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Re: yet another dash AC question [message #274726 is a reply to message #274707] Wed, 01 April 2015 12:45 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
KB is currently offline  KB   United States
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma:
Senior Member
I replaced the low pressure switch and adjusted the thermostat down slightly and that seems to have fixed the cycling problems I was seeing before.
However, as you note, I'm not hearing much RPM change, though I can tell by the pressure change that it's engaging when I disconnect and reconnect
the pressure switch.

When we get back, I'll try putting back the original (likely good) expansion valve and charging with real Duracool so we have an apples to apples comparison.
If it still doesn't work, then I'll start bugging JimK about it.

Thanks everyone for all the help. This has been a real tough problem for a complete AC novice like me.

Karen
1975 26'


JohnL455 wrote on Wed, 01 April 2015 07:36
If I remember my GM history correctly cycling clutch started in 77. So your comp should stay engaged unless low or high pressure switches open as protection. So far so good. Lack of differential pressure points to the valve. They changed types and name for expansion valve or POA over the years. Obviously adding refigerant will raise the pressures low and high side. How does the low side site glass look as you charge it? Can you see vapor rushing past it? If so I would guess comp is ok. I think Emery said the glass is not accurate as a charge guide with HC12. If it goes clear liquid it is overcharged, unlike w R12. Sounds like you never reach a good point as you added and monitored charge so charge amount would have been good and cold at some point. I would refer to the FSM for your year to understand and diagnose your year's valve system. I think there is a bleed tube and temp sensing to control the throttling of the valve. In other words it's an active valving component, unlike the fixed orifice size and temp control done by cycling the comp on the later years. I'm guessing there is not enough pressure building across the valve. You should hear an RPM drop as you cycle from vent to AC, if only slight then the pump isn't using any horsepower to do work against the restriction. Do Jim Ks techs have any insights using this comp on your year with HC12?

 
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