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Forum: GMCnet
 Topic: [GMCnet] Need a FD dip stick
Re: [GMCnet] Need a FD dip stick [message #320869 is a reply to message #320866] Sun, 23 July 2017 06:38
USAussie is currently offline  USAussie   United States
Messages: 15146
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
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Huh?

Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808

-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces-AT-list-DOT-gmcnet-DOT-org] On Behalf Of Bob Dunahugh
Sent: Sunday, July 23, 2017 2:07 PM
To: gmclist-AT-list-DOT-gmcnet-DOT-org
Subject: [GMCnet] Need a FD dip stick

Bob Dunahugh
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Regards, Rob M. (USAussie) The Pedantic Mechanic Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
 Topic: Engine paint?
Re: Engine paint? [message #320871 is a reply to message #320759] Sun, 23 July 2017 07:25
eagleman 73 GMC Sequoia 2 is currently online  eagleman 73 GMC Sequoia 2   United States
Messages: 6
Registered: July 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Karma:
Junior Member
the general opinion is that my faded, teal looking, non-metallic looking dull old engine paint was really once the metallic "Oldsmobile Blue" as used on the car engines of 1973. So, I'll continue with Eastwood's "51683ZP Olds 455 Blue Engine Paint". I really like Eastwood's ceramic engine paint because it goes on so easily and flows so well. 3 coats on the intake and the can still looks full. It's not cheap, but (other than the metallic streaks from brushing) looks good. The only down side is that the paint is so reflective that you keep finding "holidays" to touch up that really aren't "holidays" but reflections. clean up is easy using the ever present brake cleaner.
Thanks to everyone for the input. a photo link of the painted intake is above and I'll post a photo of what ever else I decide to paint on the engine when I'm done.
 Topic: [GMCnet] Save those old starter solenoids. Or at least save the copper contact washers.
Re: [GMCnet] Save those old starter solenoids. Or at least save the copper contact washers. [message #320874 is a reply to message #320865] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:10
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
Messages: 2661
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma:
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Bob, and other great tinkerers, would it be possible to replicate the copper disk? I've never needed to take one apart, but a flat copper disk seems simple. Finding proper copper might be hard down here in rural lower Alabama, but there is always the internet.
See you in Elkhart.
Tom, MS II


1975 GMC Avion KA4CSG
Re: [GMCnet] Save those old starter solenoids. Or at least save the copper contact washers. [message #320877 is a reply to message #320865] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:25
Johnny Bridges is currently offline  Johnny Bridges   United States
Messages: 6047
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma:
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Sure, if you can find a piece of copper stock the right thickness. ~~1/8" pught top do. Cut the circle and put the hole in the middle and you have it.

--johnny


76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. "I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
Re: [GMCnet] Save those old starter solenoids. Or at least save the copper contact washers. [message #320878 is a reply to message #320874] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:32
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
Messages: 497
Registered: February 2015
Location: Cary, NC
Karma:
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https://www.mcmaster.com/#copper/=18mf0wx


If someone sent me one I can see about making some......

Pete


Cary, NC No Coach yet but likely center kitchen, dry side bath Royale, 78, 403, hopefully with good original white Imron paint.
Re: [GMCnet] Save those old starter solenoids. Or at least save the copper contact washers. [message #320879 is a reply to message #320865] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:37
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 4313
Registered: May 2010
Karma:
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Those solenoids are still available in the parts stream that supplies
automotive remanufacturers. High quality rebuilders still use them, but
their prices are high. As that trade faces really stiff competition from
the Mass Marketers, you might see inferior parts slip in there once in a
while. The rebuilder that I use cusses every time I talk to him about
having to share the reputation that is applied to him unfairly by
association with Auto Zone type retailers that sell only on price point. I
collect known good cores, and when I have 6 or more, I take them to him. He
gives me a slightly better price when he can work them in assembly line
style, with no deadlines. Just what I do.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Jul 23, 2017 6:23 AM, "Thomas Phipps" wrote:

Bob, and other great tinkerers, would it be possible to replicate the
copper disk? I've never needed to take one apart, but a flat copper disk
seems
simple. Finding proper copper might be hard down here in rural lower
Alabama, but there is always the internet.
See you in Elkhart.
Tom, MS II
--
1975 GMC Avion
KA4CSG

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 Topic: [GMCnet] OOPs Trans dip stick
[GMCnet] OOPs Trans dip stick [message #320883] Sun, 23 July 2017 09:31
BobDunahugh is currently offline  BobDunahugh   United States
Messages: 1454
Registered: October 2010
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
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Brain fart. Bob Dunahugh
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 Topic: [GMCnet] Got Double Trouble weighed at a CAT Scale
Re: [GMCnet] frame & body [message #320880 is a reply to message #320842] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:53
Les Burt[1] is currently offline  Les Burt[1]   United States
Messages: 298
Registered: April 2014
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Bill,
I put the photos here back in sept 2012.

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g6170-1974-1978-front-frame-comparison.html

Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'


> On Jul 22, 2017, at 2:49 PM, Bill Bryant wrote:
>
> WOW, did I say all that and did the photos of the front frame sections ever get posted?
>
> The two key GMC MH Engineers, Ralph Merkle (Chassis) and John Locklin (Body), design intent was for the body/frame structures combined forming a more
> than adquate structure. John Locklin had said that his body was holding up Ralphs frame. Ralph Merkle would say that the purpose of the frame is for
> a place to hang the wheels.
>
> I think they did a great job!
>
> Bill
> --
> Bill Bryant
> 1976~PB
> 1914 Ford
> 1965 Corvette
> GMC MH History CD & GMC Showroom DVD
> Workprint DVD GMC development 11-70 to 3-71
> http://bdub.net/billbryant/
>
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Re: [GMCnet] frame & body [message #320882 is a reply to message #320880] Sun, 23 July 2017 09:33
bryant374 is currently offline  bryant374   United States
Messages: 528
Registered: May 2004
Location: Pleasant Valley, NY 12569
Karma:
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Thanks Les.

Bill


Bill Bryant
1976~PB
1914 Ford
1965 Corvette
GMC MH History CD & GMC Showroom DVD
Workprint DVD GMC development 11-70 to 3-71
http://bdub.net/billbryant/
 Topic: ONAN starting
Re: [GMCnet] ONAN starting [message #320885 is a reply to message #320863] Sun, 23 July 2017 09:53
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 7077
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
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OK, I've removed the erroneous ground connection from Pin 8. The revised
diagram is here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3XquSIYjDleeFphNGM1OXZKd1k/view?usp=sharing

Eventually I'll get that version "KH Onan Wiring 170723" onto GMCMHPhotos
to replace "KH Onan Wiring 170604", but I'm having trouble right now.

Ken H.


On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 11:51 PM, Ken Henderson
wrote:

> Bill,
>
> You're absolutely correct: My latest version is WRONG! I guess when I
> looked at the OEM diagram and eliminated the Voltage Regulator, I ignored
> that the SCR in the VR was isolating that point from ground.
>
> I'll revise and publish that tomorrow. Gosh, I hope that's the last one!
> I think my four score years mean I should give up this sort of thing. :-(
> Y'All keep looking for errors -- and consider assuming this task.
>
> Ken H.
>
>
> On Sat, Jul 22, 2017 at 9:32 PM, Bill Wevers wrote:
>
>> Mr. Henderson,
>> I believe your original schematic was correct, with respect to Pin 8.
>> When I look at PIN 8 on my Onan board, it does not connect to GND.
>> That's the 30V generator output being rectified by CR1 and filtered by R1
>> C1.
>>
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
 Topic: [GMCnet] Another GMC movie star ?
Re: [GMCnet] Another GMC movie star ? [message #320875 is a reply to message #320849] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:23
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
Messages: 497
Registered: February 2015
Location: Cary, NC
Karma:
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Couldn't find it.......

