| Electrical issues [message #359689] |
Thu, 22 October 2020 11:06  |
rscortezzo
Messages: 49
Registered: January 2007
Location: Green Valley Arizona/ Flo...
Karma: 0
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We were camped in Oregon last night, my wife has COPD and her consontraiter was plugged in blew all 110 volts plugs tried resetting breakers but no voltage, any ideas?
Rich Cortezzo
Green Valley AZ
1978 Eleganza II
F389018
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| [GMCnet] Re: electrical [message #370828 is a reply to message #359689] |
Fri, 16 December 2022 08:04  |
Dolph Santorine
Messages: 1236
Registered: April 2011
Location: Wheeling, WV
Karma: -41
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Dean:
Likely two different issues.
The 15.5 volts means the alternator (a three phase device) is having problems. It will destroy the module in your ignition system if it persists.
When you get a replacement, have the store test it in front of you, even after they try to talk you out of it. The “infant mortality rate” on those Chinese rebuilds is astonishing.
The running on is likely not related, and could be dieseling, something I’ve not had to deal with in a very long time. I would start with checking and adjusting the timing.
Someone else here may have better suggestions.
Dolph Santorine
dolph@dolphsantorine.com
134 Falls Road
Wheeling, WV 26003
Phone: 304-219-3100
FAX: 304-232-3075
> On Dec 16, 2022, at 9:00 AM, Hanson Email wrote:
>
> What's the solution to an alternator putting out 15.5 volts? Replace it?
>
> When the motor is normal temp, it bleeds into ignition somehow and the
> engine continues to run 3 to 4 seconds after turning off the key. That
> doesn't happen when cold.
>
> Dean Hanson Fremont ca
>
> 403 engine
>
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| Re: Electrical issues [message #370834 is a reply to message #359689] |
Fri, 16 December 2022 13:03 |
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RF_Burns
Messages: 2276
Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Seems like most rebuilt alternators these days have a 14.7V regulator. When I tried to buy a replacement regulator, everyone stocked 14.7V units. It maybe Ok for vehicle that just runs around town doing errands and short trips, but we drive for hours at a time. So I ordered a 14.3V regulator.
In the GMC, the 3 wire alternator has a remote voltage sense. This is good for our application because the Isolator has a 0.7V drop across it, plus some voltage loss in the main wire from the alternator. The regulator through the remote voltage sense wire will try to maintain 14.7 volts at the main power feed to the Ignition switch etc.
So 14.7V + 0.7V = 15.4V (plus wire losses) = 15.5V at the output terminal of the alternator. So if that is where you are reading the alternator voltage, that's likely about right.
The High Speed position on the dash HVAC system gets its power from the center terminal of the isolator and takes advantage of the higher voltage here.
Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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| Re: Electrical issues [message #370837 is a reply to message #359689] |
Fri, 16 December 2022 18:22 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Bruce covered the DC side of things. How many Amps (or Watts) does the medical device use per it’s UL label? I find it odd overloading one 15A circuit would cause you to loose all AC power and trip the coach’s 40A mains or pedestals 50A. Perhaps the pedestal has a GFCI and that tripped because of either a nuisance or actual leakage.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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