Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] PS Pump Leaks
| [GMCnet] PS Pump Leaks [message #326495] |
Wed, 29 November 2017 18:58  |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
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For months, I've been plagued by Power Steering Pump leaks. Every time I
get back on the rack, the bottom of the PSP, its 3 hoses, the front
crossmember and everything below it was covered with PS fluid.
Since I'll shortly be disabled for a while, I decided yesterday that I'd
fix it. Had a heck of a time getting the thing off. I'd re-tightened the
big nut on the back and teh outlet hose that connects to it so many times,
and so tightly, that I litterally could not get them loose. The big nut is
so thing that the 1" open end wrench on it prevented the 5/8" flare nut
wrench from getting a good grip. Plus, I couldn't get the room to extend
the flare wrench for leverage.
I finally had to disconnect the two return hoses (1 for PS, the other for
Hydroboost) and lower the PSP onto the front cross member. There, I was
finally able to use the 1" wrench and the wonderful flare nut Vice-Grips
(THANKS Matt) to get a good grip on things. WIth a piece of pipe on the
Vice-Grips, I was finally able to break the joint loose and remove the
PSP. Probably didn't spill over a pint of fluid during the whole
exercise. :-(
As soon as I got the reservoir off (a simple matter, after the bolts are
all removed, of tapping around the pulley side with a plastic hammer), I
saw the problem: There are 3 O-rings sealing two 3/8" bolts and the one
outlet fitting nut. They fit into recesses in the body of the pump, with
the sheet metal reservoir rear surface pressed against them by the
fasteners. That's ALL that prevents leaks from back there. All 3 O-rings
were badly mangled, misaligned so badly that they were squooshed outside of
their recesses. The BIG O-ring between the mail pump body and the
reservoir's round housing, was in great shape.
All 3 of the fastener holes in the back of the reservoir were badly
dimpled, probably because I'd tried at some time to fix leaks by
overtightening them. So, using a very smooth anvil and a smooth ball pein,
I smoothed the areas around the holes.
I finally found the proper sized O-rings in my box. This time, for the
first time ever, I used my head a little bit in reinstalling the
reservoir: Usually, I just aim it in the right direction, then shove and
drive it home. When the holes don't quite line up, I just twist the
reservoir until they do. THAT is probably what caused the damaged
O-rings. This time, I used a couple of 3/8"-16x3" studs, made from
all-thread, in the two bolt holes as guides for the reservoir as I
installed it. When I removed the studs, there was no need to rotate the
housing and dislodge the O-rings.
With everything bolted back up, re-installed, and re-filled, I jacked the
front wheels off the ground and fired up the engine. After a few full lock
L & R turns of the steering wheel, the boost had obviously returned. AND,
my Hydroboosted hydraulic line pressure increased by a couple of hundred
psi. I'm not sure why, because all air should have been evacuated during
the past 20,000+ miles, but it did.
After a couple of engine runs, and sitting overnight, today the reservoir
and surroundings are still dry. Y'All keep your fingers crossed that I've
finally licked this one. Even if I haven't cured the AFT leak. :-(
Ken H.
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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