Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265399 is a reply to message #265380] |
Mon, 03 November 2014 20:59   |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Another thing I learned a long time ago. We always had a problem with Cleveland brakes on aircraft rusting the caliper slide pins. They sit out in the rain and get a soaking anytime there is any water on the runway or taxiway. They also get wet when the aircraft is parked in the rain. Every year we would have to disassemble, clean, polish, and lube the pins.
A coating of anti-seize on the pins solved the problem. Now we look at them once every 5 years or so.
I'm suggesting that an anti-seize coating be applied to the DD slip joint on assembly. That stuff really sticks to the surfaces. You could still grease the joint after installation if desired.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265411 is a reply to message #265388] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 00:31 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Karen,
If you look at this page: http://www.bdub.net/lenzi/index.html you will see that Dave sells a direct replacement for the OEM lower
steering column with one difference; the seal at the top on the OEM part was cork, the new ones is a rubber compound of some sort. I
don't know if the price is current or not.
What exactly is wrong with your lower steering column?
1) If there is too much slop in the CV joint Rick Denny discovered that the balls are not 5/8" (0.625) they are actually (0.624)
therefore you could buy 5/8" (0.625) and see if that fixes it. You might have to do some custom fitting.
2) If the blue coating is worn here's a link to a fix written by Frank Condos: http://www.gmcws.org/techcenter/97-03tc17.html
3) If the lower "U" joint is worn it can be replaced with Precision Universal Kit #338 from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Drivelines-338-U-Joint/dp/B009HQI460
4) If the splines that mate with the steering box are worn you might be able to heat the yoke up and squeeze it enough to tighten it
up a bit.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: KB
interesting... Dave Lenzi's info says "New Spicer steering shaft With lower universal joint" meaning there must be a source for new
versions of the OEM stuff, at least the lower part. Or is a "spicer steering shaft" a different animal? And is $290 a current
price? Assuming we're talking about the same parts, it's quite a bit more here: http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/781
Part of the question is not just about price. Manufacturing and automobiles have come a long way in the last 40 years.
Is there a reasonable bolt-in solution at a reasonable price that will work noticeably better than the original design?
To me, that's the hard question. If I have to go to the trouble and expense of fixing this thing, I want it to count.
Karen
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265413 is a reply to message #265411] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 06:26 |
Jim at the Co-op
Messages: 291
Registered: May 2014
Location: Orlando Florida
Karma: 2
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I think I talked with Jim about this part back at Coos Bay, I do feel
looking outside the box for replacement parts for some of the stuff that
has simply dropped off the parts listings because mainly there isn't enough
call for the manufacturers to continue to produce the stuff. To my
knowledge there are no "new" original parts for the steering shaft
assembly. The upper CV was used for a time by Volvo Truck but it too went
away. We have been getting really low on inventory on the original shaft
assemblies and when I saw Jim's set up I wanted to hear more about it. I
thanked him for coming up with it and copied it down then.
Frankly, I have been sort of waiting for the braintrust for suspension
stuff to bat this around a bit. Investigating new ideas takes labor and
expertice, I look to everyone to pitch in and help proving up some of
these. Mods that make it past the "shade tree" support can help the
community, specifically when the original part has become difficult to
support repairs with. There are several good cross reference parts and
this one is coming at a good time.
It's not the price of it, don't catch yourself buying cheaper-- no it's the
fact that there is a quality alternative that can be reproduced. That's
the difference, I don't want a replacement part that itself is hard to find
and hard to use. I want "off shelf" and that looks like what we have
here.
As far as integrating it into our alignment procedures, we check alignment
on every steering box before we install them-- that procedure is in the
book. After the box is documented straight on, connecting the steering
column to the box is a matter of semantics.
Now that the part has been "run up the pole", I'll tell Blaine you said
hello Jim and again thanks for looking around.
Jim Bounds
----------------------
On Tue, Nov 4, 2014 at 1:31 AM, Robert Mueller
wrote:
> Karen,
>
> If you look at this page: http://www.bdub.net/lenzi/index.html you will
> see that Dave sells a direct replacement for the OEM lower
> steering column with one difference; the seal at the top on the OEM part
> was cork, the new ones is a rubber compound of some sort. I
> don't know if the price is current or not.
>
> What exactly is wrong with your lower steering column?
>
> 1) If there is too much slop in the CV joint Rick Denny discovered that
> the balls are not 5/8" (0.625) they are actually (0.624)
> therefore you could buy 5/8" (0.625) and see if that fixes it. You might
> have to do some custom fitting.
