I am going to disagree with Larry. I have adjusted the ride height on many coaches with my un-loader tool and we ALWAYS do it with the weight on the wheels. If you do it with the wheels hanging you have no input as to how much the coach has raised or lowered when you turn the adjustment tool screw. Doing it by dropping the wheels means you will have a very long procedure because you will have to drop the coach, drive it around, and then measure see what your adjustment results are over and over again for each correction. For each correction you will have to set it up again.

The 6 turn per inch is just a guideline. As you start to turn one side the weight transfers to that side and the first few turns usually just twist the bar without raising the coach. So if you turn the screw on the light side of the coach you will get more than 1" for 6 turns and simultaneously will get some lift on the opposite side. If you are turning on the heavy side you will initially get no lift followed by less than 1" on the heavy side.

So my recommendation is to LUBRICATE the screw on the adjustment tool liberally. I use anti-seize but oil will do. Then adjust the bars on both sides with the weight on the wheels. After adjusting the second side, recheck the first side, and change it as necessary. Go back and forth between the two sides until no change is required on either side. Then drive the coach for a few miles and recheck your measurements / adjustments.

It is imperative that the REAR END be blocked in place at EXACTLY EQUAL height during the front height adjustment. We have found that a 1/4" difference in side to side height in the rear will transfer 125 pounds from side to side in the front (with a corresponding change in front ride height).

One other comment on your procedure. You can also cut some blocks for the front height measurement to the bottom of the frame rather than tape measure to the top of the holes. I do not remember the dimension of the blocks at the moment and my measurement stuff is not at home for me to look at right now.

I cut up a bunch of scrap lumber and handed out the pre-cut blocks at several of the GMCMI rallies. The blocks make adjustment much easier. I use 1x2's for the front blocks and 2x4's for the rear blocks so we do not get them confused while using them. Front and rear are different lengths.