| Re: [GMCnet] Smart Battery Isolator/combiner [message #328357 is a reply to message #328330] |
Wed, 17 January 2018 15:38   |
Richard Denney
Messages: 920
Registered: April 2010
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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Matt, the Yandina 160 includes overload, but is rated for 400 amps closing
current. Even if you attempt to start a 455 solely through the combiner, it
will withstand 400 amps for the 2 seconds or so that it takes to go into
overload and shut down. It is overload-protected, and includes an LED
indication to show when it is in overload.
The trigger voltage is specified at 13.1 volts, so I think it will play
better with the PD converters than their 100-amp combiner. When I install
this one, I'll keep an eye on it for that. My first combiner, that I
killed, always stayed combined at the 13.2 sustain voltage. The one I
bought to replace it (I couldn't bear to use the warranty) combines at
13.2, and sometimes won't combine, but I think the problem is with my
converter. That will be a spring project.. But it will combine when the
converter senses high charging current and steps up the voltage to a higher
charging level.
The Yandina combiner is also warranted for life, even against lightning
damage.
And it is current-limited using its lead-in wires. If the engine battery is
capable, starting the 455 will not overload a Yandina combiner even if it
is combined.
Of course, there is nothing to prevent putting a 200-amp fuse or breaker in
line with the combiner, though I suspect the Combiner 160 already has that
internally.
Nothing is perfect and they do sometimes fail. I think KenH has lost one or
two over the years, and I blew one up when in a fit of stupidity I wired a
battery backwards. That stunt took out the alternator, too, though it
didn't fail completely until a couple of days later. The same could be said
for isolators. People say that isolators never fail, but I've been reading
GMCnet for many years and I've certainly heard of many failed isolators,
plus the one I had that failed. These big batteries can supply a lot of
current.
Rick "who likes not having to worry about a failed isolator causing a loss
of field sensing and runaway voltage" Denney
On Wed, Jan 17, 2018 at 9:45 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
> Please be cautious with "Smart Combiners".
>
> As many of you know, I was part of a boat electrics service group for many
> years. (This is where the coach was most used for 6 years.) While I like
> and have installed and replaced combiners as well as isolators, the
> combiners that are not rated at starting current (~400A for a 455) are
> easily
> damaged if left engaged when cranking. This can happen any time the
> demand combine capability is used even if the main engine battery is at a
> capable
> state of charge.
>
> When a combiner fails, they often indicate that they are functioning
> properly, but in actual fact are not. The indicators are that it has
> engaged and
> there is any differential across the two main posts, it is toast. Repair
> is somewhere between impractical and impossible. Carry the KenB 1$ combiner
> in your kit just in case.
>
>
--
'73 X-Glacier 230 "Jaws"
Northern Virginia
Offlist email: rick at rickdenney dot com
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