| Transmission Mount Fastener Best Practices [message #370028] |
Sat, 25 June 2022 13:13  |
Jess Bressi Cortez
Messages: 16
Registered: February 2014
Location: Orange County, CA
Karma: 0
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Junior Member |
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Greetings all. I am reinstalling a rebuilt trans. On the rear three transmission mount bolts that bolt into the alloy transmission case, what does the hive recommend? Grade 5 bolts, plain washers, split lock washers and then Locktite Blue or Red? Same question bellhousing to engine bolts? Locktite Red on torque converter bolts? Anything on the final drive nuts and bolts? Thanks in advance.
Jess Bressi
Orange County, CA
1972 and 1974 Cortez's
455's/3.70's/Patterson Q-Jets
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| Re: Transmission Mount Fastener Best Practices [message #370030 is a reply to message #370028] |
Sat, 25 June 2022 18:16  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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Jees,
I am guessing that you are asking about the three HHCS that fasten the rear mount plate over the chain cover. Right?
According to the manual, those are a grade 5 5/16 fastener. They can't take a lot. Flat and lock washers will always be welcome.
As to Locktite or other, they don't need it. I almost think you could set the drive line down in the frame and just run it that way.
For the fasteners to the final drive, you will end up leaving out at least one and maybe two. Don't feel bad, the designer that drew those in had no idea what he was doing.
Locktite on the torque converter fasteners is a good idea. Those are hard to get to when things are assembled.
When setting the transmission to the engine, it is very easy to have the converter slide forward and then nothing fits. If you hit this, just stop and back up. Slide the converter back were it goes and try again. There is no good way to hold it in place that won't be in the road when you are trying to do the mate-up.
Now, those little 12pt jobs that hold the drive axel, those are a single pass torque to yield if you crank the to recommended torque. Best to buy a new set. You can inspect them by messing the threads and see if any have stretched (most likely some will) those that have are scrap. The manuals call for a hardened lock washer on those. Those are very hard to find.
GM dealers may have stock.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Transmission Mount Fastener Best Practices [message #370037 is a reply to message #370028] |
Sun, 26 June 2022 07:10 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
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Senior Member |
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I take the position that the FD bolts are there for a reason. You can in fact get all of them (one's a nut on a stud)but the upper inner is a colossal pia. it wants a curved or short box wrench. Done correctly, you can move it one (1) point per move of the wrench. Plan on 30 minutes for that one. The others are merely reach and twist.
I'll point out, in another life i spent a year or two repairing bent light planes. This taught me how to reach into tight spaces and work with things I couldn't see.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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| Re: Transmission Mount Fastener Best Practices [message #370039 is a reply to message #370028] |
Sun, 26 June 2022 08:22 |
blur911
Messages: 166
Registered: December 2020
Location: Kingston, Ontario
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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If you need lockwashers on something important I would highly recommend https://www.nord-lock.com/shop/buy-here/
Where I worked we used to have significant maintenance issues with parts coming loose. Our head engineer decreed we were to use Nord-lock washers on everything and failures from this dropped to practically zero.
Burl Vibert
Kingston, Ontario
1976 GMC 26 foot, Sheridan reno, don't know original model but we call her Roxie
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