Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Rear ramps for the front?
| Rear ramps for the front? [message #356568] |
Thu, 09 July 2020 08:00  |
6cuda6
Messages: 975
Registered: June 2019
Karma: -6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Anyone use the home made rear ramps on the front? Curious to know if the angle of approach is to steep etc....i need to do the timing chain and the ramps seem like a simple and safe solution for raising the front.
Rich Mondor,
Brockville, ON
77 Hughes 2600
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368847 is a reply to message #368837] |
Sat, 19 February 2022 19:13  |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s fine for front or rear.
-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
> On Feb 19, 2022, at 12:18 PM, Bob Braaf wrote:
>
> Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller wood.
> But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and 2x6's spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out wider
> than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at the
> width of, or overhung by, the tires?
>
> Bob Braaf
> '76 Eleganza II
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368848 is a reply to message #368847] |
Sat, 19 February 2022 19:44 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1500
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I used to have the Rino ramps. Last time I used them was when I backed down
and I gave it a little too much gas and shot the ramps 25 feet out in front
of the coach, I was on the street with a fairly steep grade so I had to
give it some gas to back down off of ramps.
On Sat, Feb 19, 2022 at 6:13 PM Dave Stragand wrote:
> I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s
> fine for front or rear.
>
> -Dave
> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>
>> On Feb 19, 2022, at 12:18 PM, Bob Braaf wrote:
>>
>> Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design
> shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller
> wood.
>> But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and 2x6's
> spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out
> wider
>> than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side
> to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at
> the
>> width of, or overhung by, the tires?
>>
>> Bob Braaf
>> '76 Eleganza II
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
LaGrange, Wyoming
GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368849 is a reply to message #368848] |
Sat, 19 February 2022 19:54 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
My professional opinion goes like this:
2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
the rear suspension.
This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
On Sat, Feb 19, 2022, 5:44 PM Bruce Hart wrote:
> I used to have the Rino ramps. Last time I used them was when I backed down
> and I gave it a little too much gas and shot the ramps 25 feet out in front
> of the coach, I was on the street with a fairly steep grade so I had to
> give it some gas to back down off of ramps.
>
> On Sat, Feb 19, 2022 at 6:13 PM Dave Stragand wrote:
>
>> I think it is much easier to just use 2x10s. That’s what I used and it’s
>> fine for front or rear.
>>
>> -Dave
>> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
>>
>>> On Feb 19, 2022, at 12:18 PM, Bob Braaf wrote:
>>>
>>> Question about the ramp construction shown in the standard ramp design
>> shown in this thread. The materials list shows 2x8's and some smaller
>> wood.
>>> But the dwg shows the ramp width to be 10 inches. Are the 2x4 and
> 2x6's
>> spread enough to make the 10 inch width? Does that make them stick out
>> wider
>>> than the 2x8's, or you really using 2x10's or 2x12's? How stable (side
>> to side) are the ones made from 2x8's? Seems like they would be right at
>> the
>>> width of, or overhung by, the tires?
>>>
>>> Bob Braaf
>>> '76 Eleganza II
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> GMCnet mailing list
>>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>
>
>
> --
> Bruce Hart
> 1976 Palm Beach
> LaGrange, Wyoming
> GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368852 is a reply to message #368849] |
Sun, 20 February 2022 07:46 |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something else?
-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh
> On Feb 19, 2022, at 8:55 PM, James Hupy wrote:
>
> My professional opinion goes like this:
> 2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
> where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
> 4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
> where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
> the rear suspension.
> This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
> If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
> Jim Hupy
> Salem, Oregon
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368853 is a reply to message #368849] |
Sun, 20 February 2022 08:01 |
rjw
Messages: 697
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
James Hupy wrote on Sat, 19 February 2022 20:54My professional opinion goes like this:
2 ea. 6 ton rated steel jack stands for the front, positioned on the frame
where the front clip bolts to the frame rails. (Not Harbour freight)
4 ea. 3 ton rated steel jack stands on the rear of the coach, positioned
where the cross members intersect with the side rails both before and after
the rear suspension.
This is assuming the coach is on a level concrete floor.
If you are on gravel or sod, you are on your own.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Oregon
My approach is bit different. I have 3, 3 ton floor jacks that I use to raise my GMC. One under each bogey and one under the center of the main cross member in the front to get it up.
Then I then use an assortment of 6x6 x 36" and 4x4 x 36" timbers to make cribbing at 4 places on the frame. I also keep the jacks in place for extra security.
Somehow I don't trust jack stands alone when I'm crawling around under 6 tons of GMC.
