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Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274700 is a reply to message #274690] Wed, 01 April 2015 07:51 Go to previous messageGo to next message
thesmith is currently offline  thesmith   United States
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Registered: February 2015
Location: Cary, NC
Karma: 6
Senior Member
Nice Coach.


The original paint can still be pretty good too but the stripes don't seem to hold up that well and some of the originals paint colours are dated.






Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 21:47
habbyguy wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 18:53
FWIW, here's a 26 year old paint job... http://www.habcycles.com/GMC16.jpg

http://www.habcycles.com/GMC16.jpg

It's still looking pretty good, and now that it's stored inside a climate-controlled warehouse, I suspect it'll continue to stay nice for a lot of years.

Looks like new!



Cary, NC 1978 Center Kitchen Royale.
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274708 is a reply to message #274698] Wed, 01 April 2015 09:49 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
Senior Member
roy1 wrote on Wed, 01 April 2015 01:18
Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:50
Matt Colie wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:19
As nearly as I can tell from the receipts I can read, our coach was repainted in Mexico about 20 years ago. I don't know what the paint was, but it is harder than Imron. It is way harder than Awlgrip. It is flatter than Kansas. I tried polishing it with hand compound on a wheel. (For you that don't know, this is a big Bozo No-No. Hand compound should cut so fast that using it on a power wheel could eat through the metal - let alone the paint.)

Nothing. I can bring it up a little at a time by wet sanding with 400, The panel below the driver's window took all day and it has pretty much gone flat again.

It looks pretty good when it is wet. I thought about putting some of the stuff for terrazo floors on it. I friend used it on his old boat, and it looks pretty good until the UV gets to it.

I would love to get her a 10K paint job, but we have a budget for the coach that is less than I had in mind years ago. If my retirement plans had not been raided, I might have done something, but as it is, the cost of a paint job would put us off line for four maybe five years. Thanks BHO, I will try to remember all you have done for me.

Matt

It was probably some paint that has been illegal here for years. I know a new paint job is almost impossible to swallow. I wonder if just a clear coat would work for you.

That's what I was thinking generaly if it looks good wet a clear coat will make it look pretty good.

I have talked to a couple of places about that. Most just look and shrug. As I don't know what the base coat is, they are reticent to make quotes. One nice fellow was sort of considering it, but he lost his shop when the building next door went up. I was glad to hear that they got the clients cars out even though one didn't actually have wheels. When he gets rebuilt, I may see if he is still interested. This would have just been a wet sand and clear coat. He does great work.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274772 is a reply to message #274708] Wed, 01 April 2015 23:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Clear coats are typically designed to work with a basecoat system for
proper adhesion. Most basecoats need to be clear coated within a limited
time frame after application in order to have a sound bond between the
two. If that window between basecoat application and clear coat
application closes, typically the basecoat needs to be sanded and another
coat of base applied prior to the clear. Since the bulk of the labor in a
paint job is the prep, skipping the basecoat to save the cost of the base
coat and the time to apply it is a pretty big gamble for small gain. In
collision repair part or parts of the car are re based and then the color
blended out into adjacent areas but the color is tapered or blended off
prior to the end of the panel. The clear is then applied over entire panels
to match gloss. When the clear on a repair fails to adhere and lifts or
peels it is almost always on the parts of the panel where no basecoat was
applied between the end of the blends and the remaining original finish.

