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Bullitthead re bath door repair [message #328544] Tue, 23 January 2018 13:42 Go to next message
midlf is currently offline  midlf   United States
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Bullitthead wrote on Tue, 23 January 2018 08:55
almost stock interior, except for the bathroom door being removed for repair(which was a can of worms best left alone, even if it was damaged). In the carport now, so rain is not a factor in viewing it.


What problems are you having with the repair. Mine is getting loose where the door is bonded to the hinge.


Steve Southworth
1974 Glacier TZE064V100150 (for workin on)
1975 Transmode TZE365V100394 (parts & spares)
Palmyra WI
Re: Bullitthead re bath door repair [message #328545 is a reply to message #328544] Tue, 23 January 2018 14:23 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bullitthead is currently offline  Bullitthead   United States
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Steve,
I had cosmetic damage from loose cargo that smashed a dent in the outside laminate. This door is made with an aluminum frame with the inside Formica bonded (glued, no screws)to it, and a cardboard honeycomb bonded to the Formica to fill the inside of the door. Then another sheet of woodgrain Formica is bonded to the cardboard and the frame. I'm sure it was all done on a large platen with hot sprayed glue and a press and then the outside edges were machined perfect to the aluminum frame. 3 flimsy pieces and some cardboard and glue make something so strong you could use it as a bunk bed for an adult. Got it apart now and can't find a glue to effectively bond the Formica chips back together.

My hinges are screwed to the aluminum frame, not bonded, so your construction must be different. Unless you are saying the frame has come unbonded from the Formica panels, in which case you are in the same boat as me, needing a good glue to rebond the panels to aluminum or anything else. Cyanoacrylate (superglue)does not work on naked broken Formica, wood glue worked better, everything else rubs off. GM had it years ago, but I'm sure there was some equipment involved... looks like sprayed on red contact cement.


Terry Kelpien ASE Master Technician 73 Glacier 260 Smithfield, Va.
Re: Bullitthead re bath door repair [message #328550 is a reply to message #328545] Tue, 23 January 2018 17:09 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
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I fixed mine with gorilla glue. (I believe it is water / moisture activated polyurethane.) Just make sure to clamp it well over night while it sets up as it will expand. If you use too much it will expand out of the seams. It can be cleaned up easily with a razor blade. I usually trim it before it is fully set up.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana

[Updated on: Wed, 24 January 2018 04:18]

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Re: Bullitthead re bath door repair [message #328551 is a reply to message #328545] Tue, 23 January 2018 17:13 Go to previous message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Bullitthead wrote on Tue, 23 January 2018 15:23
Steve,
I had cosmetic damage from loose cargo that smashed a dent in the outside laminate. This door is made with an aluminum frame with the inside Formica bonded (glued, no screws)to it, and a cardboard honeycomb bonded to the Formica to fill the inside of the door. Then another sheet of woodgrain Formica is bonded to the cardboard and the frame. I'm sure it was all done on a large platen with hot sprayed glue and a press and then the outside edges were machined perfect to the aluminum frame. 3 flimsy pieces and some cardboard and glue make something so strong you could use it as a bunk bed for an adult. Got it apart now and can't find a glue to effectively bond the Formica chips back together.

My hinges are screwed to the aluminum frame, not bonded, so your construction must be different. Unless you are saying the frame has come unbonded from the Formica panels, in which case you are in the same boat as me, needing a good glue to rebond the panels to aluminum or anything else. Cyanoacrylate (superglue)does not work on naked broken Formica, wood glue worked better, everything else rubs off. GM had it years ago, but I'm sure there was some equipment involved... looks like sprayed on red contact cement.

Terry,

You are right in that they were assembled with a spray adhesive. At least mine were.
When they delaminated, I put them back together with moistened Gorilla Glue (a single part moisture activated polyurethane). I was ready for it to swell on cure, so I had it supported on some 2*6 as strongbacks and used about forty clamps (when my father and I built boats and spares we needed lots) to hold it from swelling and puckering during curing. I could not use an epoxy as it needed to fill a number of gaps that were probably OE.

Both that and the hanging locker (closet) door are good now.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
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