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[GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106627] Wed, 24 November 2010 10:04 Go to next message
k2gkk is currently offline  k2gkk   United States
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
Senior Member

This is probably of little interest to the group,
but I'm going to post it anyway. If nothing else,
I need to shed some credit on C B Wood for his
assistance.

After I went to the storage lot on a beautifully
warm day on Saturday, I had resolved to do something
about the strong smell of raw gasoline whenever the
motor was running. I lifted the hatch and got the
motor running (with considerable pumping of the
go pedal). I saw that the fuel line to the carb
suddenly got very shiny! Oh, oh! Fuel leak, big
time. Okay, well, I'll tackle that on Sunday. C B
offered to come over and help, saying that it should
be about a half hour job. Yeah, right! After I got
the carb end off and he got the fuel pump end off,
we found that there was no way to put on the Jim B
insulated, stainless steel braided line in its place!

OOPS! Fuel pump has THREE fittings on its top;
apparently an erroneous replacement.

The above pretty much shot THREE hours all to heck.

The only alternative is to get another "RUBBER" hose
to use with the existing fittings. I got those on
Sunday afternoon at nearby AutoZone. Off to the
storage lot on Monday. I guess I spent about 45
minutes figuring out how to thread the new line
down through all the other hoses and wiring bundles
to the fuel pump. Luckily, the fitting went into
the pump outlet quite easily and after getting it
finger tight, it took about 1/4 with the flarenut
wrench to snug it down. Voila! Engine runs with
NO raw fuel to be seen.

I left my pickup at the storage lot and drove the
coach home (about 2 miles). In the afternoon, I
put a charger on the house battery (big monster
behind the Onan). After about 1/2 hour of a 6 Amp
charge, the genny started right up.

Hallelujah! BOTH roof ACs working and blowing cold!
Toaster oven caused an RPM drop when turned on for
just a few seconds. Norcold fridge (12VDC/120VAC
and propane) turns on, but not sure of its operation.

Next steps are to get brakes working better and then
try to get the coach's wandering ways improved.

I have a new 6108 fuel pump and am hopeful that when I
get it into service the nice insulated fuel line from
JimB at COOP will then fit.

Wiring is a mess but lights and horn work. For some
reason, it seems that a blower fan runs continuously.
No dash AC; coach has apparently been in an accident
as the condenser coil is pushed in. I don't know if
the clearance lights work; coach was hit by hail a
few months back. Maybe just replacing the red and
amber lenses will do the job.

Things are looking up and I am truly thankful!


* * * * * * * * * * * *
* D C "Mac" Macdonald *
* Amateur Radio K2GKK *
* USAF & FAA, Retired *
** Oklahoma City, OK **
* * "The Money Pit" * *
* * ex-Palm Beach, 76 *
* * * * * * * * * * * *

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Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106634 is a reply to message #106627] Wed, 24 November 2010 18:05 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
Mac, the Highway Safety Folks mandated that the heater blower run at slow
speed all the time to insure all who travel our highways and byways share
equally in all the auto exhaust present. There is a couple of quick fixes
for that. One, disconnect the wire and tape it off, thereby eliminating the
slow speed altogether, and Two, putting a switch in same wire and locating
it somewhere near your hand so it can be switched on when you want it to
run.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403

On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 8:04 AM, D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com>wrote:

