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| Re: Engine Removal [message #328476 is a reply to message #328449] |
Sun, 21 January 2018 20:42   |
Larry
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
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I just finished removing/Installing my 5th...Yes the 5th...engine in my GMC. Long story not worth repeating, or should I say, in no mood at the moment to repeat. Any way, Here are a few tips..not in any order.
In all cases, I took it out the bottom. You need 30-32" floor to front crossmember when using a 2" high creeper to slide engine out.
Disconnect all 12v power...Including the house battery.
Get one of those small impact drivers and a socket adaptor and use it to spin off all of the nuts and bolts. Really shortens the disassembly time. Can also be used to reassemble but must be careful not to over torque. I found it really handy to reassemble the 6 special bolts on the drive axles.
As you take things apart, bag all of the nuts, bolts, brackets etc for each accessory in baggies and label the bag. Take the alternator out...bag the parts and put with the alternator. Take the Carb off, bag the bolts and other attached stuff and put with carb....etc...etc. This may take a little extra time on disassembly, but saves mega time when reassembling. Be annal about this!!
After unbolting the drive axles, take a coat hanger wire and hang as far up and forward as possible.
On reassembly, when lifting the trans up to match with the back of the engine block, the slower you go, the faster you will go. Do it in small increments. Move it a little, and check for alignment...move a little and check for parallel to block, move a little more to get one long bolt started. Many little moves....A little at a time and suddenly it just "clunk" it's in. Patience is the name of the game here.
The trans mounts have three bolts. Two to bolt to the trans adaptor plate and one bolt to the rear frame member. It is much easier to mount it to the adaptor plate with the two bolts, and only have to worry about aligning one bolt on the frame, than bolting to the frame first and trying to align two bolts.
For more clearance dropping the trans, unbolt the front motor mount (making sure it is securely hung from a frame and block and tackle) and slide the motor forward a couple inches. Trans will drop a lot easier.
On disassembly, take the water pump, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds off before dropping the engine. Gives you a lot more maneuver room. This is an easy thing if you are using a portable impact driver.
Use your smart phone and take pictures of brackets and belts holding the alternator, AC compressor, power steering, before you take these off. Helps on reassembly.
Before removing the distributor, put engine at TDC compression stroke, pull the distributor cap off and take a picture of where the rotor and vacuum advance are pointed. Also, mark each plug wire with the number of the cylinder it came from. If nothing else just use masking tape and magic marker.
If you have a one piece radiator shroud, go to the photo site where it shows shroud modification, and cut that thing in half while it is out. Make brackets to bolt it back together. Makes servicing water pump, and other stuff at a later date MUCH easier.
I dropped my engine on a wood creeper that has a hole drilled in to accept the drain plug of the oil pan. Blocked it up with 6 X 6's and 2 X 4's, sheet rock screwing them to the creeper, and hooked on it with a chain and pulled out SLOWLY with my lawn tractor. Had a friend assist with this.
Screwed a 12" X 16" piece of 5/8" plywood to the lift plate on a low lift, long reach floor jack. Lowered the trans out of the coach with the jack and pulled it out from under by hand.
Either drain most of oil out of the FD, or find something that fits in the right hand axle drive seal to keep it from spilling FD fluid all over everything when you pull the axle out. I used a large socket that snug fit in the seal with a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adaptor in the socket drive.
Double check and recheck each hose connection before pouring in the antifreeze.
NO matter who does the engine, put it on an engine stand and run the oil pump BEFORE you put the engine in. Now is the time to check all oil gallery plugs are in and tight and you have good oil pressure. You don't want to find out the plug on the back of the block was missed after the engine is in.
Replace all questionable belts and hoses NOW.
Hope this helps
Larry 
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
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Engine Removal
By: Carl S. on Sun, 21 January 2018 14:29 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: sgltrac on Sun, 21 January 2018 14:53 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: tphipps on Sun, 21 January 2018 15:41 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: Rollerg on Sun, 21 January 2018 19:32 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: sgltrac on Sun, 21 January 2018 20:14 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
By: Larry on Sun, 21 January 2018 20:42 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
By: Carl S. on Mon, 22 January 2018 11:08 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: Kosier on Mon, 22 January 2018 19:13 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
By: Carl S. on Mon, 22 January 2018 19:55 |
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Re: Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
By: Larry on Mon, 22 January 2018 12:40 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
By: Larry on Mon, 22 January 2018 12:35 |
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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
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Re: Engine Removal
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