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Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement [message #162805 is a reply to message #162795] Mon, 12 March 2012 21:29 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
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Senior Member

Who_dun_it wrote on Mon, 12 March 2012 18:51

I am replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and would like to info from other folks that have performed that task. I expect to buy the copper coated gaskets from Jim K.
1. One of the manifolds is cracked. Fortunately I have another pair. Are these repairable?
2. The exhaust system did not have manifold to header pipe springs. Does someone here have them to sell or do I buy elsewhere? They seem to be readily available.
3. Is there any advantage to use socket head bolts instead of the regular ones?
4. Other than making sure that the mating surfaces are clean, are there other tips I should be aware of?

Thanks
Les
Thousand Oaks CA



Les,

One of the first things I did (had to do) to our coach when I first got it, was to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. I got them from Dave Lenzi and Dave included instructions and Thick flat washers. I assume Jim K provides the same items. Dave is very specific about how to torque the bolts and how and when to re-torque them.

I got the spring/shoulder bolt kits locally, but found them hard to use. The new bolts were not quite as long as the old ones and they were hard to get started. I ended up re-using most of the old ones. I also sourced the donuts locally.

Dave told me to not let the machine shop resurface the manifolds on a belt sander, but the machinist said he had no other way to do it. It worked out fine.

There is a recommendation here to use low grade bolts, but I didn't know any better and used grade 8s. They worked out fine and I didn't have any problem with them when I had to remove one of the manifolds in order to make the installation of the 3.70 final drive easier. I replaced the gasket on the left side at that time with a new one.

I have put about 13,000 miles on the coach since doing this job, without any sort of a problem.

Good luck. It is an easy job, especially if you remove the fender liners and do the work through the fenders.


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member

[Updated on: Mon, 12 March 2012 21:33]

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