>
> This is probably of little interest to the group,
> but I'm going to post it anyway. If nothing else,
> I need to shed some credit on C B Wood for his
> assistance.
>
> After I went to the storage lot on a beautifully
> warm day on Saturday, I had resolved to do something
> about the strong smell of raw gasoline whenever the
> motor was running. I lifted the hatch and got the
> motor running (with considerable pumping of the
> go pedal). I saw that the fuel line to the carb
> suddenly got very shiny! Oh, oh! Fuel leak, big
> time. Okay, well, I'll tackle that on Sunday. C B
> offered to come over and help, saying that it should
> be about a half hour job. Yeah, right! After I got
> the carb end off and he got the fuel pump end off,
> we found that there was no way to put on the Jim B
> insulated, stainless steel braided line in its place!
>
> OOPS! Fuel pump has THREE fittings on its top;
> apparently an erroneous replacement.
>
> The above pretty much shot THREE hours all to heck.
>
> The only alternative is to get another "RUBBER" hose
> to use with the existing fittings. I got those on
> Sunday afternoon at nearby AutoZone. Off to the
> storage lot on Monday. I guess I spent about 45
> minutes figuring out how to thread the new line
> down through all the other hoses and wiring bundles
> to the fuel pump. Luckily, the fitting went into
> the pump outlet quite easily and after getting it
> finger tight, it took about 1/4 with the flarenut
> wrench to snug it down. Voila! Engine runs with
> NO raw fuel to be seen.
>
> I left my pickup at the storage lot and drove the
> coach home (about 2 miles). In the afternoon, I
> put a charger on the house battery (big monster
> behind the Onan). After about 1/2 hour of a 6 Amp
> charge, the genny started right up.
>
> Hallelujah! BOTH roof ACs working and blowing cold!
> Toaster oven caused an RPM drop when turned on for
> just a few seconds. Norcold fridge (12VDC/120VAC
> and propane) turns on, but not sure of its operation.
>
> Next steps are to get brakes working better and then
> try to get the coach's wandering ways improved.
>
> I have a new 6108 fuel pump and am hopeful that when I
> get it into service the nice insulated fuel line from
> JimB at COOP will then fit.
>
> Wiring is a mess but lights and horn work. For some
> reason, it seems that a blower fan runs continuously.
> No dash AC; coach has apparently been in an accident
> as the condenser coil is pushed in. I don't know if
> the clearance lights work; coach was hit by hail a
> few months back. Maybe just replacing the red and
> amber lenses will do the job.
>
> Things are looking up and I am truly thankful!
>
>
> * * * * * * * * * * * *
> * D C "Mac" Macdonald *
> * Amateur Radio K2GKK *
> * USAF & FAA, Retired *
> ** Oklahoma City, OK **
> * * "The Money Pit" * *
> * * ex-Palm Beach, 76 *
> * * * * * * * * * * * *
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106657 is a reply to message #106634] Wed, 24 November 2010 20:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Mr ERFisher is currently offline  Mr ERFisher   United States
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
Senior Member
The best thing to do is to remove the yellow wire from the resistor array
and use it to power the vacuum booster pump

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4675&cat=3471

gets rid of the low position, and delivers ACC voltage to the pump



gene



On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 4:05 PM, James Hupy <jamesh1296@gmail.com> wrote:

> Mac, the Highway Safety Folks mandated that the heater blower run at slow
> speed all the time to insure all who travel our highways and byways share
> equally in all the auto exhaust present. There is a couple of quick fixes
> for that. One, disconnect the wire and tape it off, thereby eliminating the
> slow speed altogether, and Two, putting a switch in same wire and locating
> it somewhere near your hand so it can be switched on when you want it to
> run.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Or
> 78 Royale 403
>
> On Wed, Nov 24, 2010 at 8:04 AM, D C *Mac* Macdonald <k2gkk@hotmail.com
> >wrote:
>
> >
> > This is probably of little interest to the group,
> > but I'm going to post it anyway. If nothing else,
> > I need to shed some credit on C B Wood for his
> > assistance.
> >
> > After I went to the storage lot on a beautifully
> > warm day on Saturday, I had resolved to do something
> > about the strong smell of raw gasoline whenever the
> > motor was running. I lifted the hatch and got the
> > motor running (with considerable pumping of the
> > go pedal). I saw that the fuel line to the carb
> > suddenly got very shiny! Oh, oh! Fuel leak, big
> > time. Okay, well, I'll tackle that on Sunday. C B
> > offered to come over and help, saying that it should
> > be about a half hour job. Yeah, right! After I got
> > the carb end off and he got the fuel pump end off,
> > we found that there was no way to put on the Jim B
> > insulated, stainless steel braided line in its place!
> >
> > OOPS! Fuel pump has THREE fittings on its top;
> > apparently an erroneous replacement.
> >
> > The above pretty much shot THREE hours all to heck.
> >
> > The only alternative is to get another "RUBBER" hose
> > to use with the existing fittings. I got those on
> > Sunday afternoon at nearby AutoZone. Off to the
> > storage lot on Monday. I guess I spent about 45
> > minutes figuring out how to thread the new line
> > down through all the other hoses and wiring bundles
> > to the fuel pump. Luckily, the fitting went into
> > the pump outlet quite easily and after getting it
> > finger tight, it took about 1/4 with the flarenut
> > wrench to snug it down. Voila! Engine runs with
> > NO raw fuel to be seen.
> >
> > I left my pickup at the storage lot and drove the
> > coach home (about 2 miles). In the afternoon, I
> > put a charger on the house battery (big monster
> > behind the Onan). After about 1/2 hour of a 6 Amp
> > charge, the genny started right up.
> >
> > Hallelujah! BOTH roof ACs working and blowing cold!
> > Toaster oven caused an RPM drop when turned on for
> > just a few seconds. Norcold fridge (12VDC/120VAC
> > and propane) turns on, but not sure of its operation.
> >
> > Next steps are to get brakes working better and then
> > try to get the coach's wandering ways improved.
> >
> > I have a new 6108 fuel pump and am hopeful that when I
> > get it into service the nice insulated fuel line from
> > JimB at COOP will then fit.
> >
> > Wiring is a mess but lights and horn work. For some
> > reason, it seems that a blower fan runs continuously.
> > No dash AC; coach has apparently been in an accident
> > as the condenser coil is pushed in. I don't know if
> > the clearance lights work; coach was hit by hail a
> > few months back. Maybe just replacing the red and
> > amber lenses will do the job.
> >
> > Things are looking up and I am truly thankful!
> >
> >
> > * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > * D C "Mac" Macdonald *
> > * Amateur Radio K2GKK *
> > * USAF & FAA, Retired *
> > ** Oklahoma City, OK **
> > * * "The Money Pit" * *
> > * * ex-Palm Beach, 76 *
> > * * * * * * * * * * * *
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > GMCnet mailing list
> > List Information and Subscription Options:
> > http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
> >
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>



