| Valve cover gaskets [message #371227] |
Fri, 24 March 2023 10:39  |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Morning everyone,
Has any one got any ideals or knowledge on the best valve cover gaskets to use with aluminum heads. I've used every old school trick such as glueing the gasket to the covers with 3m sealer and then putting the purple tacky permatex on the other side and still get seepage especially around bolts. I been using felpro cork/rubber type.
Thanks.
Skip Hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: Valve cover gaskets [message #371228 is a reply to message #371227] |
Fri, 24 March 2023 16:42  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Skip,
The gaskets are rarely the problem. If the cover is stamped steel and you did not flatten the areas where the cover screws load it, you have to start with that. You say you are using the cork and rubber type, they are usually as good as any. But just like anything with cork, if you over tension (torque) the screw, the material either extrude or fracture.
It is really not a good idea to try to bind the gasket to both sides. The cover and the head casting move relative to each other through the operation of the engine. I always tell clients to just pick a side. Then I suggest that it be the easiest side to clean.
I do not know the 3M Sealer to which you reference. Is it intended for engine service? If not, it may be a weather strip adhesive and as such, it will soften at engine temperatures.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Valve cover gaskets [message #371231 is a reply to message #371228] |
Sun, 26 March 2023 18:41 |
skip2
Messages: 544
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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Thanks for the reply, Matt. The 3m is what we use to call gorilla snot, I used to see old timers use it back in the 60-70s in garages i would hang around, so I thought it was the way to go, never thought about the temp rating. I'll definitely find something different this time. I'll make sure and stamp those bolt locations flat, they are sheet metal cover on edelbrock alum. heads. I thought about bolts with flange head bolts with some type of hard sealing washer rated for oil and heat.
Skip Hartline
74 Canyon Lands, FiTech,
3.7 FD LSD, Manny Tranny,
Springfield Distributor,
2001 Chevy Tracker Ragtop Towd
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| Re: Valve cover gaskets [message #371232 is a reply to message #371231] |
Sun, 26 March 2023 20:18 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Skip,
Do you think that you might be the first guy to miss the dish at the screws as an issue? Dream on......
I actually sat down at my lathe one day an made a tool to fix the cover screw dimples for the 455 and this is not the first tool I made to do this. Hammering them on a steel block is the next best bet. If you were in striking range, I would lend you that tool.
Cylinder Head (aka Valve Cover) have only been an issue as long as there have been overhead valve engines. They have to have oil up there and then they have to keep it up there.
I was afraid that you did mean "Gorilla Shot", and with the proximity to the exhaust ports, that stuff will be in trouble but just about anything can make those gaskets leak enough to be messy.
If you have been in this game as long as yours truly, you would have seen a lot of different tries to make cylinder cover gaskets work. The big thing with rubber or rubber/cork gaskets is to not over compress them.
Things that have been tried are:
gaskets supplied with steel insert to limit compression,
upset holes in the cover to stop the screws from crushing the gaskets,
fasteners with a shoulder to limit compression,
heavy stamped steel "birdies" to spread the fastener load,
and this is just to try to make rubber/cork work for the warranty....
It goes on (and on).
Before you set the next ones on, try to borrow a tiny torque wrench and calibrate your wrist to what the manufacturer says they want. You may be surprised. Really, it is closer to screwdriver than it is to socket wrench.
To be completely honest here, I have about a 70% success rate unless there is a built in compression limiter.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Valve cover gaskets [message #371238 is a reply to message #371232] |
Mon, 27 March 2023 19:24 |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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I'm not sure if this will help, but on top of all Matt's excellent suggestions, Try a set of gaskets for a 350 Olds Diesel. They have been discussed here before and IIRC, they have a steel core with silicone faces, and hold their shape really well.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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