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Re: starting the engine [message #321736 is a reply to message #321702] Sun, 06 August 2017 23:15 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
mrgmc3 is currently offline  mrgmc3   United States
Messages: 210
Registered: September 2013
Location: W Washington
Karma:
Senior Member
For cold start problems you can check 2 main issues relatively easily with the hatch open and air cleaner lid removed and the engine OFF.;
1) choke operation - before you touch anything else, while the engine is still cold, simply press the gas pedal one time all the way to the floor. The choke plate should fully close. If the choke plate is even partially open you have some linkage adjusting to do. If it does not close fully it will be very hard to start COLD (engine is at ambient temp).
2) check for fuel in the float bowl. You can do this by pressing the gas pedal and looking down the primary bores of the carburetor, but NOT while cranking! Just with the engine off you should see two small streams spray as you move the pedal - assuming your accelerator pump works properly. If there is no "pump shot" either the bowl is empty, the accelerator pump is bad or both. The fuel can "go away" from the float bowl for two reasons; a) the engine was very hot last time you shut it down or it's been several days - in either case the contents of the float bowl evaporated. b) the well plugs on the underside of the float bowl leak and the contents drip into your intake manifold (can be fixed with epoxy). In either case you must crank for several seconds to fill the bowl back up. Running the electric pump for 5 -10 seconds before cranking will help wth this.
Finally I would not recommend cranking the engine for more than 10 seconds at time with a 20 second wait before recranking. Cranking longer will overheat the starter and shorten its life.


Chris Geils - Twin Cities / W Wa 1978 26' Kingsley w/ very few mods; PD9040, aux trans cooler, one repaint in stock colors, R134a, Al rad, Alcoas, 54k mi
 
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