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Engine Water Light [message #100687] Wed, 22 September 2010 15:45 Go to next message
Oldngray is currently offline  Oldngray   United States
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Just finished rerouting my hot Water heater Hoses away from the Valve Covers and the two short ones into a bit longer from the Block to those heater hoses. I did drain a small amount of Coolant in the process but not a gallon. When I started the Engine to check for leaks, got it up to operating temp and the Tell Tale light came on. It is "Engine Water Light", added coolant to the overflow tank but the light stays on. The temp gauge reads normal 185-190.
Any suggestions?


Richard MacDonald Punta Gorda, Florida Sold our TZE April 2015
Re: Engine Water Light [message #100689 is a reply to message #100687] Wed, 22 September 2010 15:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ron is currently offline  Ron   United States
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Richard..
You may have filled the overflow bottle but not the radiator.. May take a couple of heat and cool cycles for the radiator to draw in enough coolant.. Keep an eye on the overflow level..
Ron


now a P.O.
Conifer, CO
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Water Light [message #100692 is a reply to message #100689] Wed, 22 September 2010 16:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Yes, but a note of caution. Don't take the radiator cap off when the engine
is fully warmed up. You are likely to recieve a scalding bath if you do.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 1:48 PM, rhusak <rhusak@compuserve.com> wrote:

>
>
> Richard..
> You may have filled the overflow bottle but not the radiator.. May take a
> couple of heat and cool cycles for the radiator to draw in enough coolant..
> Keep an eye on the overflow level..
> Ron
> --
> now a P.O.
> Conifer, CO
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Re: Engine Water Light [message #100695 is a reply to message #100687] Wed, 22 September 2010 16:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Oldngray is currently offline  Oldngray   United States
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The engine has cooled now and the overflow tank level has not changed, still at hot level.
Thanks for the input, ref the cap, Heck, I tried when it was cold and my hands are not strong enuf to move it.



Richard MacDonald Punta Gorda, Florida Sold our TZE April 2015
new cap [message #100733 is a reply to message #100695] Wed, 22 September 2010 23:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
bukzin is currently offline  bukzin   United States
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At one of the rallies someone (Steve F. maybe) said
the radiator cap should be replaced every few years or so.

Never heard they may go bad so quick but an easy/cheap
thing to do.


Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] new cap [message #100742 is a reply to message #100733] Thu, 23 September 2010 00:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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On Sep 22, 2010, at 11:09 PM, Richard wrote:

>
>
> At one of the rallies someone (Steve F. maybe) said
> the radiator cap should be replaced every few years or so.
>
> Never heard they may go bad so quick but an easy/cheap
> thing to do.
>
> --
> Bukzin
> 1977 Palm Beach
> Chico California

I have brought my tester to rallies and typically have found that about 7% of the ones I test are bad. They typically stop holding to rated pressure after about 2 years.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM


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Re: [GMCnet] new cap [message #100744 is a reply to message #100742] Thu, 23 September 2010 00:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ljdavick is currently offline  ljdavick   United States
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Emery - would that be 70%?

Larry Davick
The Mystery Machine

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Larry Davick
A Mystery Machine
1976(ish) Palm Beach
Fremont, Ca
Howell EFI + EBL + Electronic Dizzy
Re: [GMCnet] new cap [message #100755 is a reply to message #100744] Thu, 23 September 2010 06:10 Go to previous messageGo to next message
emerystora is currently offline  emerystora   United States
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On Sep 23, 2010, at 12:48 AM, Larry Davick wrote:

> Emery - would that be 70%?
>
> Larry Davick
> The Mystery Machine

Yes, that was a typo. I meant to say 75%.

Emery Stora
77 Kingsley
Santa Fe, NM


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Re: Engine Water Light [message #100759 is a reply to message #100687] Thu, 23 September 2010 06:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Oldngray is currently offline  Oldngray   United States
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The Coolant level in thee overflow tank is back to normal now. Started the engine and no light. Thanks for the help.



Richard MacDonald Punta Gorda, Florida Sold our TZE April 2015
Re: [GMCnet] new cap [message #100767 is a reply to message #100733] Thu, 23 September 2010 08:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Steven Ferguson is currently offline  Steven Ferguson   United States
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That may have been me. I have a cooling systems presentation and when
I hear something inportant like that (results from Emery's testing) I
steal the info and add it to my talk.

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 9:09 PM, Richard <bukzin@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> At one of the rallies someone (Steve F. maybe) said
> the radiator cap should be replaced every few years or so.
>
> Never heard they may go bad so quick but an easy/cheap
> thing to do.
>
> --
> Bukzin
> 1977 Palm Beach
> Chico California
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> List Information and Subscription Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>



--
Steve Ferguson
Sierra Vista, AZ
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Re: Engine Water Light [message #100773 is a reply to message #100759] Thu, 23 September 2010 09:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
MikeT   United States
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Richard,

What was the fix? Not seeing that in the responses.


Mike Thomas Marine City, MI 77 ex Palm Beach
Re: Engine Water Light [message #100775 is a reply to message #100773] Thu, 23 September 2010 09:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Oldngray is currently offline  Oldngray   United States
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MikeT wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 10:32

Richard,

What was the fix? Not seeing that in the responses.



Just filled the overflow tank to the "Hot" line and then let it cool down overnight. The overflow tank was at the "Cold" mark this morning. When I started the engine and let it get to normal temp (185-190) the light did not come on. So the system fixed itself. I love this Coach.


