea.
My vehicles (even my company ones) get the royal treatment.
Still feels like the back could be where my problem is, but maybe not, not much left to change... I've even changed the steering wheel! ..lol
I'm thinking of installing a couple video cameras pointed at the back wheels with a laser pointed at the wheel so I can see how much movement there is back there.
None of the tires look like they are being scuffed from bad alignment, just a tad of feathering on the fronts after about 10k miles so far.
Keep the ideas coming!
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
[Updated on: Tue, 04 January 2011 08:10] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110771 is a reply to message #110767] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 09:25 |
emerystora
Messages: 4442
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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Bruce
I had purchased my GMC when it was 3 years old. It drove extremely
well for years. Then about 2002 I had new bushings put into the rear
bogies and the rear wheels aligned. It was all over the road and my
rear tires wore badly.
I had the rear realigned in Florida where the arms were bent and shims
put under the bogies and then again in California where the spindles
were shimmed. About $3000 later it still drove very badly and was hard
to steer.
I was then told about Rennegers in San Jose, CA. They are an alignment
shop near downtown San Jose. They had two GMCs and a huge Provost in
their shop when I went in.
They checked the alignment and told me the camber was very bad but the
worst thing was that it was "dog tracking". That is that the rear
wheels were aligned with the right toe in/ toe out but both sides were
pointing to the right and not aligned to the frame.
They took off the bogies, removed all shims and attached the bogies
back to the frame. They then checked the alignment again, shimmed the
bogies as much as they could and then shimmed the spindles until they
got things right.
This was back about in 2004 and it totally corrected my road wander
and steering problems. It drove as well as when I bought it. The bad
tire wear also dissapeared.
If I remember correctly the cost at Rennegers was about $1500.
So I had a total cost of over $3500 in alignments and $2000 in worn
out tires but it handled great again.
One really has to find a shop that specializes in alignments and that
has the right equipment to do a proper job. A shop with a hydraulic
ram to bend bogie arms and outdated string connected alignment
machines just doesn't cut it in my mind (and on my pocketbook).
Emery Stora
On Jan 4, 2011, at 7:08 AM, Bruce Hislop <bruce@perthcomm.com> wrote:
>
>
> I see I did a really lousy job at typing my first post, so here is
> what I've done so far, with a few things I missed the first time.
>
> So far: (and not in order)
> - New Michelin LTX tires on Eagle wheels
> - steering box rebuilt twice, once from NAPA, Second time from
> Racemate (a recommended rebuilder on bdub's site)
> - new tie road ends
> - new front stabilizer bar end links
> - new Ferguson control arm bushings
> - new adjustable drag link
> - New steering intermediate shaft
> - New relay arm and idler arm twice
> - First time from Cinnibar
> - Second units from Dave Lenzi (Cinnibar's are terrible)
> - New steering column bearing and adapter
> - new rear bogie arms pins and bushings
> - new rear bogie greasers to keep them well lubricated
> - new KYB shocks front and rear
> - front end alignment 3 times
> - Once after safety check when new to me, tie rod ends had been
> replaced
> - Once after finding forum, and new Ferguson bushing, tried max
> caster and suggested settings
> - once more after replacing idler arms with Dave Lenzi units (this
> was after 6 wheel alignment at Cinnibar)
> - 6 wheel alignment and height adjustment (Cinnibar)
> - True Track system added
> - Rear bearings checked and repacked.
> - new steering damper
> - added air bag isolators (then used them once to set the rear
> height at a fixed setting, no difference felt)
>
> Its much better than when I bought it, but I would not say its
> anywhere near a one-hand steer. A number of of the steering parts
> were required for the initial Safety Check when I bought it.
>
> Everything has made it maginally better. the most improvement was
> seen when I replaced the Cinnibar relay and Idler arms with Dave
> Lenzi units, and the steering box rebuild from Racemate.
>
> I can stand outside and reach inside to slightly move the steering
> wheel and the front wheels move with little play in the steering.
