| [GMCnet] RV Trailer Tongue 12v dc Jacks On GMC [message #110307] |
Thu, 30 December 2010 22:54  |
Charles Aulgur
Messages: 78
Registered: March 2006
Karma: 0
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Member |
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From: Jay Rabe <jayrabe@hotmail.com>
.
OTOH I imagine the mounting might be a significant engineering
challenge. One that I looked at (and they're all pretty similar)
sticks up 18" above the mounting plate. Love to see some details of
how Chuck modified and mounted his.
I'm afraid my wannado list just got lo
I'm sorry Jay, that was done over 20 years ago before digital cameras
and I don't have any photos to show. The fronts were very simple, I
just welded a short piece of 4" channel-iron with the short legs
pointing up to each side of the front cross frame where the front
frame connects to the side frames. The channel-iron had a round hole
in the center slightly larger then the jack diameter and had three
holes to mount the jack round mounting flange. The motor and gears
assembly mounts on top of the jack and is easily removed by loosening
two set screws. Just slide the jack up through the hole in the
channel-iron, bolt the flange in place and reattach the motor
assembly. I installed a micro-switch that turns on an indicator
light on the DPDT switch mounts in the dash adjacent to the three air
system control valves.
The rear mounts consisted of a short section of 3' channel-iron
mounted with the two legs pointing down to the slanted outer bottom
of the bogie frame and bolted thru the slots in the bogie frame.
This channel-iron was welded to a 10" long vertical piece of 2"
channel-iron with the two legs pointing and setting about 1/2" out
from the outer face of the bogie frame between the two suspension pen
mounting bolts. Another horizontal piece of 2" channel-iron was
mounted across the top side of the bogie frame and bolted to the two
threaded holes and welded to the vertical piece. Cut off the round
jack mounting flange and clamp the round jack in the grove in the
vertical channel-iron. Weld on a short piece of bar to the inside
surface of of the jack at the lower end of the vertical cannel to
support any vertical load. You need to cut off about 6 " at the
bottom of the jack because the wheel well limits how high the jack is
mounted.
Chuck
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| Re: [GMCnet] RV Trailer Tongue 12v dc Jacks On GMC [message #110308 is a reply to message #110307] |
Thu, 30 December 2010 23:17  |
John Sharpe
Messages: 489
Registered: February 2006
Location: Texas
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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| Quote: |
The fronts were very simple, I
just welded a short piece of 4" channel-iron with the short legs
pointing up to each side of the front cross frame where the front
frame connects to the side frames. The channel-iron had a round hole
in the center slightly larger then the jack diameter and had three
holes to mount the jack round mounting flange. The motor and gears
assembly mounts on top of the jack and is easily removed by loosening
two set screws. Just slide the jack up through the hole in the
channel-iron, bolt the flange in place and reattach the motor
assembly. I installed a micro-switch that turns on an indicator
light on the DPDT switch mounts in the dash adjacent to the three air
system control valves.
|
Chuck, Please............We need pictures or diagrams. Most of us are too old or lazy to try to picture this in our minds.
John Sharpe
Humble,TX
'78 Eleganza TBI
'89 Spectrum 2000 MPI V-10
'40 Ford Panel Delivery TPI
johnasharpe@gmail.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] RV Trailer Tongue 12v dc Jacks On GMC [message #110309 is a reply to message #110307] |
Thu, 30 December 2010 23:14 |
powerjon
Messages: 2446
Registered: January 2004
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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Chuck,
Wasn't this information published in GMC Motorhome Market place? Do
you remember the issue?
JR
>
> OTOH I imagine the mounting might be a significant engineering
> challenge. One that I looked at (and they're all pretty similar)
> sticks up 18" above the mounting plate. Love to see some details of
> how Chuck modified and mounted his.
>
> I'm afraid my wannado list just got lo
>
> I'm sorry Jay, that was done over 20 years ago before digital cameras
> and I don't have any photos to show. The fronts were very simple, I
> just welded a short piece of 4" channel-iron with the short legs
> pointing up to each side of the front cross frame where the front
> frame connects to the side frames. The channel-iron had a round hole
> in the center slightly larger then the jack diameter and had three
> holes to mount the jack round mounting flange. The motor and gears
> assembly mounts on top of the jack and is easily removed by loosening
> two set screws. Just slide the jack up through the hole in the
> channel-iron, bolt the flange in place and reattach the motor
> assembly. I installed a micro-switch that turns on an indicator
> light on the DPDT switch mounts in the dash adjacent to the three air
> system control valves.
>
> The rear mounts consisted of a short section of 3' channel-iron
> mounted with the two legs pointing down to the slanted outer bottom
> of the bogie frame and bolted thru the slots in the bogie frame.
> This channel-iron was welded to a 10" long vertical piece of 2"
> channel-iron with the two legs pointing and setting about 1/2" out
> from the outer face of the bogie frame between the two suspension pen
> mounting bolts. Another horizontal piece of 2" channel-iron was
> mounted across the top side of the bogie frame and bolted to the two
> threaded holes and welded to the vertical piece. Cut off the round
> jack mounting flange and clamp the round jack in the grove in the
> vertical channel-iron. Weld on a short piece of bar to the inside
> surface of of the jack at the lower end of the vertical cannel to
> support any vertical load. You need to cut off about 6 " at the
> bottom of the jack because the wheel well limits how high the jack is
> mounted.
>
> Chuck
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GMCnet mailing list
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J.R. Wright
GMC GreatLaker
GMC Eastern States
GMCMI
78 30' Buskirk Stretch
75 Avion Under Reconstruction
Michigan
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