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Re: Brake shoe adjustment [message #322908 is a reply to message #322810] Tue, 29 August 2017 06:58 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
C Boyd is currently offline  C Boyd   United States
Messages: 2629
Registered: April 2006
Karma:
Senior Member
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6385-how-i-adjust-brakes.html
Sir, after assembly tighten adjusters tight. This will center shoes. Then loosen adjuster till the wheel free spins and will ring when tapped with wrench. There will still be a tight spot, but should be slight.
The National seal is a double lip seal and I usually don't seat the seal in the hub below the lip and just flush with the outer lip.
Rule of thumb on bearings and wheel cylinders is if one is bad or questionable is replace them all. Makes sleeping more relaxing.
On the brake shoes use sevier duty bonded shoes and the short shoe is primary and goes to the front. Replace springs also. Make sure the emergency brake cable is retracted all the way and not holding against the shoes.
On the bearing adjustment, tighten to 35 ft lb to seat seal then loosen and re tighten by hand only till cotter key will go in. There are 2 different holes in spindle for half a hole sdjustment. Never replace bearing without replacing race.



McCohens wrote on Mon, 28 August 2017 08:43
Sorry for not searching this first. but I am headed to the driveway to replace all 4 sets of brake shoes on my 76 eleganza II. A leaking cylinder in one has prompted the work, and the wheels are off anyway for the new tires.
The manual says tighten adjusters until there is drag then back off 30 clicks. This seems like a lot, I was thinking more like just until there is no or very slight drag. Any small amount of drag would get worn off in the first few miles. BUT drum brake adjustment is a new thing for me, so please contribute to my education. Will check back later, should be a few hours to do all 4 wheels.
TIA
Randy


C. Boyd
76 Crestmont
East Tennessee
 
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