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| [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326382] |
Sun, 26 November 2017 19:56  |
BobDunahugh
Messages: 2465
Registered: October 2010
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Karma: 11
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Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2 inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place. Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326388 is a reply to message #326382] |
Mon, 27 November 2017 05:10  |
Will Albers
Messages: 183
Registered: November 2017
Location: Detroit MI (Belleville)
Karma: 2
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Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
might be.
On Nov 26, 2017 8:57 PM, "Bob Dunahugh" wrote:
> Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
> were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
> repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about 1-1/2
> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
> area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to the
> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router to
> 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
> floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
> Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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1978 Palm Beach.
Detroit Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326400 is a reply to message #326388] |
Mon, 27 November 2017 10:26 |
sgltrac
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Replacing the whole panel is not hard assuming you have everything that
sits on top of it,anything that passes through it and anything which might
be pinned to the underside removed. Just pulling screws from there.
Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue.
On Mon, Nov 27, 2017 at 3:11 AM Will wrote:
> Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
>
> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging it
> might be.
>
> On Nov 26, 2017 8:57 PM, "Bob Dunahugh" wrote:
>
>> Check your floor thickness. 73-4 were 1 inch. 75 up were 3/4. Area on all
>> were 1 inch above engine as I recall. All were marine grade. For areas
>> that aren't resting on a floor supports. Make a patch for the area to be
>> repaired. Draw it's shape on the floor. Then draw another line about
> 1-1/2
>> inch inboard of the patch line. This will allow you to remove damaged
>> area without damaging the insulation below the floor. Set you router to
> the
>> floor thickness. Cut to the inside of the inter line. Set your router
> to
>> 1/2 the thickness of the floor. Use the router to remove the area between
>> the two lines on the floor. Next repeat this to the bottom of the patch
>> floor panel. Use a good water proof wood glue. Install some flat head
>> screws to hold the patch while glue sets. I left the screws in place.
>> Haven't found the photos yet. This proved to be extremely strong. Bob
>> Dunahugh 78 Royale Cell 319-521-4891 Iowa
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>>
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Sully
77 Royale basket case.
Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list)
Seattle, Wa.
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326405 is a reply to message #326404] |
Mon, 27 November 2017 13:39 |
Will Albers
Messages: 183
Registered: November 2017
Location: Detroit MI (Belleville)
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Matt. Mine is completely visible at the moment as well. (Minus the
bathroom and closet. The panel which runs from the door to the kitchen is
in the worst shape, but also houses frame bolts. In this case, i plan to
patch vs replace. The center of the wood is in fine shape.
Some good news - I was able to get the Onan running very well!
I'll contact Forest now.
On Nov 27, 2017 2:14 PM, "Matt Colie" wrote:
> Will Albers wrote on Mon, 27 November 2017 06:10
>> Thank you. Makes perfect sense. We're the 3/4 boards in 78 true 3/4, or
> will I have to adjust slightly for new lumber dimensions?
>>
>> Also, have you ever replaced a whole panel? I'm curious have challenging
> it might be.
>
> Will,
>
> Two things..
>
> If you want to see how the floor is put in, give Nichole a call. Her
> floor is completely visible - at least at the moment.
>
> If you really want to know how to deal with the water damage, you need to
> call Forest Crow (in the Black List). He has done it all. He might even be
> at the December SEMNO GMC Owner's Network Meeting (formerly the Lunch
> Bunch).
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
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1978 Palm Beach.
Detroit Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326428 is a reply to message #326424] |
Tue, 28 November 2017 08:02 |
Justin Brady
Messages: 769
Registered: April 2015
Location: Bell Buckle, TN
Karma: 11
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To remove whole panels (I removed all of them) an impact driver is almost a necessity. Those screws are not stainless and have galled in the aluminum and are hell to remove without an impact. The impact makes quick work of them. It's an indespensible tool. An air compressor with a fine blower nozzle helps a lot as well as the screws are countersunk an the heads are filled with years of sawdust and debris. Blow them out after picking at them with a pick to ensure that the to driver fits all the way down in there so you don't strip the screws.
The rear panels are also glued down with panel bond adhesive.
The rear panels extend under the wheel wells so they have to come out to remove the floor panel.
If you can cut and route a panel to fill go that route, or epoxy, either works.