Richard MacDonald Punta Gorda, Florida Sold our TZE April 2015
Re: Engine Water Light [message #100788 is a reply to message #100775] Thu, 23 September 2010 10:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
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Location: Chandler, AZ
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Oldngray wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 08:39

MikeT wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 10:32

Richard,

What was the fix? Not seeing that in the responses.



Just filled the overflow tank to the "Hot" line and then let it cool down overnight. The overflow tank was at the "Cold" mark this morning. When I started the engine and let it get to normal temp (185-190) the light did not come on. So the system fixed itself. I love this Coach.



It can take several hot/cold cycles to fully fill the radiator--you may need to put some more in after a few starts.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Water Light [message #100796 is a reply to message #100788] Thu, 23 September 2010 11:02 Go to previous messageGo to next message
k2gkk is currently offline  k2gkk   United States
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And you DEFINITELY want to have your radiator/cooling system
totally full! Any air in the system is likely to have one or
both of the following results: poorer or inadequate cooling
and increased corrosion in the system!

I would also suggest that you totally drain, flush, and refill
the cooling system at least every three or four years. While
anti-freeze itself doesn't "wear out" the effectiveness of the
anti-corrosion ingredients is reputed to decrease with age,
regardless of mileage driven; sort of akin to the ways that
our tires deteriorate with age as well as use.

~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~ Mac Macdonald ~
~ Hamcall K2GKK ~
~ Oklahoma City ~
~~ "Money Pit" ~~
~ '76 ex - P.B. ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


* "An unarmed man can but flee *
* from evil. Evil can NEVER be *
* overcome by flight FROM it." *





To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
From: NEXT2POOL@AOL.COM
Date: Thu, 23 Sep 2010 10:40:02 -0500
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Engine Water Light
__________

Oldngray wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 08:39

**********
[MikeT wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 10:32]

[Richard,]

[What was the fix? Not seeing that in the responses.]

**********

Just filled the overflow tank to the "Hot" line and then
let it cool down overnight. The overflow tank was at the
"Cold" mark this morning. When I started the engine and
let it get to normal temp (185-190) the light did not
come on. So the system fixed itself. I love this Coach.
__________

It can take several hot/cold cycles to fully fill the
radiator--you may need to put some more in after a
few starts.
--
Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ

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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Water Light [message #100802 is a reply to message #100773] Thu, 23 September 2010 12:27 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Mike, what happens is, when the coolant is heated by the engine, it expands
and pressure increases in the radiator to the point that it lifts the spring
loaded plunger in the radiator cap, and coolant can travel to the expansion
tank. After the engine is turned off, the coolant temperature lowers and the
excess coolant is returned back to the radiator by the combination of lower
pressure in the radiator and atmospheric pressure acting on the coolant in
the overflow tank, which has an atmospheric vent. After several heating and
cooling cycles, the radiator fill level stabilizes and the overflow varies
between the HOT and COLD lines on the expansion tank. At this point the
sending unit for the idiot light is covered at all times by the coolant in
the radiator, it again becomes an insulator and the light goes out. A simple
system when you know how it is supposed to work. If you are having to
constantly add coolant to the expansion tank, and there is no evidence of
coolant loss throughout the system, it is an indication that coolant is
escaping by entering the combustion chambers due to a blown head gasket,
cracked head, or cylinder block. White smoke out the tailpipe after the
engine is fully warmed up is a good indication also. Definitely not what
what you want to see.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403

On Thu, Sep 23, 2010 at 7:32 AM, Thomas Mike <mthomas@wideopenwest.com>wrote:

>
>
> Richard,
>
> What was the fix? Not seeing that in the responses.
> --
> Mike Thomas
> Troy, MI
> 77 Brown Palm Beach, thought it was an Eleganza II
> and 77 Purple Palm Beach
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Water Light [message #100949 is a reply to message #100802] Sat, 25 September 2010 09:06 Go to previous message
bukzin is currently offline  bukzin   United States
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[quote title=James Hupy wrote on Thu, 23 September 2010 10:27]Mike, what happens is, when the coolant is heated by the engine, it expands
and pressure increases in the radiator to the point that it lifts the spring
loaded plunger in the radiator cap, and coolant can travel to the expansion
tank. After the engine is turned off, the coolant temperature lowers and the
excess coolant is returned back to the radiator by the combination of lower
pressure in the radiator and atmospheric pressure acting on the coolant in
the overflow tank, which has an atmospheric vent. After several heating and
cooling cycles, the radiator fill level stabilizes and the overflow varies
between the HOT and COLD lines on the expansion tank. At this point the
sending unit for the idiot light is covered at all times by the coolant in
the radiator, it again becomes an insulator and the light goes out. A simple
system when you know how it is supposed to work. If you are having to
constantly add coolant to the expansion tank, and there is no evidence of
coolant loss throughout the system, it is an indication that coolant is
escaping by entering the combustion chambers due to a blown head gasket,
cracked head, or cylinder block. White smoke out the tailpipe after the
engine is fully warmed up is a good indication also. Definitely not what
what you want to see.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 Royale 403


Jim, That was/is an excellent write up on how the system works.

VERY helpful for us non-gearheads. Thank you and keep them
coming.




Bukzin
1977 Palm Beach
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