>
> I should say that as an ex-farm boy I grew up driving machinery and
> trucks with very loose steering. Dad also had a Courier business and
> repaired vehicles only when they broke with the minimum cost (ie
> shocks were never replaced, cheapest tires never balanced and he
> aligned the front ends to get max. miles from the tires, not for
> best steering!) So I have lots of experience getting gnarly old
> vehicles down the road at maximum speed.
>
> It reminds me of driving our old 1 ton Ford chassis cab overloaded
> with cattle, but one cow short to pack the cattle tight so now they
> can move around a bit and shift the load.... Ok that was worse but
> you get the idea.
>
> My vehicles (even my company ones) get the royal treatment.
>
> Still feels like the back could be where my problem is, but maybe
> not, not much left to change... I've even changed the steering
> wheel! ..lol
>
> I'm thinking of installing a couple video cameras pointed at the
> back wheels with a laser pointed at the wheel so I can see how much
> movement there is back there.
>
> None of the tires look like they are being scuffed from bad
> alignment, just a tad of feathering on the fronts after about 10k
> miles so far.
>
> Keep the ideas coming!
>
> --
> Bruce Hislop,
> S. Ontario Canada
> 77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI and ESC.
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110776 is a reply to message #110767] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 10:39 |
shawnee
Messages: 422
Registered: February 2004
Location: NC
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| RF_Burns wrote on Tue, 04 January 2011 09:08 |
I see I did a really lousy job at typing my first post, so here is what I've done so far, with a few things I missed the first time.
So far: (and not in order)
- New Michelin LTX tires on Eagle wheels
- steering box rebuilt twice, once from NAPA, Second time from Racemate (a recommended rebuilder on bdub's site)
- new tie road ends
- new front stabilizer bar end links
- new Ferguson control arm bushings
- new adjustable drag link
- New steering intermediate shaft
- New relay arm and idler arm twice
---- First time from Cinnibar
---- Second units from Dave Lenzi (Cinnibar's are terrible)
- New steering column bearing and adapter
- new rear bogie arms pins and bushings
- new rear bogie greasers to keep them well lubricated
- new KYB shocks front and rear
- front end alignment 3 times
--- Once after safety check when new to me, tie rod ends had been replaced
--- Once after finding forum, and new Ferguson bushing, tried max caster and suggested settings
--- once more after replacing idler arms with Dave Lenzi units (this was after 6 wheel alignment at Cinnibar)
- 6 wheel alignment and height adjustment (Cinnibar)
- True Track system added
- Rear bearings checked and repacked.
- new steering damper
- added air bag isolators (then used them once to set the rear height at a fixed setting, no difference felt)
Its much better than when I bought it, but I would not say its anywhere near a one-hand steer. A number of of the steering parts were required for the initial Safety Check when I bought it.
Everything has made it maginally better. the most improvement was seen when I replaced the Cinnibar relay and Idler arms with Dave Lenzi units, and the steering box rebuild from Racemate.
I can stand outside and reach inside to slightly move the steering wheel and the front wheels move with little play in the steering.
I should say that as an ex-farm boy I grew up driving machinery and trucks with very loose steering. Dad also had a Courier business and repaired vehicles only when they broke with the minimum cost (ie shocks were never replaced, cheapest tires never balanced and he aligned the front ends to get max. miles from the tires, not for best steering!) So I have lots of experience getting gnarly old vehicles down the road at maximum speed.
It reminds me of driving our old 1 ton Ford chassis cab overloaded with cattle, but one cow short to pack the cattle tight so now they can move around a bit and shift the load.... Ok that was worse but you get the idea.
My vehicles (even my company ones) get the royal treatment.
Still feels like the back could be where my problem is, but maybe not, not much left to change... I've even changed the steering wheel! ..lol
I'm thinking of installing a couple video cameras pointed at the back wheels with a laser pointed at the wheel so I can see how much movement there is back there.
