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Re: [GMCnet] High torque starter? [message #326077 is a reply to message #326070] Thu, 16 November 2017 12:57 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma:
Senior Member
We have sold over 50 of the HI Torque starters.
I agree that when you make sure connections are all clean and tight, you do
not need to acquire the HT starter. Most love the HT starter as it is very
light and does spin the engine faster. We offer it as people like choices.

On Thu, Nov 16, 2017 at 8:35 AM, James Hupy wrote:

> I have a local rebuilder who does starters and alternators for me. On the
> smaller frame alternators, he upgrades them from 66 amps to 80 amps,
> replaces the bearings, and thread inserts on the aluminum case where the
> tensioning brackets bolt in. On the starters, all American made solenoid
> parts, field windings, new bushings and brushes. I usually do 6 starters at
> a time, 3 standard and 3 high torque.
> IF YOUR ENGINE IS STOCK, THERE IS NO NEED FOR A HIGH TORQUE STARTER,
> but, if you have a high compression, long cam timed engine, you might. Most
> of the time, it is batteries and cables that cause slow cranking when hot.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
> 78 GMC ROYALE 403
>
> On Nov 16, 2017 8:22 AM, "Matt Colie" wrote:
>
>> fred v wrote on Thu, 16 November 2017 08:54
>>> Has anyone tried the new high torque starters? I've had an ongoing
>> problem cranking when the engine is hot.
>>> thanks,
>>
>> Fred,
>>
>> That 10MT starter is a brute, but its big weakness is that it just
> doesn't
>> complain when it should. When mine finally quit, it was way past due for
>> an overhaul. Up until then, I was thinking I maybe had a bad connection
>> somewhere. Well, I did. The thing was probably running on 2 of the four
>> brushes for the prior year.
>>
>> After you have cleaned and checked all the cables and battery terminals.
>> (The ground half too.) If she isn't cranking smartly, take the starter
>> down,
>> stand it on its nose (the old Bushes cans work great, but new ones not
> so)
>> in a 3"DWV coupling and take the three nuts that hold the back and field
> to
>> the nose. You want to take all three off because with the field loose,
> if
>> anything happens, the solenoid cover will get broken. (BTDT) Then you can
>> either find a friend with a lathe or a rebulder because the brush holders
>> will have been dragging on the commutator long enough that it needs some
>> attention.
>>
>> I have heard one 403 with a "High Torque" starter crank up. I was not
>> impressed. With the now good starter, my 455 cranks better.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
>> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
 
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