>
> 2) If the blue coating is worn here's a link to a fix written by Frank
> Condos: http://www.gmcws.org/techcenter/97-03tc17.html
>
> 3) If the lower "U" joint is worn it can be replaced with Precision
> Universal Kit #338 from Amazon:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Drivelines-338-U-Joint/dp/B009HQI460
>
> 4) If the splines that mate with the steering box are worn you might be
> able to heat the yoke up and squeeze it enough to tighten it
> up a bit.
>
> Regards,
> Rob M.
> Sydney, Australia
> AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
> USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KB
>
> interesting... Dave Lenzi's info says "New Spicer steering shaft With
> lower universal joint" meaning there must be a source for new
> versions of the OEM stuff, at least the lower part. Or is a "spicer
> steering shaft" a different animal? And is $290 a current
> price? Assuming we're talking about the same parts, it's quite a bit more
> here: http://www.appliedgmc.com/prod.itml/icOid/781
>
> Part of the question is not just about price. Manufacturing and
> automobiles have come a long way in the last 40 years.
> Is there a reasonable bolt-in solution at a reasonable price that will
> work noticeably better than the original design?
> To me, that's the hard question. If I have to go to the trouble and
> expense of fixing this thing, I want it to count.
>
> Karen
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265427 is a reply to message #265380] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 11:04 |
bdub
Messages: 1578
Registered: February 2004
Location: Central Texas
Karma: 5
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Senior Member |
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FYI
In an exchange with Jim Fawcett:
We're wondering what you think about the setup since you've been using it
for over a year now. How does water intrusion affect the sliding mechanism?
We've talked about possibly using the DD tube on top and the shaft below so
that water would channel away rather than in. We found those parts are
available at Borgeson. Also, we found a stainless steel DD rod available at
Flaming River. Do you see any need for these mods or not?
He replied:
I really like the Boargsen steering assembly that I installed last year and
I found it to work flawlessly. There is a rubber boot that seals moisture
between the two shafts and you certainly can install the outer portion on
top if you wish I simply packed the channel with grease and I've had no
problems. There's very little movement between the end of the steering
column shaft and the gearbox so the collapsible portion of the double D has
hardly any movement. Again there's always something you can change but I'm
happy with the way things are. And the price.... well you just can't beat
it.
===================================
Karen! Do this mod and let us know how it works out. :-)
bdub
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist On Behalf Of KB
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 6:30 PM
another point to consider... it seems to me if you have a telescoping
shaft, you'd want the outer sleeve to be at the top, and the inner shaft to
be at the bottom to minimize the amount of water that collects between the
two. Or is there some compelling reason to have it the other way?
I think (though have to verify) that the previously given part numbers would
have the smaller shaft pointing upwards, so any water that gets on it will
run down the shaft and into the outer sleeve at the bottom.
Assuming the splined shaft coming off the bottom of the steering column (up
by the firewall) is 1"-48, and the one coming out of the top of the steering
box at the bottom is 13/16-36, then I think the part numbers would be:
Upper:
1"DDx1"-48: 014352 (plain steel) or 114352 (stainless)
Lower:
3/4DDx13/16"-36: 014940 (plain steel) or 114940 (stainless), or for a
vibration reducing U-joint instead: 034940 (plain steel), 154940 (stainless)
plus the same 24" telescoping DD steel shaft trimmed to length: # 450024
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
www.bdub.net
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www.gmcmhregistry.com
www.facebook.com/groups/classicgmcmotorhomes
www.facebook.com/groups/gmcmm
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265431 is a reply to message #265411] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 11:41 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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I think the upper CV on ours is acceptable. I've already gone down that route of dis-assembly, inspection, and grease (and then trying to get it back together in the correct orientation...) The assembly between the upper joint and the steering box is worn on ours, and this looks like a common problem to me.
A previous owner already went down the route of inserting shims down the splines to try and take up the slack, but it's still pretty sloppy. Also looks like somebody hammered on the yoke where the lower U-joint is mounted. I could replace it, or pull it, epoxy the plastic coating, replace the lower u-joint, etc, but I'm not convinced it'll stay tight for long.
Seems like the original design, especially that plastic coating to take up the slack in a constantly sliding joint, is just not very durable (especially when constantly drenched in water...) Maybe it's "good enough" for the purpose, but it doesn't hurt to think about alternatives.
