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replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103895] Sat, 23 October 2010 10:22 Go to next message
Jeroen Mutsaers is currently offline  Jeroen Mutsaers   Netherlands
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Location: Oisterwijk Netherlands
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Hi,

still quite new on the forum but living in the netherlands makes easy stuff often difficult.... so here's a question maybe someone can help me with.
I just purchased enought window rubbers (same as the vintagetrailsupply.com) for my sliding windows, so front side and rear. I just can't seem to find an example on how to replace these, can i leave the windows in and remove the old (steel) ones and slide the new ones in and just use some adhesive to make them stick....?
or is it easy to take the sliding windows out..

(sorry if my english is not to easy to read but i'm dutch Smile )

thanks,

jeroen


living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful #1973 palm beach (semi restored) #1968 dodge charger #1972 buick le sabre #1969 plymouth road runner
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103898 is a reply to message #103895] Sat, 23 October 2010 10:44 Go to previous messageGo to next message
cjonesgo is currently offline  cjonesgo   United States
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Not sure if this is what your after, but this is the writeup I have been following for the rubber "lock bead" replacement.

http://www.gmccoop.com/new_page_9.htm

It's been super helpful.
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103900 is a reply to message #103895] Sat, 23 October 2010 10:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mike miller   United States
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Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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Jeroen Mutsaers wrote on Sat, 23 October 2010 08:22

...
I just purchased enought window rubbers (same as the vintagetrailsupply.com) for my sliding windows, so front side and rear. I just can't seem to find an example on how to replace these, can i leave the windows in and remove the old (steel) ones and slide the new ones in and just use some adhesive to make them stick....?
or is it easy to take the sliding windows out..


Jeroen,

There are two types of windows installed originally. I think the change over was around 1975. The rubber and replacement procedures are different.

SO... what year is your coach?

For info:

The early windows where very much like the cockpit windows. The sliding window is toward the front and was outside of the stationary window. To open or close the window from the inside, you HAVE to open the screen.

Newer windows have the sliding pane toward the rear and inside of the stationary window. They can be opened and closed from the inside WITHOUT moving the screen.


Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo' http://m000035.blogspot.com
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103901 is a reply to message #103895] Sat, 23 October 2010 11:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jeroen Mutsaers is currently offline  Jeroen Mutsaers   Netherlands
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Registered: March 2010
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just made some photo's, is a 1973 originally palm beach.

but don;t know how to upload them...


living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful #1973 palm beach (semi restored) #1968 dodge charger #1972 buick le sabre #1969 plymouth road runner
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103902 is a reply to message #103895] Sat, 23 October 2010 11:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jeroen Mutsaers is currently offline  Jeroen Mutsaers   Netherlands
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Location: Oisterwijk Netherlands
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i'm talking about the window felt ,so the U shaped rubber, which originally had the steel core in it...
i now purchased new all rubber, but don't have a clue how to put it in.....

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Airstream_Motorhome_Window_Channel_p/vts-278.htm

thanks for all the fast reply's so far, any help is usefull

jeroen


living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful #1973 palm beach (semi restored) #1968 dodge charger #1972 buick le sabre #1969 plymouth road runner

[Updated on: Sat, 23 October 2010 14:27]

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Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103940 is a reply to message #103902] Sat, 23 October 2010 19:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
mike miller   United States
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Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
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Jeroen Mutsaers wrote on Sat, 23 October 2010 09:21

i'm talking about the window felt ,so the U shaped rubber, which originally had the steel core in it...
i now purchased new all rubber, but don't have a clue how to put it in.....

http://www.vintagetrailersupply.com/Airstream_Motorhome_Window_Channel_p/vts-278.htm

thanks for all the fast reply's so far, any help is usefull

jeroen


I bought the rubber/felt from Jim Bounds at the GMC CoOp in Florida. <http://gmccoop.com/> It came with instructions. I do not have the instructions anymore....

IIRC (If I Remember Correctly) you pull out the old metal/felt strips and the non-stationary window will be loose enough to slide the new felt in place. Be sure to cut drain holes/slits to match the ones in the frames. The stuff from Jim B doesn't NEED to be glued in place but a little bit on the "upper-top-rear" could be helpful.

OBTW (Oh By The Way), I would question the "1973 Palm Beach." GM didn't start making the Palm Beach until 1975. It came with a green based exterior and a GREEN plaid interior.

A lot people seem to think ALL GMC motorhomes are Palm Beaches... It might be due to almost all of the Hot Wheels toy motorhomes where labeled as Palm Beaches! I think Barbie's pink or yellow motorhomes where also labeled as Palm Beaches.

If your 1973 has a green based interior, I would suspect it is a Sequoia. The other possibilities are Canyonlands, Painted Desert or Glacier. See: <http://www.bdub.net/publications/1973%20GMC%20Motorhome/1973_GMC.htm>

Granted, you can call it anything YOU want to call it... it is yours!

Good luck on your windows.


Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo' http://m000035.blogspot.com
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103963 is a reply to message #103940] Sun, 24 October 2010 02:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jeroen Mutsaers is currently offline  Jeroen Mutsaers   Netherlands
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Location: Oisterwijk Netherlands
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Junior Member
Mike thanks again, will not be to difficult to get this task completed.

