| Buzz Box Replacement [message #371397] |
Sun, 04 June 2023 20:20  |
Clark76
Messages: 62
Registered: February 2010
Karma: -2
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I am going to replace my Buzz Box with a Progressive Dynamics PD9245C (As recommended by many of the Forum members), after 47 years of service, (even though it is working Fine). And No, I have not had any Battery Boiling issues with the Buzz Box in the past. I have hesitated to change it due to, "If it Ain't Broke Don't Fix it" mantra - but it is overdue to make this upgrade.
My Coach: 76 GMC Glenbrook: Two 6V Rear Coach Batteries in Series. 12V Engine Battery in Front.
My Question to the electricians out there, is to Wire Gauge Connections of the PD9245.
Or, any other things I should modify with the installation of the PD9245C?
From the current Buzz Box the main Red 4 Gauge wire goes to the original Fuse Bar (Glass Fuses), The Black 4 Gauge wire goes to the Frame somewhere out of sight. There is a 10? Gauge wire that goes from the Fuse Bar out of sight I assume to the Rear Battery Junction (As per the Wiring Diagram).
Specifically, since this a 45amp converter, does this 10? Gauge wire to the Rear Battery Junction need to be improved to a larger size? 6 Gauge? or 4 Gauge? Or, is 10 Gauge OK with the PD9245C?
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371398 is a reply to message #371397] |
Mon, 05 June 2023 03:42  |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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The purpose of the PD, unit or the original buss box, was to supply 12 volt power to house accessories and to also charge the battery as necessary. So all of the charging and accessory use power travel through that 4 ga. wire. The 10 ga. wire only carries charging current and not in house accessory power. So for that reason I did not change my wire size when installing the PD unit 15 years ago. You could easily change it as that few feet of wire only goes from the fuse panel to a junction behind the wall directly behind the unit.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371399 is a reply to message #371397] |
Mon, 05 June 2023 10:14 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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I agree with Ken B. However, while everything's dead, clean and shine all the connections.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371400 is a reply to message #371397] |
Mon, 05 June 2023 16:58 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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I found that the original 10g wire was getting hot, as evidenced by the melted plastic conduit it was in. I replaced it with a 4g or maybe a 6g (I can't remember which). Like Ken B says, it only goes from the converter/charger to the junction terminal in the back of the cabinet.
I have a Trimetric battery meter and when I plug in, or run the Onan, the charge rate jumps up to 45 + amps right away, usually going down fairly quickly, depending on the state of charge in the batteries. While you are in there, I would recommend a change to a heavier wire.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371403 is a reply to message #371399] |
Wed, 07 June 2023 03:16 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Johnny,
I own a 2018 Chevy Equinox with around 50 K on it. Last fall I got a call from a good friend that the hospital up here was transporting him immediately to the IU Hospital in Indy, 150 miles south. They were going to do emergency surgery on him that night or first thing in the AM. I am the closest thing he has to a next of kin. So I headed out of here that way. At 4:30 AM on some side street that did not look to great, my car quit and everything electrical went dead. Nada, Nothing electrical worked. After 10 minutes with me under the hood with a meter checking things like the 5 very large fuses plus the battery cables at the battery, all read 12.7 volts. Then it started up and every thing electrical worked fine again. I later cleaned both battery cables at the battery that looked perfect before I cleaned them.
Seven months later, which was 2 weeks ago, I was going to another hospital up here because a Doctor friend was having brain surgery. My Equinox did the same thing again. After 5 to 10 minutes with the meter it started and I finished my drive to the hospital. No error codes, no bad meter readings, no nothing. Oh well another 7 months from now I will get another shot at this I guess.
Wrong, Last Saturday I was 100 miles away and it did it again. That 7 months turned into one week. I got it started after 10 minutes and drove back home. On the way home I stopped at a Speedway for a hot dog and when I came out it was dead again. You know the story again. All things read good except nothing worked. 10 minutes later I drove it 6 miles home and parked it in my garage. It would not restart there. In the morning it started just fine.
Last night late I decided to clean and polish everything I could find. I did the grounds first. Then the positives which all go to a fuse panel mounted on top of the battery. One 2 gauge cable in and 6 cables out with 5 going through fuses from 40 to 500 amps each. I had to remove the panel to get to the internals to unbolt the 7 wires. The bolts were all tight from slight oxidation in the threads. The cable I worked on last was the main one going to the battery. That nut turned differently than the others. It was hard to move. Upon removal of the lug from the stud it looked good. But there was a little black 1/8"spot on one edge and a matching black spot on the plate where it was bolted to. That was the only contact point for the entire lug. I have owned this car since new and no one has been in there working on this area. This was a case of someone did not tighten the nut properly 5 years ago when the car was built. I cleaned (polished) and anti-Ox greased all connections. That has taken care of the problem. I spent hours last night doing this stuff and tonight it runs fine. Let's see if it still works a week from now.
CLEAN, POLISH, AND GREASE.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371406 is a reply to message #371405] |
Thu, 08 June 2023 00:40 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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I hate it too.
The battery in this case is sealed. As difficult as it was to disconnect and remove, I am wondering what some Tire Monkey at Walmart, or Sam's, or Costco would do to the fuse block assembly when selling and replacing your battery.
Also it locks you into using the exact same battery as a replacement. Any difference in height like battery caps will not fit.
Another thing that bothered me was ALL of the threaded studs (there were 7 of them of three different sizes) were mildly oxidized. They were difficult to turn the nuts off of. The nuts were cleaning out the threads as I removed them. All of this in 5 years and 50,000 miles. So there may still be some acid fumes coming out of the sealed battery. I could spin them back on with my fingers. I took them off a second time and covered the threads with anti-oxidation grease.
Ken B.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371408 is a reply to message #371397] |
Sun, 11 June 2023 10:27 |
kingd
Messages: 592
Registered: June 2004
Karma: 2
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Ken, what is the "brand" of the anti-oxidant grease you use?
I'm not sure the stuff I buy at Canadian Tire is actually correct for where I use it.
Regards
DAVE KING
P.S. how's the HORSE ?
DAVE KING
lurker, wannabe
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371409 is a reply to message #371397] |
Sun, 11 June 2023 19:13 |
cadelec
Messages: 303
Registered: September 2011
Location: Brisbane Australia
Karma: 1
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Rather than replacing cables it might be easier to install a fuse that is a little less than the current carrying capacity of the wire. If the fuse never blows all good. If the fuse blows then you go to the trouble of replacing the cable. Just need to work out which is the easiest way to go
Trevor
Brisbane Australia
Siesta Koala 76 Edgemont (old Bobby Moores)
71 Cadillac Eldo Convert
58 Cadillac Eldorado Brougham Project
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| Re: Buzz Box Replacement [message #371412 is a reply to message #371408] |
Mon, 12 June 2023 00:06 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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I bought it years ago. It is available in the electrical department at most hardware and building supply stores. It is used a lot on aluminum wiring.
"Ideal brand NOALOX" is what I have but I do not know if it is any better or worse than others.
If stored for a while, turn the container over every six months or so. The black and clear components tend to separate over time with black stuff settled on the bottom. I have no idea what it is made of.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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