| Replacing rubber between window and alu. molding [message #106322] |
Sun, 21 November 2010 04:02  |
Jeroen Mutsaers
Messages: 10
Registered: March 2010
Location: Oisterwijk Netherlands
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Hi, just one more question for you pro's on our forum.
Because of winter is coming in the netherlands i'm trying to get my motorhome as leakproof as possible.
After replacing the window felts (thanks for all the hints on this one !!) i'm up to the point that water is seaping through the molding and the fixed windows....
Trying to peel out the window rubber didn't work, just using pile's of silicone is not really the way i would like to go. Would like to get the rubbers out and just silicone nicely. But that doesn't seem to work without taking out all of the window including molding ?
i tried uploading a photo to clarify, if you follow this link
who can help me out ?
living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful
#1973 palm beach (semi restored)
#1968 dodge charger
#1972 buick le sabre
#1969 plymouth road runner
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| Re: [GMCnet] Replacing rubber between window and alu. molding [message #106334 is a reply to message #106322] |
Sun, 21 November 2010 08:41  |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
Jim Bounds guys down at the COOP in Orlando re-sealed mine this past summer.
Their procedure is:
1) Scrape out the sealing tape to a depth of 2-3 mm from the edge of the
window frame.
2) Run tape around the window 1 mm from the frame.
3) Cut the very end of a new caulking gun nozzle off at a 45° angle so that
the hole is as small as possible.
3) Using black RTV silicone; fill the gap created by scraping out the
sealing tape. Do not use "piles of silicone" just enough to fill the gap.
4) When the gap is filled all the way around the window use a wet finger
smooth the RTV and give it a slight concave finish.
5) As soon as you have finished smoothing the RTV remove the tape by pulling
it 90° to the side of the GMC. As you pull it off be careful not to pull the
RTV out of the gap.
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Jeroen Mutsaers
Sent: Sunday, November 21, 2010 4:02 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Replacing rubber between window and alu. molding
Hi, just one more question for you pro's on our forum.
Because of winter is coming in the netherlands i'm trying to get my
motorhome as leakproof as possible.
After replacing the window felts (thanks for all the hints on this one !!)
i'm up to the point that water is seaping through the molding and the fixed
windows....
Trying to peel out the window rubber didn't work, just using pile's of
silicone is not really the way i would like to go. Would like to get the
rubbers out and just silicone nicely. But that doesn't seem to work without
taking out all of the window including molding ?
i tried uploading a photo to clarify, if you follow this link
who can help me out ?
--
living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful
#1973 palm beach (semi restored)
#1968 dodge charger
#1972 buick le sabre
#1969 plymouth road runner
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GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
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_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
List Information and Subscription Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: Replacing rubber between window and alu. molding [message #106423 is a reply to message #106322] |
Mon, 22 November 2010 01:55 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Jeroen Mutsaers wrote on Sun, 21 November 2010 02:02 |
Hi, just one more question for you pro's on our forum.
Because of winter is coming in the netherlands i'm trying to get my motorhome as leakproof as possible.
After replacing the window felts (thanks for all the hints on this one !!) i'm up to the point that water is seaping through the molding and the fixed windows....
Trying to peel out the window rubber didn't work, just using pile's of silicone is not really the way i would like to go. Would like to get the rubbers out and just silicone nicely. But that doesn't seem to work without taking out all of the window including molding ?
i tried uploading a photo to clarify, if you follow this link
<http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/8337/fotojc.jpg>
who can help me out ?
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The picture looks like the fixed window has shifted slightly in the frame. I was
able to slide the window back into position by tapping with a hammer (!!!)
using a 2x4 block to keep from breaking the glass.
I have read about a slower (less impact) method using plywood and heat from the
sun. This works on the '75 and newer windows... not sure how well it would work
with the older style. You may need to modify the "instructions" for your needs.
The basic idea is: Start with your big windows. Cut the plywood panel slightly
wider than the siding window. Bow the panel and put it inside the frame pressing
on the "fixed" window. Leaving it in the sun provides the warmth to let the
fixed window move. When back in place, the "instructions" say to put a screw in
the frame to hold the window from moving again. Take the plywood panel to
the next window...
The only time I replaced the fixed window rubber seal was when I had the windows out.
I only did the rear (bedroom) windows... from the amount of work, I found other
methods to seal the front windows.
Rob gave good instructions for sealing AROUND the frames. Not sure of the
silly-cone... I think there are better sealants for this use. Masking is a good
idea no matter what sealant is used.
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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