| Re: [GMCnet] Door Latch repair [message #357162 is a reply to message #357149] |
Fri, 24 July 2020 17:43   |
MikeB
Messages: 133
Registered: December 2018
Location: South Bama
Karma: 1
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jimk wrote on Fri, 24 July 2020 09:38We do supply the modified Latch assembly.
Just take the measurements and we will be able to send one that is correct
length.
There is no reason to have to force shut the door.
Also a touch of light Lub cannot heart.
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.gmcrvparts.com
1-800-752-7502
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Hi Jim
My latch works fine and I just bought the solid striker plate and pin from you. There is nothing wrong with the size or quality of the pin. It just requires me to line the latch jaws perfectly with the pin or it won’t work.
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
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| Re: Door Latch repair [message #357163 is a reply to message #357157] |
Fri, 24 July 2020 17:56 |
MikeB
Messages: 133
Registered: December 2018
Location: South Bama
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Hi Bill
This whole project started due to my hacked up door. It originally was over curved at bottom causing a lot of effort to close. I believe it was you that recommended the 2x4 at bottom of door technique. I did that and it improved substantially but still required above average effort to double latch. And yes I’ve removed everything to test door fitment. It’s fine except the top needs slight recurring and now the striker pin needs to be lowered about 1/8”.
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
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| Re: Door Latch repair [message #357165 is a reply to message #357163] |
Fri, 24 July 2020 19:48 |
Bill Van Vlack
Messages: 419
Registered: September 2015
Location: Guemes Island, Washington
Karma: 14
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You have to wonder what moved to make the striker pin so high. Perhaps it's the cantilevered section of the floor between the frame and the skin that's sagged. I think that Orlando outfit adds stiffeners along the frame as a countermeasure. It probably involves gutting the coach.
Bill Van Vlack
'76 Royale; Guemes Island, Washington; Twin bed, full (DS) side bath, Brazilian Redwood counter and settee tops,455, 6KW generator; new owner a/o mid November 2015.
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| Re: Door Latch repair [message #357166 is a reply to message #357165] |
Fri, 24 July 2020 20:00 |
MikeB
Messages: 133
Registered: December 2018
Location: South Bama
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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Bill Van Vlack wrote on Fri, 24 July 2020 19:48You have to wonder what moved to make the striker pin so high. Perhaps it's the cantilevered section of the floor between the frame and the skin that's sagged. I think that Orlando outfit adds stiffeners along the frame as a countermeasure. It probably involves gutting the coach.
The door is a mess. The hinges look like they’ve been repaired several times at the door and the coach. They are solid but cobbled and maybe out of shape a bit. I replaced the pins and brass inserts but that didn’t do much. The original strike pin will allow some misalignment so I’m hoping dropping the pin around 1/16” may give me reasonably effort latching.
M Beam
75’ Avion
TBI EBL , 3.70 LSD and other stuff
Zuki Sidekick,
Dozier Al
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| Re: Door Latch repair [message #371466 is a reply to message #357155] |
Thu, 17 August 2023 12:57 |
rgogan
Messages: 82
Registered: February 2004
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Karma: 0
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Greatly appreciate the info on this subject of getting proper door latching.
I did the following to correct my door not latching properly:
Removed the striker plate and pin and found the door closed all the way without obstruction and the gasket was noted to fit tightly to the frame.
Noted an indentation on the door gasket from the striker plate. Didn't know for sure if this was causing trouble but followed Jim Bounds recommendation and removed the outboard side of the plate down to the outer (outboard) bolt holes with an angle grinder with the plate removed.
BTW, I found the easiest way to remove the inboard retaining nuts, washers and lock washers from the screws was to hold them in place with a finger inserted through the refrigerator vent hole. Then remove the screw and replace it with a 5 inch or longer 5/16" bolt and then push the bolt in toward the frig vent hole to allow easier removal of the nuts and washers without dropping them. Same procedure was used for reinstallation.
Shaving the outboard side of the plate did not help. Still would not latch properly. Found the pin was position too high. The pin is 16mm in diameter and the opening of the locking jaws is 22mm. My pin was positioned too high. I removed the plate again and ground the outer(outboard) frame mounting hole downward about 3mm. Care was taken to do one hole at a time to avoid losing the retaining plate. This allowed repositioning the plate and locking pin lower. Inboard bolt holes were already plenty large for this adjustment.
Success. Door closes with one finger. No longer slamming it shut.
Good luck to all with similar problems. I have owned this MH for 29 years and finally got around to fixing this annoying problem with the help of this forum. Keep up the good work.
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