Sully
77 Royale
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015, Matt Colie wrote:

> roy1 wrote on Wed, 01 April 2015 01:18
>> Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:50
>>> Matt Colie wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:19
>>>> As nearly as I can tell from the receipts I can read, our coach was
> repainted in Mexico about 20 years ago. I don't know what the paint
>>>> was, but it is harder than Imron. It is way harder than Awlgrip.
> It is flatter than Kansas. I tried polishing it with hand compound on a
>>>> wheel. (For you that don't know, this is a big Bozo No-No. Hand
> compound should cut so fast that using it on a power wheel could eat through
>>>> the metal - let alone the paint.)
>>>>
>>>> Nothing. I can bring it up a little at a time by wet sanding with
> 400, The panel below the driver's window took all day and it has pretty
>>>> much gone flat again.
>>>>
>>>> It looks pretty good when it is wet. I thought about putting some
> of the stuff for terrazo floors on it. I friend used it on his old
>>>> boat, and it looks pretty good until the UV gets to it.
>>>>
>>>> I would love to get her a 10K paint job, but we have a budget for
> the coach that is less than I had in mind years ago. If my retirement
>>>> plans had not been raided, I might have done something, but as it
> is, the cost of a paint job would put us off line for four maybe five years.
>>>> Thanks BHO, I will try to remember all you have done for me.
>>>>
>>>> Matt
>>>
>>> It was probably some paint that has been illegal here for years. I
> know a new paint job is almost impossible to swallow. I wonder if just a
>>> clear coat would work for you.
>>
>> That's what I was thinking generaly if it looks good wet a clear coat
> will make it look pretty good.
>
> I have talked to a couple of places about that. Most just look and
> shrug. As I don't know what the base coat is, they are reticent to make
> quotes.
> One nice fellow was sort of considering it, but he lost his shop when the
> building next door went up. I was glad to hear that they got the clients
> cars out even though one didn't actually have wheels. When he gets
> rebuilt, I may see if he is still interested. This would have just been a
> wet
> sand and clear coat. He does great work.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274775 is a reply to message #274772] Thu, 02 April 2015 01:07 Go to previous messageGo to next message
roy1 is currently offline  roy1   United States
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
Senior Member
sgltrac wrote on Wed, 01 April 2015 21:19
Clear coats are typically designed to work with a basecoat system for
proper adhesion. Most basecoats need to be clear coated within a limited
time frame after application in order to have a sound bond between the
two. If that window between basecoat application and clear coat
application closes, typically the basecoat needs to be sanded and another
coat of base applied prior to the clear. Since the bulk of the labor in a
paint job is the prep, skipping the basecoat to save the cost of the base
coat and the time to apply it is a pretty big gamble for small gain. In
collision repair part or parts of the car are re based and then the color
blended out into adjacent areas but the color is tapered or blended off
prior to the end of the panel. The clear is then applied over entire panels
to match gloss. When the clear on a repair fails to adhere and lifts or
peels it is almost always on the parts of the panel where no basecoat was
applied between the end of the blends and the remaining original finish.

Sully
77 Royale
77 eleganza 2
Seattle

On Wednesday, April 1, 2015, Matt Colie wrote:

