Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] Should the batteries charge when plugged in
| Re: [GMCnet] Should the batteries charge when plugged in [message #324770 is a reply to message #324737] |
Mon, 09 October 2017 21:14   |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
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There is a possible issue with leaving the boost switch on. Original
equipment boost solenoids were CONTINOUS DUTY CYCLE. If it has been
replaced with a INTERMITTENT DUTY CYCLE solenoid by an unknowing person or
cheapskate, if you leave it on continously, it can overheat with bad
consequences. ( fire). Better safe than sorry.
Jim Hupy
On Oct 9, 2017 7:05 PM, "John Phillips" wrote:
Re replacing the Parallax converter:
I would like to know why. Does it have a bad reputation? Is it because it
is not an intelligent charge controller? I have a DC voltmeter plugged
into the lighter socket on the dash. I have not seen voltage higher than
12.6 there. If it goes over 13.3 I would be concerned.
My dash boost switch is not momentary so as long as it seems to charge from
shore power I think I will use it. I should be able to run it that way
until I park and do not plug in.
Is the combiner box really as simple as a cliplead across the boost relay?
So as I reflect on what has been said I really do not have a 240-volt panel
but rather 2 40-amp 120-volt panels with a shared ground buss between them.
I could not run a 240-volt heater or an inductive cooktop, at least until I
plug into a real 240-volt shore power. At this point with only one AC unit
installed everything is running off the right-hand side.
Good call seeing that I am running a 40-amp neutral threw that small white
wire. If I move the white wire from the ground bus and connect it to the
right-hand neutral that should give me twice the capacity.
On Mon, Oct 9, 2017 at 4:46 PM, Matt Colie wrote:
> johnd01 wrote on Mon, 09 October 2017 10:58
>> My furnace and kitchen sink are next to the dry shower.
>> The cord plugged into the blue box goes to the silver box behind the
> electrical panel. The other silver box by the vertical board is a 4x4
4-wire
>> electrical socket fed by the generator. I do not have a transfer switch
> and plug into the generator when not plugged into shore power.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/fylwe5hu48chqu2/20171007_225426.jpg?dl=0
>> I opened the breaker box and was surprised to see the red leg was not
> connected to anything. When I got the coach all these breakers were on. I
>> was thinking of installing 50 amp 240-volt shore power box next to my
> parking pad. One of the left breakers was labeled rear AC. The rear AC
unit
>> had been removed. I am guessing the black wire in the lower left goes to
> the rear AC unit. The other item is the white wire jumping from the right
>> buss bar to the center buss bar one location left of the green wire.
> Bet if I removed that white wire my GFI would not trip anymore.
>>
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/7t9bnl6qzlgq7ta/20171007_163204.jpg?dl=0
>> The left breaker is the black leg input followed by the outlets, the
> blue box which supplies power to the silver box behind the breaker box and
>> the 15 amp breaker controls the front AC unit.
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
>> I am pulling the breaker box forward to find what is behind it.
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/tulb0ebrejmjnn4/20171007_230541.jpg?dl=0
>> Here is the label from the silver box behind the breaker box.
>> https://www.dropbox.com/s/oglr1mkwu49o77z/20171007_230557.jpg?dl=0
>> Is this a new upgrade for the famous buzz box?
>> Is there a problem using the dash switch to link the house and chassis
> batteries together while on shore power to keep the chassis battery
>> charged?
>>
>> As I understand it GMC did not build any trans modes until 75. I do know
> the serial numbers started over with 100,000 every year.
>> Not sure if the serial numbers for trans mode are interlaced with GMC
> completed units or if they had their own set starting with 100,000 each
>> year.
>> There is only 1 unit between your's which may indicate that they were
> building trans modes that day or that the trans modes had there own set of
>> serial numbers. We also have to take into account that this is the model
> year which starts in the late summer rather than the actual build year. To
>> have 425 units built by November they are probably sharing a common
> serial number sequence.
>>
>> --
>> *John Phillips*
>
> John,
>
> Lets start with the easy answers:
> Yes, the Parallax is a newer replacement for the buzz-box, but not a whole
> lot better - just quieter. Still consider replacing it with a Iota or
> Progressive Dymanics number. Having the converter plugged in makes it
> simpler to both install and replace, so that was common.
> Yes, you could use the dash boost switch to parallel the backs for
> charging from shore power, but many newer coaches have a momentary switch
> there, so
> lost of carry a "1$ combiner" that is a pair of alligator clips with a
> short wire to put on the two battery terminals of the isolator. When you
do
> the walk around before departure, you will see it and remove it then.
> Never Skip the Walk Around.
>
> The strangeness of the panel is a result of trying to run 2 roof A/Cs
> without the cost and issues of a 50 amp (14-50) connection. At the time
our
> coaches were built, there was a big fight in the industry. It was clear
> that a single line 30 amp was not going to be adequate, but nobody wanted
to
> spring for the copper to do it right. So, there are a lot of coaches like
> your with two feeds. A 30 for most of the coach and a 15 (that gets
called
> 20) for the other A/C unit and maybe something else.
>
> Most of the internals of the panel look not to bad, but that white jumper
> that goes from the neutral buss on the right to the ground buss between
the
> two neutral busses will make every GFI you see jump open in fear. I am a
> little concerned that there is not a healthier jumper between the two
> neutral busses. By all rights, the extra feed for the other A/C should
> come in as three conductors also and feed the other neutral. The grounds
> can
> connect there.
>
> The Big Green wire should be the ground from your shore power cable. That
> buss lug that it goes to should only have grounds connected. So, that
> white jumper was probably a repair for something that didn't work. I
> suggest that you remove that and then trouble shoot was does not work
> correctly.
>
>
> If I lost you, sorry, tell me and I will try again.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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--
*John Phillips*
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