--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106707 is a reply to message #106657] Thu, 25 November 2010 09:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry is currently offline  Larry   United States
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
Senior Member
Mr ERFisher wrote on Wed, 24 November 2010 20:16

The best thing to do is to remove the yellow wire from the resistor array
and use it to power the vacuum booster pump

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4675&cat=3471

gets rid of the low position, and delivers ACC voltage to the pump

gene


What a GREAT idea...where were you when I needed power for my PowerMaster?


Larry Smile
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106715 is a reply to message #106627] Thu, 25 November 2010 12:34 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Luvn737s is currently offline  Luvn737s   United States
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
Senior Member
Are you saying you couldn't get the braided insulated fuel line mounted to the carb, but you could get a rubber line? I'm intersted in that. Can you go back over that part of the story?

Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106718 is a reply to message #106715] Thu, 25 November 2010 13:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
k2gkk is currently offline  k2gkk   United States
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
Senior Member

That's what I said. An apparently non-standard
mechanical fuel pump was installed as a replacement
by a previous owner. The one that's in there is
the one with THREE fittings on the top. They are
in such a position that the insulated fuel line
from Jim Bounds at COOP cannot be installed.

That is what you get if you go to the auto parts
store and request the fuel pump for a Toronado of
the correct year that has air conditioning. I was
told here on this list several months ago that you
need to get the one for a Toronado WITHOUT A/C.

The leaking "rubber" fuel line was installed between
steel lines at the fuel pump and carburetor inlet.

When C B Wood and I found that the Jim B fuel line
(he brought his and it matches mine) would not fit,
I simply replaced the "rubber" (neoprene?, I don't
really know the material) line with similar line
that is rated for high pressure in fuel injection
service.

I am NOT worried about its servicability. When I
put a proper fuel pump on, then I will see if the
JimB/COOP steel-braided, Teflon-lined fuel line
will fit.


* "An unarmed man can but flee *
* from evil. Evil can NEVER be *
* overcome by flight FROM it." *


~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~





----------------------------------------
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: Acrosport2@hotmail.com
> Date: Thu, 25 Nov 2010 12:34:08 -0600
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit"
>
>
>
> Are you saying you couldn't get the braided insulated fuel line mounted to the carb, but you could get a rubber line? I'm intersted in that. Can you go back over that part of the story?
> --
> Randy
> 1973 26' Painted Desert
> Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
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Re: [GMCnet] Latest in the "saga" of "The Money Pit" [message #106764 is a reply to message #106707] Fri, 26 November 2010 02:14 Go to previous message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
Larry wrote on Thu, 25 November 2010 09:13

Mr ERFisher wrote on Wed, 24 November 2010 20:16

The best thing to do is to remove the yellow wire from the resistor array
and use it to power the vacuum booster pump

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=4675&cat=3471

gets rid of the low position, and delivers ACC voltage to the pump

gene


What a GREAT idea...where were you when I needed power for my PowerMaster?


Why didn't you ask?
I did the same thing to power my vacuum pump several years ago.

Hi Larry.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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