None of the tires look like they are being scuffed from bad alignment, just a tad of feathering on the fronts after about 10k miles so far.
Keep the ideas coming!
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Bruce,
One thing I found out several years ago when I had someone replace the steering box is to check the clamps on top of the box and the top toward the steering wheel. These must be tightened to where there is no gap in the clamps. Mine had maybe 1/16 inch gap and gave me the steering wheel play of about 1 inch. It is a little difficult to reach with wrenches so they apparently just gave up.
Gene Dotson
74 Canyonlands
www.bdub.net/Motorhome_Enhancements New Windows and Aluminum Radiators
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110782 is a reply to message #110771] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 11:22 |
gbarrow2
Messages: 765
Registered: February 2004
Location: Lake Almanor, Ca./ Red Bl...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Emery,
Thanks for posting that information. I'm hoping to get my coach steering under control without all the trial, error, and expense that you had.
I found a web site http://www.reineggerframeandwheel.com.
They are in San Jose and the home page shows a picture of a GMC and happy owner/customer. So this must be the place that solved your problem.
Glad to finally find a Nor Cal alignment shop with GMC experience and a positive review from a knowledgable GMC driver.
Gene Barrow
Lake Almanor, Ca.
1976 Palm Beach
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110787 is a reply to message #110780] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 12:42 |
Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I'm certainly not against any of the available upgrades but I have an interesting and sort of humbling story. For about 15 years I fought wander and rut running on my coach. It was and still is totally stock and the entire front end was rebuilt. I talked my friend into buying a GMC and he found one in the southeast. We picked it up and drove it home. It went down the road as straight as an arrow. As we got to evaluate the coach in the next couple of weeks, we discovered 3 different brands of tires, a seriously worn out RH ball joint, loose front wheel bearings, and a badly out of alignment LH rear bogie. To make a long story short, he had ragwalls all the way around (surprisingly all the same size too). I finally bit the bullet and got rid of my Michelin XPS rib steel walls and it transformed the coach. I came away from that experience realizing once again that tires may be the single biggest factor in wander (among otherthings)
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
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| Re: Road Wonder [message #110792 is a reply to message #109821] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 12:58 |
RadioActiveGMC
Messages: 1020
Registered: November 2010
Location: Hot AZ desert
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I don't know if any of this means anything just collecting data...
I looked at the steering gear they installed about 1 year ago, and Spectrac said they adjusted due to it being over tight...the numbers I could find on the unit were,
Delphi 26078703WFZ it was stamped into the steel on the part
Then there was a sticker TNG3563L0028, and the same sticker contained P07817940
I looked at the new tires I have as well,
Rears: Tread 3 polyester+2 steel+1 nylon
Sidewall 3 polyester
Front: Sidewall 2 polyester, Tread 2 polyester, 2 steel, 2 nylon
Dont know if any of that helps or means anything!
***"Gettin There"-1973 23' Sequoia-
Michael, Onans smell, "Go solar/wind power!"
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| Re: [GMCnet] Road Wonder [message #110793 is a reply to message #110792] |
Tue, 04 January 2011 13:30 |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 1:58 PM, Michael <radioactive626@msn.com> wrote:
>
> I looked at the new tires I have as well,
> Rears: Tread 3 polyester+2 steel+1 nylon
> Sidewall 3 polyester
> Front: Sidewall 2 polyester, Tread 2 polyester, 2 steel, 2 nylon
>
> Dont know if any of that helps or means anything!
>
It means you have ragwalls already.
Check ride height first. Some people like the look of the coach with the
rear a bit higher than the front, and set their air bags to make it so, but
the coach steering geometry was designed for the rear to actually look a
little low compared to the front. That's another one of those simple things
that can cause the coach to be more squirrely than it should--things that
alignment shops don't always know to check.
Rick "whose coach has a few 'slack point' but still drives straight" Denney
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'73 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
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