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Re: Stop lights blowing fuse [message #328254 is a reply to message #328251] Mon, 15 January 2018 18:28 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma:
Senior Member
xplorid wrote on Mon, 15 January 2018 18:59
Thanks mate, and sorry, should not have used the word "resistance", I do not know what I am talking about technically.

I pulled the dark green directional wire (RH rear) from the turn signal switch plug at the bottom of the column
Ran a long "jumper" wire from that pulled (turn signal switch) wire to the RH rear socket contact and got a very weak turn signal light, trying several spots on the contact.
Pulled that side of the contact out of the RH rear socket and the jumper wire operated the turn signal light correctly when connected directly to the bulb.
Cleaned the socket as best I could, put it back in the socket and tested again with the same results. Did that 3 times, thinking I had found the bad spot in the circuit.

Hope that makes sense, no knowledge but a little logic.

To be safe, I left the dark green directional wire disconnected at the plug at the column, now everything works except the RH rear stop light/directional light, and the fuse does not blow.

At least for the moment I can move the coach with a single (LH side) brake light functioning and 3 out of 4 directionals.

That's as close as I am going to get today, not sure what I am missing yet.

Jeff

Jeff,

I am straining at some very old neurons here, but GM went though several versions of sockets for brake/tail light assemblies. I had some trouble with most. The two I remember best are:
One that had the two contacts though a piece of phenolic. That contact was crimped onto the wire and the contacts and all were loaded into the socket with a spring. With time and age, the phenolic would let the back side of the contact down so it could short to the spring. The spring was not a real hard short, but the current would soften it. And a guy without a lot of patience would end up throwing things because you could pull the bulb out and clean thing and it would work until it didn't again.
The other was a trip too. They had a rubber plug with the contacts in it. This is no better. The rubber goes bad with age and will create a very reliable intermittent short in the light circuit. You will never find it unless you pull the whole assembly apart.

Now, What to do if this sounds like your case.
Go to a local store front autoparts store and look for the wall of electrical stuff. Someplace will be a double contact socket with two wires. These come in both the king that fit in a big hole and the kind that are just a socket. Buy all you find that you think have a chance and save the receipt so you can take the others back. It may take some ingenuity to make this repair, but I have done it.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
 
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