| Re: [GMCnet] What I found out about my LP gauge/wiring [message #317387 is a reply to message #316666] |
Thu, 11 May 2017 13:34  |
Hoosier
Messages: 20
Registered: May 2008
Location: Roxboro, NC
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Quote:Gauge shows full all the time. Pushed the LP gauge switch. Had 12 volt on both the terminals on the back of the gauge. ( Both the red, and white wires are not connected to the tank sender. ) The white wire at the tank, But not connected to the tank sender. Is a true ground to the body. Next I need to engage the LP gauge switch to see what voltage I have at the red power wire at the tank. Shouldn't the voltage at the tank be lower? If I have power at the tank. Attach the ground to the ground terminal on the tank. It should work. If not. I need to check continuity in the sender. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale
Bob, The sending unit on the end of the tank is removable with 2 small screws, top & bottom. It can be removed with no danger of losing propane. After removing the sender you can move the needle with a bar magnet, as it is magnetically connected to the mechanical sender inside the tank. Make temporary connections after you move the needle and check results on the panel. My panel gauge has 2 wires on it and reads full until I press the switch; then reads close to where I have the needle set. Sender is near 0 ohm empty, 90+ full.
When I first got my coach the circuit did not work. The tank was empty so I removed the sending unit which being mechanical and worn was physically stuck. A little manipulating and it freed up. The rubber hammer mentioned earlier might have worked. Probably without the trouble of removing the tank. I haven't driven mine since the repair - as the mechanical sender bounces continually when propane is in the tank, wear has to become an issue.
RayBechtel
Roxboro, NC
1976 Royale
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