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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328511 is a reply to message #328499] Mon, 22 January 2018 18:30 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Richard Denney is currently offline  Richard Denney   United States
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma:
Senior Member
Carl,

Out the bottom is the best way--you can remove the engine, tranny, and
final drive as a unit. If you don't pull the water pump, you just about
have to turn it on end. Look for the photos KenH has posted of doing it in
his shop, where he has a lowered work area under the front of his coach. If
you pull the water pump, you'll have a bit more space for the removal, but
it means you have to install the water pump after reinstalling the engine.
I'd rather install the water pump before run-in and then just leave it. The
gantry you have to assemble over the hatch will need two lift points, one
for the front of the engine and one for the back. That way you can finely
adjust the tilt as you go.

You should be able to get by with just loosening the rear motor mount, so
that it can tilt back out of the way (which works better for later
coaches--early coaches have less space there). The idea behind loosening
them is so that you don't drop the bolts into the crossmember. But I still
had to fish those bolts out of the crossmember.

You can remove the AC compressor and hold it up under the cockpit floor
using a strap. The mounting frame for the AC unit, which is designed to
hold the landing gear of a 747, will also be in the way. That bracket, and
to an even greater extent the power steering pump brackets are my reasons
to explain why factory design isn't always to be revered. Both are horror
stories, and the PS pump bracket even moreso. Take as many pictures of it
as you can before you take it apart. Pictures, pictures, pictures. We used
the picture of the distributor at its running angle.

Bagging the bolts is a good idea, that I wish I'd done. Bag the bolts for
the PS pump and the AC brackets in separate bags, too.

When you separate the final drive from the transmission, grab the input
spline on the final drive and wiggle it in and out. Axial play is supposed
to be about 0.008"--which you should not be able to feel. I predict you
will fill a definite play back and forth. If you do, replace or rebuild the
final drive. Manny tells me that a worn final drive will damage the
transmission. Mine had the same number of miles as yours. My coach is
light. Hint, hint. We couldn't find a replacement final drive that didn't
have as much play as mine did when we replaced the engine and transmission
last April, so I replaced it when I did the one-ton front end in August.
Manny ordered me to drive gently (and then wanted me to follow him as he
punched through Atlanta on the I75 HOV lane at 70mph, ha!). I had him
include a 3.21 in the crate with the front end.

To R&R the engine, transmission and final drive as one unit, you may need
more than 32 inches of clearance, but maybe not.

Rick "who did the project at KenH's--certainly one of the most ideal places
for a project like that, not least because of the expertise that comes with
it" Denney

On Mon, Jan 22, 2018 at 12:08 PM, Carl Stouffer wrote:

> Thanks for all the tips and advice. Since my front
> suspension/steering/brakes are all in good shape, I will not be going
> through all the extra steps
> to remove the front sub-frame, although I can see the advantages of doing
> it that way.
>
> My plan, at this point, is to remove the engine/transmission/final drive
> as a unit. Jim Decheine has done it this way as has (I believe) Ken
> Henderson. Since my problem started with the transmission losing third
> gear, I need to do the tranny as well. The drivetrain has 105,000 miles on
> it
> and was going to be due for an overhaul soon anyway.
>



--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
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