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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328517 is a reply to message #328511] Mon, 22 January 2018 19:39 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
Senior Member
Carl,

Pay 'tention to Rick's advice. He saved me from having to type about the
same comments 1-handed.

Here's the link to my bottom-up installation album:

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/bottom-up-engine-installation/p10678-engine-hoist-2c-pull-engine-out-the-bottom.html

Just a few comments (since I've done some variation of R&R 6-7+ times):

1. I don't like to remove the rear mounting bolts from the cross member --
they're too easy to drop & too difficult to re-align. The mounting plate
can't be removed nor installed with the engine installed anyway, so just
loosen the 2 cross member bolts, remove the 2 passenger- and 1 driver-side
bolts, and tilt it to the rear.

2. IMHO, re-installing the 1 upper rear mounting bolt on the driver's side
is the worst part of the whole R&R -- unless you do as I've done: With the
engine out, lift the carpet on the lower step riser, then drill a hole in
the riser in line with that hole in the bracket. Use a small hole saw to
enlarge the hole to accept a 9/16" socket. Now you can R&R that single
bolt from inside VERY easily. A simple sheet metal plate and caulk will
seal the hole when you're done. Manny uses an air ratchet to R&R it from
underneath in "no time"; it always takes me at least 30 minutes.

3. Don't try to use a carb flange lift plate as shown in my photos. The
engine's got to be tilted at least 45*, and that's about the maximum that
plate will allow with NO weight on the rear hoist. A chain between two
intake manifold bolts toward the front of the engine allows better control
-- and minimizes the "twisting" of the engine shown in my photos to clear
the front cross member.

4. If you possibly can, use at least one chain hoist, at the rear, for the
installation. When you're positioning the rear of the engine, a
come-a-long's movement steps are ALWAYS either "just too little" or "just
too much". The chain hoist's infinitesimal adjustability is greatly
appreciated.

5. The "log chain" shown & mentioned in one of the photos is something I
wouldn't get beneath the engine without. Secure it around the two chassis
side rails and under the HEAVY drivetrain, without getting under there. A
stand or shoring instead will be a PITA to work around.

6. Jim Bounds got very upset with me about claiming I put that drivetrain
in in an hour -- seems folks then wanted to know why he charges for 30
hours. What's got to be remembered is that my 30-60 minutes is to raise it
from the ground -- Not to get it ready, and certainly NOT including
connecting ANYTHING! You're just getting started when it's in the hole.
:-)

Ken H.
​

On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 7:30 PM, Richard Denney wrote:

> Carl,
>
> Out the bottom is the best way--you can remove the engine, tranny, and
> final drive as a unit. If you don't pull the water pump, you just about
> have to turn it on end. Look for the photos KenH has posted of doing it in
> his shop, where he has a lowered work area under the front of his coach. If
> ​...
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach

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