Cary, NC No Coach yet but likely center kitchen, dry side bath Royale, 78, 403, hopefully with good original white Imron paint.
Re: [GMCnet] Another GMC movie star ? [message #320888 is a reply to message #320875] Sun, 23 July 2017 10:18
Kimberlea Weeks is currently offline  Kimberlea Weeks   United States
Messages: 552
Registered: July 2010
Karma:
Senior Member
Do you have a link? Would like to add to the Theatrical Appearances on the
gmcmi.com website. http://www.gmcmi.com/theatrical-appearances/

Kimberlea Weeks
VP Administration and Convention Manager
612.501.4600 | f.866.519.0047 | www.gmcmi.com

GMC Motorhomes International
1402 So. Cage Blvd | Unit 273 | Pharr | TX 78577-6288


On Sun, Jul 23, 2017 at 8:23 AM, Pete Smith wrote:

> Couldn't find it.......
> --
> Cary, NC
>
> No Coach yet but likely center kitchen, dry side bath Royale, 78, 403,
> hopefully with good original white Imron paint.
>
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>
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 Topic: Help save the Sun
Re: Help save the Sun [message #320889 is a reply to message #306745] Sun, 23 July 2017 11:06
Scott Nutter is currently offline  Scott Nutter   United States
Messages: 284
Registered: January 2015
Location: Houston/San Diego
Karma:
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I think Sydney and I can get off work to be there. I figure this crowd needs some "responsible adult supervision". And we ain't it!!!
Any cancellations out there? In the mean time I'll call the campground and see what they have left.
Scott.


Scott Nutter 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater. Houston, Texas
Re: Help save the Sun [message #320890 is a reply to message #306745] Sun, 23 July 2017 11:10
Scott Nutter is currently offline  Scott Nutter   United States
Messages: 284
Registered: January 2015
Location: Houston/San Diego
Karma:
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As expected, campground is full.

Scott Nutter 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, tankless water heater. Houston, Texas
 Topic: Gas Tanks
Gas Tanks [message #320886] Sun, 23 July 2017 10:14
Ken Lit   United States
Messages: 1
Registered: July 2017
Karma:
Junior Member
I have a 1974 260 unit with dual 25 gallon tanks. I am confused as to how the fuel pump draws gas from both the rear main tank and the front aux tank when the dash switch is in the fuel main position. Anyone have a explanation of how this works?
Re: Gas Tanks [message #320891 is a reply to message #320886] Sun, 23 July 2017 11:18
mrgmc3 is currently offline  mrgmc3   United States
Messages: 160
Registered: September 2013
Location: Twin Cities
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The tanks are separate but connected. The connection tube is at about the 6 gallon level, so you can pull 40 plus gallons from full if you leave the switch in either position. Then when you switch over you have 6 or so gallons of "reserve". As the tanks are very flat the fuel easily flows back and forth on grades.

Chris Geils - Twin Cities 1978 26' Kingsley w/ very few mods; Headers, Progressive Dynamics 9040, aux trans cooler, one repaint in stock colors, R134a, Al rad, 50k mi
Re: Gas Tanks [message #320892 is a reply to message #320886] Sun, 23 July 2017 11:32
Tilerpep is currently offline  Tilerpep   United States
Messages: 206
Registered: June 2013
Location: Raleigh, NC
Karma:
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http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6466/medium/GMCfueltanks.jpg

This pic may help. The two tanks slosh into each other via the filler neck until they are low.

So they slosh and both draw dawn from either pickup in either tank, until the last few gallons. So, if you fill up and leave the switch alone (either setting) and run till engine quits, IN THEORY the other tank has a few gallons. When my coach was new to me, this theory led me to waiting an hour and a half for AAA to bring me gas. Ha!

I have recently added an additional low pressure electric pump to my reserve side, but that is to address vapor lock type issues. But my selector switch now chooses which tank AND changes whether it is mechanical fuel pump or mechanical and electric fuel pump. (If this part adds to confusion, ignore, it is not OEM - but is worth checking into if you have heat related fuel delivery issues.)


