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isolation pad installation [message #323393] Tue, 05 September 2017 11:24 Go to next message
tgeiger is currently offline  tgeiger   United States
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Registered: February 2006
Location: kansas city
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Senior Member
Ok, am getting myself ready for installing the new 5/8" pads on the motorhome. Had a couple of questions pertaining to what I see posted as the procedure for it. It looks like the new pads are turned 90 degrees in their installation as to how the old ones seem to be on the coach, where the length of them run in the direction of the steel frame. I know it appears that they are installed at a 90 to allow the SS screws to be placed. Is this ok to install this way? Was wondering about bearing pressure per square inch. Length wise along the frame rail would provide more bearing area per pad. Just wondered if this was any concern. Second question is the replacement of the frame tie down angle in the u-bracket. I understand making one leg of the angle longer but I guess I don't understand how you get the old one out and the new one in? Is it just unbolting it and slipping it out from the u-bolt and then doing the reverse for the new angle?

Thanks,
Tom
76 Eleganza II
Kansas City, Mo


Tom Geiger 76 Eleganza II KCMO
Re: [GMCnet] isolation pad installation [message #323408 is a reply to message #323393] Tue, 05 September 2017 14:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
jimk is currently offline  jimk   United States
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Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
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Senior Member
Tom,
Should you have the side step, be sure to loosen it as one can break the
step when lifting the body.

On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 9:24 AM, tom geiger wrote:

> Ok, am getting myself ready for installing the new 5/8" pads on the
> motorhome. Had a couple of questions pertaining to what I see posted as the
> procedure for it. It looks like the new pads are turned 90 degrees in
> their installation as to how the old ones seem to be on the coach, where
> the
> length of them run in the direction of the steel frame. I know it appears
> that they are installed at a 90 to allow the SS screws to be placed. Is
> this ok to install this way? Was wondering about bearing pressure per
> square inch. Length wise along the frame rail would provide more bearing
> area
> per pad. Just wondered if this was any concern. Second question is the
> replacement of the frame tie down angle in the u-bracket. I understand
> making one leg of the angle longer but I guess I don't understand how you
> get the old one out and the new one in? Is it just unbolting it and
> slipping it out from the u-bolt and then doing the reverse for the new
> angle?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
> 76 Eleganza II
> Kansas City, Mo
>
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--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
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Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
Re: isolation pad installation [message #323418 is a reply to message #323393] Tue, 05 September 2017 19:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JShot is currently offline  JShot   United States
Messages: 485
Registered: October 2006
Location: NW Ohio
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Senior Member
tgeiger wrote on Tue, 05 September 2017 12:24
Ok, am getting myself ready for installing the new 5/8" pads on the motorhome. Had a couple of questions pertaining to what I see posted as the procedure for it. It looks like the new pads are turned 90 degrees in their installation as to how the old ones seem to be on the coach, where the length of them run in the direction of the steel frame. I know it appears that they are installed at a 90 to allow the SS screws to be placed. Is this ok to install this way? Was wondering about bearing pressure per square inch. the pads we used were much bigger than the original. They look as good today as when we put them in. Length wise along the frame rail would provide more bearing area per pad. Just wondered if this was any concern. Second question is the replacement of the frame tie down angle in the u-bracket. I understand making one leg of the angle longer but I guess I don't understand how you get the old one out and the new one in? Is it just unbolting it and slipping it out from the u-bolt and then doing the reverse for the new angle? The part bolted to the frame (the "J" bracket as I call it) when unbolted from the frame rail, just pulls out at the bottom and comes right out in your hand. Ezzy peezy.When you're ready to button up these side mounts, it's very easy to put the new pad in place before bolting the J bracket to the frame. IIRC, we used the old pads (4) because they were not at all squashed.
John


Thanks,
Tom
76 Eleganza II
Kansas City, Mo



John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
Re: isolation pad installation [message #323498 is a reply to message #323393] Thu, 07 September 2017 09:16 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tgeiger is currently offline  tgeiger   United States
Messages: 518
Registered: February 2006
Location: kansas city
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Senior Member
Got it, thanks guys. Eager to see how this improves her ride!

Tom Geiger 76 Eleganza II KCMO
Re: [GMCnet] isolation pad installation [message #323500 is a reply to message #323498] Thu, 07 September 2017 09:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Registered: May 2010
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Senior Member
It won't improve her ride, but, it might improve yours.
Jim Hupy


On Sep 7, 2017 7:17 AM, "tom geiger" wrote:

> Got it, thanks guys. Eager to see how this improves her ride!
>
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Re: isolation pad installation [message #323504 is a reply to message #323393] Thu, 07 September 2017 09:31 Go to previous message
RF_Burns is currently offline  RF_Burns   Canada
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Registered: June 2008
Location: S. Ontario, Canada
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Senior Member
Tom,
At the risk of getting flamed, please read my posting from Faye and Bert Curtis's site.

http://www.bdub.net/curtis-unlimited/Pad_Installation_Instructions_BruceHislop.txt

Photos at:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5800-isolation-pad-installation.html

I know everyone says just put a jack under the cross-member and jack it up till you get room to stuff the new one in. My experience and my farmboy mechanic tells me that jacking up a single cross-member will just bend the cross-member. You need jack the frame off the suspension and to lift the whole body side, one side at a time using 3 or 4 jacks.

Just my experience , for what it's worth.


Bruce Hislop
ON Canada
77PB, 455 Dick P. rebuilt, DynamicEFI EBL EFI & ESC.
1 ton front end
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=29001
My Staff says I never listen to them, or something like that
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