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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328515 is a reply to message #328511] Mon, 22 January 2018 19:13 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Kosier is currently offline  Kosier   United States
Messages: 834
Registered: February 2008
Karma:
Senior Member
Rick,

If you ever work on a Cadillac motor, you'll throw rocks at an Oldsmobile.
LOL

Gary Kosier
77PB w/500Cad
Newark, Ohio

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Denney"
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2018 7:30 PM
To:
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal

> Carl,
>
> Out the bottom is the best way--you can remove the engine, tranny, and
> final drive as a unit. If you don't pull the water pump, you just about
> have to turn it on end. Look for the photos KenH has posted of doing it in
> his shop, where he has a lowered work area under the front of his coach.
> If
> you pull the water pump, you'll have a bit more space for the removal, but
> it means you have to install the water pump after reinstalling the engine.
> I'd rather install the water pump before run-in and then just leave it.
> The
> gantry you have to assemble over the hatch will need two lift points, one
> for the front of the engine and one for the back. That way you can finely
> adjust the tilt as you go.
>
> You should be able to get by with just loosening the rear motor mount, so
> that it can tilt back out of the way (which works better for later
> coaches--early coaches have less space there). The idea behind loosening
> them is so that you don't drop the bolts into the crossmember. But I still
> had to fish those bolts out of the crossmember.
>
> You can remove the AC compressor and hold it up under the cockpit floor
> using a strap. The mounting frame for the AC unit, which is designed to
> hold the landing gear of a 747, will also be in the way. That bracket, and
> to an even greater extent the power steering pump brackets are my reasons
> to explain why factory design isn't always to be revered. Both are horror
> stories, and the PS pump bracket even moreso. Take as many pictures of it
> as you can before you take it apart. Pictures, pictures, pictures. We used
> the picture of the distributor at its running angle.
>
> Bagging the bolts is a good idea, that I wish I'd done. Bag the bolts for
> the PS pump and the AC brackets in separate bags, too.
>
> When you separate the final drive from the transmission, grab the input
> spline on the final drive and wiggle it in and out. Axial play is supposed
> to be about 0.008"--which you should not be able to feel. I predict you
> will fill a definite play back and forth. If you do, replace or rebuild
> the
> final drive. Manny tells me that a worn final drive will damage the
> transmission. Mine had the same number of miles as yours. My coach is
> light. Hint, hint. We couldn't find a replacement final drive that didn't
> have as much play as mine did when we replaced the engine and transmission
> last April, so I replaced it when I did the one-ton front end in August.
> Manny ordered me to drive gently (and then wanted me to follow him as he
> punched through Atlanta on the I75 HOV lane at 70mph, ha!). I had him
> include a 3.21 in the crate with the front end.
>
> To R&R the engine, transmission and final drive as one unit, you may need
> more than 32 inches of clearance, but maybe not.
>
> Rick "who did the project at KenH's--certainly one of the most ideal
> places
> for a project like that, not least because of the expertise that comes
> with
> it" Denney
>
> On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 12:08 PM, Carl Stouffer
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks for all the tips and advice. Since my front
>> suspension/steering/brakes are all in good shape, I will not be going
>> through all the extra steps
>> to remove the front sub-frame, although I can see the advantages of doing
>> it that way.
>>
>> My plan, at this point, is to remove the engine/transmission/final drive
>> as a unit. Jim Decheine has done it this way as has (I believe) Ken
>> Henderson. Since my problem started with the transmission losing third
>> gear, I need to do the tranny as well. The drivetrain has 105,000 miles
>> on
>> it
>> and was going to be due for an overhaul soon anyway.
>>
>
>
>
> --
> '73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
> Northern Virginia
> Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
> _______________________________________________
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