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Re: [GMCnet] starting the engine [message #322182 is a reply to message #322133] Wed, 16 August 2017 06:14 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
kstockwell is currently offline  kstockwell   United States
Messages: 367
Registered: May 2016
Location: Putney VT
Karma:
Senior Member
Again, thank you all. I realize it's hard to help diagnose with a photo or two. I have a friend who works on his cars willing to come take a look this weekend. The comments on the vac lines are interesting; I'll take a look at that and see if anything is rotted. The fact is it drives fine, and starts quickly when warmed up. So I'm hopeful it's just the choke out of wack. Last year when I posted here (or read here) about setting the choke with the pedal to the floor it began starting right away when cold. So it was working not too long ago.

I'm 2+ hours from Plaistow NH (through what I imagine is some crappy traffic- being from VT crappy traffic is probably not what anyone else would call it Smile. I know Mike is there and am grateful to have him nearby. So far I haven't talked to him or needed him.


What I really don't understand is how the choke plate should be connected to the bimetal spring contraption on the passenger side. The workings of the plate and the movement of the levers don't touch each other, but I don't know how they're supposed to.

Hopefully this weekend my friend and I can diagnose. For now I'm certainly not dead in the water. With the choke not working, what's the best way to cold start it? Stab the pedal down once or twice while cranking, and only crank for 10 seconds at a time?


-kelly


bdub wrote on Tue, 15 August 2017 10:23
Here's some parts:
http://appliedgmc.com/search.itml?icQuery=choke

Actually, a modern electric choke would be nice and close off that choke
stove. Jim can supply those as well.

And, close off the carb warping, manifold cracking exhaust crossover
ports. haha One good upgrade deserves another.....

How far are you from New England RV / Mike Glover in Plaistow, NH?

bdub


On Tue, Aug 15, 2017 at 8:44 AM, John R. Lebetski wrote:

> 1)From your picture the fresh air line to the choke stove looks kinked up
> top where it draws clean air from back of carb.
> 2) the hot side of the line coming from the manifold to the carb looks
> rusted. This means that the loop down in the manifold is probably rotted
> away.
>
> 3) this means the choke thermostat will not get proper heat signal causing
> the choke to not open properly
> 4) so-- because of this someone has probably loosened the 3 screws on the
> choke thermostat and de-adjusted the thermostat to the Lean side to
> circumvent the choke staying on.
> The choke heat lines will need replacing, choke spring and housing
> cleaned, then re-adjusted
> My arm chair diagnostics from the picture
>
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1978 Kingsley Putney VT
 
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