| Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371441] |
Sat, 08 July 2023 15:24  |
Bob B
Messages: 24
Registered: February 2018
Location: Ten Mile, TN
Karma: 0
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One of the previous owners ripped out the a/c and ventilation installation from the dash of our '76 Ellaganza II, including the fan and controls. Why - who knows? We are looking at installing a new Air Conditioner over the front roof panel and closing the curtain behind seats. Heat is adequate with a 110v heater on the inverter. Has anyone mounted an a/c there? Thoughts?
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371442 is a reply to message #371441] |
Sun, 09 July 2023 07:16  |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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There are several aftermarket A/C units available, Kanomata sells one that fits under dash. I'd do that in lieu pof a roof mount.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371443 is a reply to message #371441] |
Mon, 10 July 2023 07:50 |
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Richard RV
Messages: 631
Registered: July 2012
Location: Full-timer for 12 years, ...
Karma: -17
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Bob,
The front roof cap panel is molded SMC (fiberglass) with stiffening ribs molded into it. There is no other structural framing supporting the panel. Cutting a ~14x14 inch hole through the front cap (and all of the stiffening ribs) and installing a ~100 pound AC up there would be problematic.
I've seen ducted ACs in the OEM location with a plenum/duct running up to the cockpit. One DIY solution used three 2x3 aluminum gutter downspouts running forward and dumping air into the cockpit. It worked, but it required running the generator while driving with the AC.
There are a number of coaches currently being parted out and I rarely see people asking for AC parts. With some legwork and a fair bit of labor maybe you could recreate and improve on the OEM AC, and not have to compromise the front cap structure.
Richard
'77 Birchaven TZE...777;
'76 Palm Beach under construction;
‘76 Edgemont waiting its turn
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371445 is a reply to message #371441] |
Tue, 11 July 2023 10:22 |
lqqkatjon
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
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1st. They removed it probably because it really never worked well. Just not enough airflow on a 76.
2nd. There are pros and cons to a 120v a/c(have to have working generator). Or a dash a/c (engine has to be running).
So both is a good plan. Putting in a vintage air system off a sanden compressor is my advice and then a good roof air in the normal mid location with a working generator will keep you cool.
Nice to have generator/roof air when parked(stop for lunch.. ect.. If you need to work on coach?). And a dash air while traveling is best.
Jon Roche
75 palm beach
EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now.
St. Cloud, MN
http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371446 is a reply to message #371441] |
Tue, 11 July 2023 13:37 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Did not Col Ken and perhaps someone else completely redo the dash and sairflow to a degree that it worked fairly well. When there's power - genset or pedestal - the roof units work fine. There were some pictures, look around.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371447 is a reply to message #371441] |
Sat, 15 July 2023 16:35 |
Greg C.
Messages: 224
Registered: October 2019
Location: Knoxville, TN
Karma: 0
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While mine is a 77, and arguably the better a/c design, it still lacked a lot of cooling due to the convoluted path the air has to take. When I redesigned my dash, I built new fiberglass ducts that came out the top of the factory interior air box and relocated the registers so that they blew at my face instead of at my belt like the original did. Repairing all the leaky seals, the controls, and converting to Duracool resulted in 40 to 45 degree air coming out of the ducts on an 85 degree day.
Bob, there are lots of parts coaches around. Chuck Boyd may have a 77-78 air box in his collection of parts coaches, I'm not sure. Reinstalling a factory air box would give you the opportunity to revamp all the seals on the door flaps and make the A/C work as good as it can. I'm very happy with mine, but that came about by rebuilding the entire dash, something you may not want to get into. I used a Jeep Wrangler control head, which replaced the defective original control. It can be mounted in the factory dash with some work.
The biggest challenge, other than time, is getting the old dash apart enough to work on the A/C without destroying the fragile heat and age damaged plastic. That is why I started from scratch after first trying unsuccessfully to save everything.
A lot of the pictures of my project are on the photo site.
Greg Crawford
KM4ZCR
Knoxville, TN
"Ruby Sue"
1977 Royale
Rear Bath
403 Engine
American Eagle Wheels
Early Version Alex Sirum Quad bags
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| Re: Driver's Cabin A/C and Heat [message #371471 is a reply to message #371447] |
Tue, 22 August 2023 10:06 |
Bill Van Vlack
Messages: 419
Registered: September 2015
Location: Guemes Island, Washington
Karma: 14
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The '76 had a 'Max Air' duct under the dash that bypasses all of the dash ductwork. No Recirc, though.
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid November 2015.
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