Justin Brady
http://www.thegmcrv.com/
1976 Palm Beach 455
[Updated on: Tue, 28 November 2017 08:04] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326436 is a reply to message #326429] |
Tue, 28 November 2017 10:37 |
Dave Stragand
Messages: 307
Registered: October 2017
Karma: 0
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For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
manual (no air compressor required).
You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
while also providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much
less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force
that is equally applied.
They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
-Dave
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of
Johnny Bridges via Gmclist
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2017 9:05 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Cc: Johnny Bridges
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair.
Here's how to get the screws out:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-7-5-in-Impact-Driver-Kit-648002/2
04505142?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools%7c&gc
lid=EAIaIQobChMIl_21yrfh1wIV1bXACh3_zQRJEAQYASABEgLtZ_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
&dclid=CKD-rtK34dcCFU1XAQodzusAVQ
And a set of these:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-1-in-Steel-Torx-Security-Bit-Set-7-Pi
ece-DWA1TS-7V/301313336
You might find them a bit less on eBay too.
--johnny
--
76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
"I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to
me in hell" - ol Andy, paraphrased
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1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326439 is a reply to message #326436] |
Tue, 28 November 2017 11:19 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Dave Stragand wrote on Tue, 28 November 2017 11:37For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
manual (no air compressor required).
You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw, while also providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally applied.
They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
-Dave
1978 Transmode (403)
Pittsburgh, PA
Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they used to be. Just like everything else.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326450 is a reply to message #326439] |
Tue, 28 November 2017 16:08 |
Will Albers
Messages: 183
Registered: November 2017
Location: Detroit MI (Belleville)
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Added to the Xmas list. I don't have one of those!
On Nov 28, 2017 12:19 PM, "Matt Colie" wrote:
> Dave Stragand wrote on Tue, 28 November 2017 11:37
>> For those of you who have not used an impact driverl, it is totally
>> manual (no air compressor required).
>>
>> You place it on the screw and strike the end with a hammer. It
> simultaneously keeps the screwdriver head securely seated in the screw,
> while also
>> providing the twisting force to loosen it. There is much less chance of
> stripping out the screw head due to the seating force that is equally
>> applied.
>>
>> They are a 'must have' tool for old motorcycles, and mine has earned its
> weight in gold over the years. Well worth the small expenditure!
>>
>> -Dave
>> 1978 Transmode (403)
>> Pittsburgh, PA
>
> Having been down this road with lots of seized and corroded stuff. I can
> tell you that if you are working on old stuff, it is worth your while to
> hunt up and acquire a KD Tools 1140. If used as directed, it will loosen
> any screws that are removable and maybe even a few that are not....
>
> They also work well without high pressure air or electric power.
>
> The real advantage of the KD version is the heavier body. This makes more
> of the twist go to the bit and not your hand. If you are as old a some of
> us, you remember KD tools very well, but they are now GearWrench/KD so
> finding them may be at bit of a problem. They also are not as cheap as they
> used to be. Just like everything else.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
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1978 Palm Beach.
Detroit Michigan
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| Re: [GMCnet] Floor repair. [message #326455 is a reply to message #326454] |
Tue, 28 November 2017 17:16 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
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Senior Member |
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Those bits that come with the inexpensive Hand Impact drivers are pretty
much worthless. I have two hand impact drivers, a 3/8 drive, and a 1/2"
drive. They both were purchased back in my motorcycle repair days. The 3/8
drive has the square drive projecting from the handle, and bits that fit
onto the square drive like a socket. They are very high quality and hold up
very well.
The 1/2 inch drive has a chuck that fits the square drive, and the small
bits go in the chuck. The small bits are of poor quality and break
frequently. I might consider them consumables. Lots of spares are needed.
The main thing to remember, is to keep down pressure on the handle, and
don't let your skin creep up onto the hammer striking area. Make sure to be
square and plumb before you strike with the hammer. They will take Japanese
motorcycle case screws out when nothing else will work. Be sure to exactly
match the bit to the screw heads. There is Phillips, Reed & Prince,
Posi-drive, and possibly more, as well as U.S.S., D.I.N., and I.S.O. tapers
on the heads.
What I know.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403
On Nov 28, 2017 2:52 PM, "Thomas Phipps" wrote:
> My experience with the hand-held impact tools, they tend to break the tips
> off Philips head screws. Other than that, nice to hae around.
> Tom
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
>
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