The RV has been completely painted, new frame rails and complete new interiour, why do i think it's a palm beach.. all the paint underneath is the typical green. But it is a 1973, if no palm beaches were built that year it just cannot be a palm beach, you kinda tickled my phantasy so i will start my quest to see what it originally was

will keep you updated on the progress, is there any place for photo material on these projects on this site ? (i know the gmc photosite)


living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful #1973 palm beach (semi restored) #1968 dodge charger #1972 buick le sabre #1969 plymouth road runner
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #103968 is a reply to message #103895] Sun, 24 October 2010 07:57 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Hardie Johnson is currently offline  Hardie Johnson   United States
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Location: Raleigh NC
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I installed the felts from Jim Bounds. It was tedious, but very satisfying. You do not have to take anything apart. You may want to replace the front slider windor latches at the same time; Jim had those parts, too.
By moving the windows back and forth you can pull out the old stuff, starting with the top. Then you do the bottoms. Be careful, tempered glass is tough, but does not take well to sharp objects. Clean out the channels with a narrow wire brush. If your frames have been painted already you should shield them with masking tape to avoid scratching the finish.
Start reinstalling the bottoms first. Slide the felts as far back as you can under the window. then move the window forward to grab the other end and pull it on through to the back. You can work at it until the felts are all the way under the glass.
Then set the bottom with a hammer and a (wooden) wedge. Work the felts in up the vertical side and the across the top. Be sure the felts are NOT in tension or they will eventually pull loose. The top is more difficult and you may have to just piece it in. If you have the end cut to the right length you can work it around.
You may have to glue the ends in place, but not the entire length.
There are drain slots in the frame where you need to open up the felts. I used a soldering pencil to melt through, you can also cut the felts there.
Good luck.


Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #104090 is a reply to message #103895] Mon, 25 October 2010 02:20 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jeroen Mutsaers is currently offline  Jeroen Mutsaers   Netherlands
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Thanks for all your help, just finished one side of the RV (started to rain....we live in the netherlands Wink )

but works perfect, hopefully can finish the rest this week. now 1 thing left to do, trying to find an irritating leuk that results in a drip next to rear view mirror (if you have seen this before and knows where it comes from....please help me out )



living on the edge is dangerous but the view is beautiful #1973 palm beach (semi restored) #1968 dodge charger #1972 buick le sabre #1969 plymouth road runner
Re: [GMCnet] replacing sliding windows rubber [message #104091 is a reply to message #104090] Mon, 25 October 2010 02:36 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ljdavick is currently offline  ljdavick   United States
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I have a drip at about the midpoint of the passenger windshield that I attribute to the clearance lights. Northern California doesn't see that much rain, and I think we met our quota today, so it's down on the list of things to fix.

Larry Davick
Fremont, California
The Mystery Machine
'76 (ish) Palm Beach
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1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
Re: replacing sliding windows rubber [message #104103 is a reply to message #104090] Mon, 25 October 2010 08:52 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Jeroen Mutsaers wrote on Mon, 25 October 2010 03:20

Thanks for all your help, just finished one side of the RV (started to rain....we live in the netherlands Wink )

but works perfect, hopefully can finish the rest this week. now 1 thing left to do, trying to find an irritating leuk that results in a drip next to rear view mirror (if you have seen this before and knows where it comes from....please help me out )



Jeroen,

I was plagued by leaks in this area for a couple of years. They got worse when I had both windshields replaced. I had even replaced and resealed the clearance lights.

At the advice of another owner, I cleaned out the area above the windshield gasket and the roof overhang and resealed it with a Loctite (Henkel) product called PL Black. It is the only one of the PL sealants that is black. It is called Roof and Flashing sealant. One 10oz. (295ml) tube was plenty. Be very ready for a mess. This stuff is really sticky.

The caulk that was filling that area was much to easy to remove.

Now, I don't have to put the rain cover on the steering wheel and GPS (under the mirror) when I park.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] replacing sliding windows rubber [message #104108 is a reply to message #104103] Mon, 25 October 2010 09:50 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
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Jeroen & Matt,

I hope Matt's not referring to the same PL urethane caulk I used for the
same purpose (and recommended widely). Mine eventually hardened and shrank
to the point that it looked bad and stopped sealing the leaks. I then
replaced it with a 3M black butyl caulk which doesn't harden. That was a
couple of years ago and it still looks and works as well as the day I put it
around the windshield. I think our auto dealers call it "rope caulk".

Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com



On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 9:52 AM, Matt Colie <mcolie@chartermi.net> wrote:

> ...
>
> Jeroen Mutsaers wrote on Mon, 25 October 2010 03:20
> > but works perfect, hopefully can finish the rest this week. now 1 thing
> left to do, trying to find an irritating leuk that results in a drip next to
> rear view mirror (if you have seen this before and knows where it comes
> from....please help me out )
>
> Jeroen,
>
> I was plagued by leaks in this area for a couple of years. They got worse
> when I had both windshields replaced. I had even replaced and resealed the
> clearance lights.
>
> At the advice of another owner, I cleaned out the area above the windshield
> gasket and the roof overhang and resealed it with a Loctite (Henkel)
> product called PL Black. It is the only one of the PL sealants that is
> black. It is called Roof and Flashing sealant. One 10oz. (295ml) tube was
> plenty. Be very ready for a mess. This stuff is really sticky.
> ...
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] replacing sliding windows rubber [message #104116 is a reply to message #104108] Mon, 25 October 2010 10:22 Go to previous message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Ken Henderson wrote on Mon, 25 October 2010 10:50

Jeroen & Matt,

I hope Matt's not referring to the same PL urethane caulk I used for the same purpose (and recommended widely). Mine eventually hardened and shrank to the point that it looked bad and stopped sealing the leaks. I then replaced it with a 3M black butyl caulk which doesn't harden. That was a couple of years ago and it still looks and works as well as the day I put it around the windshield. I think our auto dealers call it "rope caulk".

Ken H.


This is an interesting. I have places outside the house that I have put PL black that are still good. BUT - I live 10* north of you and my coach parks facing pretty much north. Maybe I am just a few years behind on the aging curve.

I just hope, that if it does go bad, it is as easy to remove as the last failed sealant.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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