Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Vaporlock baseline temperatures
| Re: [GMCnet] Vaporlock baseline temperatures [message #211789 is a reply to message #211756] |
Fri, 21 June 2013 09:46   |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma:
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Senior Member |
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| Jim Bounds wrote on Fri, 21 June 2013 04:12 |
Mike,
Can I install a 3 port mechanical fuel pump and use the return from it to set up the same condition? A friend of mine here in Florida has done that and feels it is a major addition to his system
Jim Bounds
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From: Michael Morton <memorton@charter.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Thursday, June 20, 2013 5:36 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Vaporlock baseline temperatures
Guys, I just can't believe that everyone keeps trying to over engineer this vapor lock problem. I have posted a couple times how I cured my problem and been told it wouldn't work. After rebuilding, restoring, and racing many different things for the last 40 years, I believe in the KISS principle. (keep it simple stupid). I started racing dirt bikes, moved into go carts, drag cars, road race cars, have build 2 motorcycles that hold land speed records. But my first love is airplanes. I am a licensed aircraft and power plant mechanic and an airline captain. I have raced an airplane at Reno, flown airshows in several different aerobatic aircraft and presently maintain several war birds that I fly at shows. My main hobby is restoring antique aircraft, just finished rebuilding the 300hp engine on my airshow aircraft. Lost count of how many aircraft engines I have rebuilt over the years. I'm just saying this to show that I am no dummy when it comes to
mechanical things. I read
about coolers, tank insulation, in tank pumps, and many more ideas. All that is required is a simple fuel return line. Just tap and install a fitting in the top of the fuel filter housing at the carb, install another one in the fuel filler neck, located in the engine compartment under the drivers seat and connect the two with a 1/4 inch line. I did this 2 years ago and haven't have a hint of vapor lock problem since. Now I just use my electric fuel pump to fill the carb after a long sit to make it start easier. With the fuel constantly flowing there is little chance for vapor lock and if vapor does form it is routed back to the fuel tank. I did say to install the fitting on the top of the fuel filter housing, didn't I? This maintains reliable fuel to the carb bowl. Most carburated and fuel injected aircraft use a fuel return to combat vapor lock. All the cars I own I have bought salvage and rebuilt so I know them inside and out, my BMW, and Ford F150
with fuel injection use
fuel returns, hell even my carburated 1985 Jeep CJ7, and 1966 AC Cobra use a fuel return. Just keep it simple, install a fuel return and enjoy your ride. After all, we are dealing with a motor home built in the 70s using 50s technology, it's not rocket science.
Sorry to toot my horn, but this is not my first rodeo.
Mike Morton
1975 Eleganza (Sloopy)
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When I got my coach five years ago, it had severe vapor lock issues right from the get go. I happened to mention this to Dave Lenzi while talking to him about copper exhaust manifold gaskets and Dave suggested using the Toronado AC equipped fuel pump with the bleed off. I have done a whole laundry list of things to combat the vapor lock, EXCEPT that.
The vapor lock is virtually gone, but still rears it's ugly head now and then. I think Mike's solution takes it one step further than the fuel pump thing, as it takes the line from the pump to the carb out of the equation. That will be my next step in, hopefully, finally solving this problem. If that doesn't work, I will eventually go with the in tank pumps.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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