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Re: starting the engine [message #321752 is a reply to message #321702] Mon, 07 August 2017 08:56 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
JohnL455 is currently offline  JohnL455   United States
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma:
Senior Member
1) If it worked properly last year but not now, it could be gum on the linkages moving parts and fast idle pivot. I like WD-40 for this as it cleans and disolves and leaves a touch of light lube. Manuals say "do not lubricate" as they don't want the lubricant itself to gum, but rebuilders recommend WD-40 to clean and preserve the finish.
2) if it starts then falters after a few seconds then the choke vac pull off needs adjustment, replacement, or the 1" vac hose feeding it replaced. When set right it should transition almost like EFI. This is a very fine adjustment but makes a huge difference when correct. The pulloff cracks the choke open in the seconds after it starts a set amount so it won't choke out.
3) you may have developed bowl plug leaks in the that need epoxy.
4) after sitting a few weeks longer cranking times are normal with a stock setup. If this happens every morning on a trip, check 1, 2, 3 above.
5) one final overlooked thing that is a quick cold engine off test is to be sure the choke unloader is set correctly. With choke now working and a cold engine and air cleaner lid off, set the choke with one full pedal press. Now press the pedal to the floor and in the last 1/2" or so of pedal pressure you should see the choke rotate open about 1/4". This is the "clear flood" setup where if flooded you hold pedal fully down and crank per the manual. However for this to work your pedal cable has to be fully opening the throttle in the first place.


John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
 
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