1975 Glenbrook, 1978 Royale rear bath Raleigh, NC
 Topic: Portable Macerators
icon14.gif  Re: Portable Macerators [message #320870 is a reply to message #320867] Sun, 23 July 2017 07:03
eagleman 73 GMC Sequoia 2 is currently online  eagleman 73 GMC Sequoia 2   United States
Messages: 6
Registered: July 2017
Location: Virginia Beach
Karma:
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When I first bought my GMC in 1992 and had to dump a black tank for the first time, I decided that from my boating experiences that I was definitely going to install a "marine type" macerator. I grouped together the parts needed and installed a system. NEVER EVER was I sorry and NEVER EVER did I have to mess with those nasty expandable waste hoses, gutter supports, donuts, etc.
My permanent solution includes a standard PVC "T" fitting right after the dump valve which continues the old line plus the "T" goes through a standard rubber bushing where the macerator is directly attached. Output of the macerator goes through a permanent heavy duty rubber discharge hose to the back bumper where a standard hose bib is attached. I have a special orange "waste hose" (from Amazon) that is used to discharge to the dump site. Power is off the rear battery and switched on/off by a hidden waterproof switch in the rear storage compartment. Didn't want to mount the switch someplace where someone (kids, curious adults) might flick it just to see what it turned on. I can now dump the entire waste tank faster and cleaner than you can hook up the standard waste system. Usually, I don't even hook up to a waste connection at a campground because the permanent macerator driven system works so easily.
The parts are standard parts from RV shop (or Amazon) and Home Depot and only takes a couple of hours to install. The macerator is mounted between frame rails to the bottom of the rear floor (using a 2-1/2" wooden spacer) where the floor starts to slope up (between my rear Gaucho seats) and the discharge hose and wiring runs along left frame rail. Really simple to install in a couple of hours (honestly) using only a drill, saw and soldering gun. I can send a list of parts and photos if you wish. I recommend a permanent installation and keeping some "screw on" hose caps to re-attach after discharge. You can probably assemble these parts much cheaper than the listed kit price.
Re: [GMCnet] Portable Macerators [message #320872 is a reply to message #320867] Sun, 23 July 2017 07:56
Ken Henderson is currently offline  Ken Henderson   United States
Messages: 7077
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma:
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Ronald,

No question whether that will work. BUT, remember that the lugs on your
sewer connection were never designed to support a heavy motor at the end of
a lever arm and with lanyard (hose) to yank on.

Back When, I had a macerator, water powered and very light weight, attached
that way. I'd just pulled the handle on 50 gallons of black water when the
mounting lugs on the macerator itself failed. A 3" geyser of black stuff
came gushing out. I was able to reach the valve quickly without taking a
bath, so only a fraction of the waste hit the ground.

I was lucky: I was alone at the family farm with 850 acres of privacy
protection and sandy soil. I'd just, for some reason, bought several
gallons of Chlorox. Later that evening we had a 3" rainfall.

In that case the manufacturer admitted problems with the device -- and he'd
designed and built the whole thing. Thetford, Camco, Valterra, etc.,
aren't going to defend the strength of their mounting lugs.

​If I HAD to use that sort of arrangement, I'd mount the pump on a portable
platform to set on the ground, with a short 3" hose to the RV connection.​
But I saved money by mounting it (actually one for gray and one for black)
on the GMC's frame.

Ken H.


On Sun, Jul 23, 2017 at 12:14 AM, Ronald Pottol
wrote:

> I need to get a macerator now, and I'm not going to have the time to
> install one for quite a while. I found this on Amazon, people seem to like
> it,
> any thoughts?
>
> I want to be able to use my coach in my driveway, and dump the tanks into
> the sewer line clean out, 1" would work so much easier with this setup.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007HRMYLC/
>
> http://www.cleandump.com/products.php
> --
>
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: Portable Macerators [message #320873 is a reply to message #320870] Sun, 23 July 2017 08:03
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
Messages: 2661
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma:
Senior Member
At an RV show, I purchased a macerator that is completely water powered. It connects to your sewage drain, has connection in for typical home water hose to supply water power, and connection out for typical home water hose for output. Put the output hose in the dump point, turn on the water line full blast, water pressure breaks up sewage and forces it out into the dump point. I have successfully dumped thru a 50' hose.
Turning the control valve also sends clean water into the sewage system to flush out the tanks (back flush).
This little gem cost about $100. I purchased it after seeing another GMCer using one.
Tom, MS II


1975 GMC Avion KA4CSG
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