Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Rear Hatch Bolts
| Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 13:33  |
Tom Katzenberger
Messages: 399
Registered: June 2019
Location: Kingsville, MD
Karma: 4
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Hello All,
Inquiry on opinions again. Should I replace my rear hatch bolts prior to painting the coach? All opinions are welcome, none will I criticize.
Thanks again,
Tom K.
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee Ignition
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368435 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 13:43  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Unless they are rusty, I wouldn't see any reason to replace them. They can be a bear to get out as well. Probably not worth the effort, in my opinion.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368436 is a reply to message #368435] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 14:46 |
CJV
Messages: 49
Registered: December 2021
Karma: 1
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I would replace them. When I'm bored I take out the standard screws and bolts and replace them with SS. When I built my Malibu street rod, I reassembled it using only SS. Sure mad getting back into something a lot easier.
CJ Vermeulen, Scribbler
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Stouffer"
To: "gmclist"
Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2022 1:43:28 PM
Subject: [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts
Unless they are rusty, I wouldn't see any reason to replace them. They can be a bear to get out as well. Probably not worth the effort, in my
opinion.
--
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles,
Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368437 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 15:08 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Aren’t they a special type thread? I did not see them at Applied under body.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368439 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 17:20 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Jim I took it as big Philips special screws holding on the rear hatch. Not general hardware.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368442 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 18:31 |
boybach
Messages: 566
Registered: December 2020
Location: Vancouver Island
Karma: 4
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I don't know what the rear hatch is
Larry
Larry - Victoria BC -
1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat exchange hoses
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| [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368443 is a reply to message #368442] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 18:53 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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That big rear window is not technically referred to as a "hatch". It does
not have hinges, and is a true bugger to open and close without creating
some leaks and stripped threads and broken fasteners. It's principal
purpose was to allow all the interior modules to be installed during
construction of the coach. Those coaches were backed up to a dock like
structure that a pallet jack could roll up to at coach floor height and
roll those modules into place. When they were all in place, that rear
window was sealed into place and screwed shut. If it were me, I would leave
it alone. Been there, done that. Got the "T" shirt that says "It's just a
GMC thing, you probably won't understand" (grin)
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Thu, Jan 13, 2022, 4:31 PM wrote:
> I don't know what the rear hatch is
>
> Larry
> --
> Larry - Victoria BC -
>
> 1977 ex-Palm Beach "Ol' Leaky" 40,000 miles, PO said everything working
> but forgot the word NOT. Atwood helium fridge, water heater & furnace. SS
> exhaust system, Onan, Iota Converter, R134A, New fuel lines & heat
> exchange hoses
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368444 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 20:15 |
Tom Katzenberger
Messages: 399
Registered: June 2019
Location: Kingsville, MD
Karma: 4
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Thanks everyone!
Jim, Yes I did mean the large glass window panel, but your tip on the generator and opposite cover (23' Birchaven) is well taken and I will remove them both before painting (very nice tip, Thank you).
I had one rear window bolt come out, I will re-install with JB weld and call it a day.
I don't know if there are any leaks as the coach was in indoor storage for 30 years. I did remove all the joint sealant and will have the shop sand the surface. I have 2 shops giving me a price, when the second price comes in I will make a decision. I am looking at a single stage Bone/Off White color and fine burgundy striping on the side. Same as my old coach.
Guys, thanks again for all the advice, opinions and suggestions everyone has been such a great help.
Have a wonderful evening and thanks again,
Tom K.
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee Ignition
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| [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368445 is a reply to message #368434] |
Thu, 13 January 2022 20:24 |
GMCWiperMan
Messages: 1248
Registered: December 2007
Karma: 1
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Tom,
I haven't seen (or don't remember) any comments about the gap around that
rear "hatch". In the past a lot of people have tried different things. I
sealed mine with urethane caulk, after checking with the manufacturer that
it would withstand automotive paint. Their "Yes" answer was only correct
in that the caulk stood up OK to the paint, but the paint didn't adhere
well to the caulk -- 4-5 years later I had a flaking mess.
If I were doing it again, I'd follow the suggestion of those who said use
small tubing (like vacuum hose) forced into the gap -- AFTER painting. But
I'm not going to repaint for the few years, at most, I'll be using the GMC.
Ken H.
On Thu, Jan 13, 2022 at 2:33 PM wrote:
> Hello All,
>
> Inquiry on opinions again. Should I replace my rear hatch bolts prior to
> painting the coach? All opinions are welcome, none will I criticize.
>
> Thanks again,
> Tom K.
> --
> Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
> Kingsville, Maryland,
> 1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control,
> Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
> Ignition
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
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| Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368449 is a reply to message #368434] |
Fri, 14 January 2022 07:39 |
Tom Katzenberger
Messages: 399
Registered: June 2019
Location: Kingsville, MD
Karma: 4
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Senior Member |
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Ken,
The vacuum tube sounds like a great idea and I will do that.
Thanks again and stay healthy,
Tom K.
Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
Kingsville, Maryland,
1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control, Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee Ignition
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| [GMCnet] Re: Rear Hatch Bolts [message #368453 is a reply to message #368449] |
Fri, 14 January 2022 11:01 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Second third and fourth the don’t remove the rear outer body panel advice.
Once those screws and the panel removed it is fairly difficult to re
establish a solid mount and good seal. The screw sockets or holes start out
as slightly undersize smooth holes. The screw cuts it’s own threads as it
is inserted. The rear panel is made out of SMC which is very hard and stiff
but also brittle. Once the screw has made its hole and tightened a solid
mechanical connection is made. If the screws come out some of the now loose
smc falls out of the hole. Next time the screw is installed there is less
material for the threads the get purchase. Add in the need to position (and
seal)the rear panel with torquing those bolts in sequence and many will
pull what little threads that remain in the smc holes. I would only remove
the rear panel if it was absolutely necessary. The vacuum hose (stretched
to fit rather than stuffed) works very well for sealing that joint and can
be done after paint. You might consider something a little less permanent
in the hole where you lost a screw. Polyurethane caulk for example. Some
day down the road you or someone else might need to remove that panel.
Sully
Bellevue wa
On Fri, Jan 14, 2022 at 5:39 AM wrote:
> Ken,
>
> The vacuum tube sounds like a great idea and I will do that.
>
> Thanks again and stay healthy,
> Tom K.
> --
> Tom & Oki Katzenberger,
> Kingsville, Maryland,
> 1977 23' Birchaven, 455 C.I.D., Micro Level, Howell EBL-EFI Spark Control,
> Macerator, York Air Compressor, 6 Wheel Disc, Quadra Bag, Onan W/Bovee
> Ignition
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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