> roy1 wrote on Wed, 01 April 2015 01:18
>> Bob de Kruyff wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:50
>>> Matt Colie wrote on Tue, 31 March 2015 19:19
>>>> As nearly as I can tell from the receipts I can read, our coach was
> repainted in Mexico about 20 years ago. I don't know what the paint
>>>> was, but it is harder than Imron. It is way harder than Awlgrip.
> It is flatter than Kansas. I tried polishing it with hand compound on a
>>>> wheel. (For you that don't know, this is a big Bozo No-No. Hand
> compound should cut so fast that using it on a power wheel could eat through
>>>> the metal - let alone the paint.)
>>>>
>>>> Nothing. I can bring it up a little at a time by wet sanding with
> 400, The panel below the driver's window took all day and it has pretty
>>>> much gone flat again.
>>>>
>>>> It looks pretty good when it is wet. I thought about putting some
> of the stuff for terrazo floors on it. I friend used it on his old
>>>> boat, and it looks pretty good until the UV gets to it.
>>>>
>>>> I would love to get her a 10K paint job, but we have a budget for
> the coach that is less than I had in mind years ago. If my retirement
>>>> plans had not been raided, I might have done something, but as it
> is, the cost of a paint job would put us off line for four maybe five years.
>>>> Thanks BHO, I will try to remember all you have done for me.
>>>>
>>>> Matt
>>>
>>> It was probably some paint that has been illegal here for years. I
> know a new paint job is almost impossible to swallow. I wonder if just a
>>> clear coat would work for you.
>>
>> That's what I was thinking generaly if it looks good wet a clear coat
> will make it look pretty good.
>
> I have talked to a couple of places about that. Most just look and
> shrug. As I don't know what the base coat is, they are reticent to make
> quotes.
> One nice fellow was sort of considering it, but he lost his shop when the
> building next door went up. I was glad to hear that they got the clients
> cars out even though one didn't actually have wheels. When he gets
> rebuilt, I may see if he is still interested. This would have just been a
> wet
> sand and clear coat. He does great work.
>
> Matt
>
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - Members GMCMI, GMCES
> '73 Glacier 23 - Still Loving OE Rear Drum Brake with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
_______________________________________________
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. The clear coat on my Toyota went away on the roof and hood. There is no way it can be fixed without doing the base too. The gel coat on a ski boat lost its shine so we shot it with ditzler 2 part clear. It was good for another 10 years. The imeron clear on the sunny side of my coach started to dull out after 15 years . I wet sanded the side and the rear and shot a coat of imeron clear almost 15 years ago. It still looks great but it has been garaged for the last 10 years. So it all depends of course the clear I used was the old stuff the new stuff may not be as good. It's nice to have a paint job that is almost 30 years old that still looks pretty new.


Roy Keen Minden,NV 76 X Glenbrook
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274796 is a reply to message #274772] Thu, 02 April 2015 11:48 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff   United States
Messages: 4260
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Karma: 1
Senior Member
""Clear coats are typically designed to work with a basecoat system for
proper adhesion. Most basecoats need to be clear coated within a limited
time frame after application in order to have a sound bond between the
two. If that window between basecoat application and clear coat
application closes, typically the basecoat needs to be sanded and another
coat of base applied prior to the clear. Since the bulk of the labor in a
paint job is the prep, skipping the basecoat to save the cost of the base
coat and the time to apply it is a pretty big gamble for small gain. In
collision repair part or parts of the car are re based and then the color
blended out into adjacent areas but the color is tapered or blended off
prior to the end of the panel. The clear is then applied over entire panels
to match gloss. When the clear on a repair fails to adhere and lifts or
peels it is almost always on the parts of the panel where no basecoat was
applied between the end of the blends and the remaining original finish.

Sully
77 Royale
77 eleganza 2
Seattle
""

Although that is true when working with a base coat/ clear coat System, there are different options for just apply clear over a base coat that has been there for a while. It still requires a good prep, but in this case, not knowing the type of paint that is already there presents a problem. It still may be worth a chance though.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #274806 is a reply to message #274796] Thu, 02 April 2015 14:17 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Don A is currently offline  Don A   United States
Messages: 895
Registered: October 2008
Location: Dallas, TX
Karma: 0
Senior Member
And Steve bowtie Ferguson's procedure to apply high gloss floor polish is still a low cost, do it yourself, great way to jazz up an old flat finnish.

Don Adams Dallas, TX
'76 26' Glenbrook, '90 Sidekick
rebuilt by R Archer, powered by J Bounds, Koba
[IMG]http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/6109/G2.jpg[/IMG]
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316601 is a reply to message #274264] Tue, 25 April 2017 14:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Luvn737s is currently offline  Luvn737s   United States
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
Senior Member
I just spoke to Robert Walker at Arizona Truck and Coach Painting (http://aztruckpaint.com) and after looking at pictures of my GMC, he estimated that a single stage urethane paint job would run about $5000. That was based on dropping the coach with all the roof stuff stripped. I would also assume any body work and seam sealing would need to be done prior to them painting it.


Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316603 is a reply to message #316601] Tue, 25 April 2017 15:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
To paint one of our coaches, and do a OEM quality paint job, all lights,
pods, trim pieces, door hardware, windows, should be removed, an epoxy type
sealer followed by urethane top coat.
Todd Sullivan, owner of Seattle Collision Center, painted his coach
that way, used nearly 5000 bucks worth of materials and his own labor, and
told me that he wouldn't do another coach for $10,000.00. Be sure that you
nail down all of your costs with your painter before you start with him.
Body work is not cheap.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC ROYALE 403

On Apr 25, 2017 12:59 PM, "Randy" wrote:

> I just spoke to Robert Walker at Arizona Truck and Coach Painting (
> http://aztruckpaint.com) and after looking at pictures of my GMC, he
> estimated that
> a single stage urethane paint job would run about $5000. That was based on
> dropping the coach with all the roof stuff stripped. I would also assume
> any body work and seam sealing would need to be done prior to them
> painting it.
>
> --
> Randy
> 1973 26' Painted Desert
> Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
>
>
>
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>
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Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316605 is a reply to message #274264] Tue, 25 April 2017 15:54 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Luvn737s is currently offline  Luvn737s   United States
Messages: 1106
Registered: June 2007
Karma: 2
Senior Member
How much did Topeka Graphics charge when they were painting GMCs?

Randy
1973 26' Painted Desert
Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316607 is a reply to message #316605] Tue, 25 April 2017 16:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
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Senior Member
Just make sure that each of you know what is expected of the other and that
you are on the same page as far as what the finished product will lok like.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Seattle
On Tue, Apr 25, 2017 at 1:54 PM Randy wrote:

> How much did Topeka Graphics charge when they were painting GMCs?
> --
> Randy
> 1973 26' Painted Desert
> Ahwatukee (Phoenix) AZ
>
>
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316632 is a reply to message #316607] Wed, 26 April 2017 07:26 Go to previous messageGo to next message
kstockwell is currently offline  kstockwell   United States
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Registered: May 2016
Location: Putney VT
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Senior Member
I think the decision to paint is also part of us customizing our rigs. I've seen some pretty sweet looking designs out there (and some terrible ones!). My coach was repainted 10 foot job who knows how many years ago. There are a ton of chips down to metal or fiberglass, new stripes were put over old stripes and some bleed through under the masking, they painted over dimples from rocks on the front end, didn't paint over the stripe under the driver's side awning (which means they didn't remove the awnings...

So, some day I'd like to get it repainted; I would view it also as a total re-seal job (taking off ALL the things and making sure there are no gaps leaks etc). I assume that is around $10-15K; and I would need to drive it somewhere far from Southern VT to do so. For now though I'm using it, and I just spent a day washing the roof, washing/claying/polishing one side and the back- fantasizing about the paint design I would want done.

kelly


1978 Kingsley Putney VT
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316637 is a reply to message #316605] Wed, 26 April 2017 09:37 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JShot is currently offline  JShot   United States
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Randy,
When we had ours done at Topeka in 2010, Larry quoted us $4,500. They found some PO body work they had to fix, we had them move the water fill from the pass side to the driver side (to be with the electric cord box cover), and there was some PO road rash on the pass side rear tail light/marker light. We also had installed an on demand propane water heater, so we had them fill in the 14" x 14" old water heater hole in the side panel.

Total bill for all of this came to $4,950.

shot


John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
Re: [GMCnet] Paint [message #316661 is a reply to message #274264] Wed, 26 April 2017 16:34 Go to previous message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
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Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
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Senior Member
Matt -

Sounds like AlumiGrip. U.S. Paint and Lacquer developed the stuff to survive rainstorms on jets... everything else came off. We sprayed a lot of Bonanzas and twins with the stuff at The Aircraftsman, there are probably many of them still flying around. Chemically it was nasty stuff, but harder than hell.

--johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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