By the way, Harbor Freight has upped their game. The floor jacks I use are new from Harbor Freight (got them on sale last year) and they seem to be of higher quality as opposed to what they sold in the past.
https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/3-ton-low-profile-super-duty-rapid-pump-floor-jack-candy-apple-metallic-red-575 89.html
With them, I can raise my GMC almost 2 feet.
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com
Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water heaters.
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368854 is a reply to message #368853] |
Sun, 20 February 2022 08:14 |
rjw
Messages: 697
Registered: September 2005
Karma: 4
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Quote: I then use an assortment of 6x6 x 36" and 4x4 x 36" timbers to make cribbing at 4 places on the frame. I also keep the jacks in place for extra security.
Actually the timbers I use are 24" long instead of 36". I like to use them when I have all 6 wheels off as I did last year when overhauling the front and rear suspension.
Richard
76 Palm Beach
SE Michigan
www.PalmBeachGMC.com
Roller Cam 455, TBI+EBL, 3.42 FD, 4 Bag, Macerator, Lenzi (brakes, vacuum system, front end stuff), Manny Tranny, vacuum step, Tankless + OEM water heaters.
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368855 is a reply to message #368852] |
Sun, 20 February 2022 09:06 |
 |
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Dave Stragand wrote on Sun, 20 February 2022 08:46Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something else?
-Dave
1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:
I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.
Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn. I found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.
Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now use 4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.
I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368858 is a reply to message #368855] |
Sun, 20 February 2022 09:55 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I would not trust a jack stand on gravel. Period. If you must work over
gravel (I feel really bad for you) I would only use solid wood cribbing.
Ideally stacks of blocks cut from laminated wood beams as they will not
split. If laminated wood scraps are not available then solid wood blocks
laid flat so load is parallel with grain. Do not use blocking with any
cracks present.
Sully
Bellevue wa
On Sun, Feb 20, 2022 at 7:06 AM Matt Colie wrote:
> Dave Stragand wrote on Sun, 20 February 2022 08:46
>> Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on
> gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What is
>> the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something
> else?
>>
>> -Dave
>> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:
>
> I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.
>
> Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn. I
> found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.
>
> Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces
> to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now use
> 4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.
>
> I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that
> is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
> GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
|
|
|
|
| [GMCnet] Re: Rear ramps for the front? [message #368873 is a reply to message #368858] |
Mon, 21 February 2022 07:43 |
Bruce Hart
Messages: 1500
Registered: October 2011
Location: La Grange, Wyoming
Karma: 5
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I have 3/8" pieces of aluminum plate that I use to support jack stands and
floor jack when I have to lift the coach on dirt or gravel.
On Sun, Feb 20, 2022 at 8:56 AM Todd Sullivan wrote:
> I would not trust a jack stand on gravel. Period. If you must work over
> gravel (I feel really bad for you) I would only use solid wood cribbing.
> Ideally stacks of blocks cut from laminated wood beams as they will not
> split. If laminated wood scraps are not available then solid wood blocks
> laid flat so load is parallel with grain. Do not use blocking with any
> cracks present.
>
> Sully
> Bellevue wa
> On Sun, Feb 20, 2022 at 7:06 AM Matt Colie wrote:
>
>> Dave Stragand wrote on Sun, 20 February 2022 08:46
>>> Which brings up a great question. For those of us who have to work on
>> gravel or asphalt, the jack stands need to be placed on something. What
> is
>>> the best option? Plywood, 2x10s, concrete patio blocks or something
>> else?
>>>
>>> -Dave
>>> 1978 Transmode near Pittsburgh ons:
>>
>> I don't have an answer, but I have some observations.
>>
>> Sometimes I have to jack a coach out on the gravel in front of my barn.
> I
>> found that jack stands that have feet will punch through 3/4 plywood.
>>
>> Jack stands placed on dimensional like 2*6 or 2*8 can cause these pieces
>> to tilt on the less-than-solid surface. When I have to do this, I now
> use
>> 4ea 2*X across each other. That way the tilt goes away.
>>
>> I still would prefer to jack on the concrete floor of the barn, but that
>> is not always an option because the door is too low for most coaches.
>>
>> Matt
>> --
>> Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL,
>> GMCES
>> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum
>> Brakes with Applied Control Arms
>> SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>
--
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
LaGrange, Wyoming
GMC=Genetically Modified Chevy
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
Bruce Hart
1976 Palm Beach
1977 28' Kingsley
La Grange, Wyoming
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Wed May 15 16:52:36 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.04350 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