I have to take apart our upper column anyway because the tilt mechanism is partially wedged and there's an annoying squeak. That got me to go print
out your most excellent document about inspecting the steering (THANK YOU for doing that, btw) and look at the possibilities for parts for the rest.
I don't know yet what approach to take, but this new stuff looks promising to me.
thanks,
Karen
1975 26'
A
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265435 is a reply to message #265427] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 12:26 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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G'day,
I called Peter Bailey down in Adelaide as he has a GMC that has not been converted to RHD. He is happy for me to fly down there with
my Jerry Work alignment tools and work with him to put together a set of step by step photographs on how to position the steering
box on "top dead center" with the front wheels pointed straight ahead, the steering wheel in the correct orientation, the lower
steering column assembly (clocked) correctly, the relay lever oriented correctly, and the tie rod ends set equally. He has a GMC
that has not been converted to RHD.
The lower steering columns (Spicer shaft) in both Double Trouble and The Blue Streak and I have a spare I bought of eBay just in
case so I am not personally interested in this mod.
HOWEVER, if someone over there is interested in purchasing the parts; and making them fit in a GMC and sending them to me I would be
willing to take them to Adelaide when Peter and I will put together a second set of photos as noted above with the Borgeson parts to
assist the community. They pay the shipping to Australia and I would pay the shipping back to the USA. The parts could be shipped in
a PVC plumbing tube with one removable end.
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Billy Massey
Sent: Wednesday, November 05, 2014 4:04 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement
FYI
In an exchange with Jim Fawcett:
We're wondering what you think about the setup since you've been using it
for over a year now. How does water intrusion affect the sliding mechanism?
We've talked about possibly using the DD tube on top and the shaft below so
that water would channel away rather than in. We found those parts are
available at Borgeson. Also, we found a stainless steel DD rod available at
Flaming River. Do you see any need for these mods or not?
He replied:
I really like the Borgeson steering assembly that I installed last year and
I found it to work flawlessly. There is a rubber boot that seals moisture
between the two shafts and you certainly can install the outer portion on
top if you wish I simply packed the channel with grease and I've had no
problems. There's very little movement between the end of the steering
column shaft and the gearbox so the collapsible portion of the double D has
hardly any movement. Again there's always something you can change but I'm
happy with the way things are. And the price.... well you just can't beat
it.
===================================
Karen! Do this mod and let us know how it works out. :-)
bdub
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist On Behalf Of KB
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2014 6:30 PM
another point to consider... it seems to me if you have a telescoping
shaft, you'd want the outer sleeve to be at the top, and the inner shaft to
be at the bottom to minimize the amount of water that collects between the
two. Or is there some compelling reason to have it the other way?
I think (though have to verify) that the previously given part numbers would
have the smaller shaft pointing upwards, so any water that gets on it will
run down the shaft and into the outer sleeve at the bottom.
Assuming the splined shaft coming off the bottom of the steering column (up
by the firewall) is 1"-48, and the one coming out of the top of the steering
box at the bottom is 13/16-36, then I think the part numbers would be:
Upper:
1"DDx1"-48: 014352 (plain steel) or 114352 (stainless)
Lower:
3/4DDx13/16"-36: 014940 (plain steel) or 114940 (stainless), or for a
vibration reducing U-joint instead: 034940 (plain steel), 154940 (stainless)
plus the same 24" telescoping DD steel shaft trimmed to length: # 450024
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Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265444 is a reply to message #265431] |
Tue, 04 November 2014 13:49 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Karen,
I'm going to disagree with you slightly and say and add the following to your statement "that plastic coating to take up the slack
in a constantly sliding joint, is just not very durable" - WHEN NOT GREASED AT THE PROPER INTERVAL.
Ref: MM-X-7525 page 0-6 General Information / ENGINE, CHASSIS, AND BODY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
WHEN TO PERFORM SERVICES Item SERVICES
(Months or Miles, Whichever Occurs First) No (For Details, See Numbered Paragraphs
Every 3 months or 3,000 miles 1 Chassis Lubrication
As noted in my previous email there is a difference between the OEM blue slip shaft the current production and that is the seal at
the top of the shaft; the OEM it is cork and the new one I examined at Dave Lenzi's table was a rubber compound. I'd say they made
that change because shafts that were not greased regularly rusted solid as noted here on occasion!
After reading your note below about Primitive Pete beating on the lower yoke to tighten it up I thought that it might be a better
idea just to try and crush the yoke a bit in a press to tighten it up before heating it up. The one in Double Trouble was loose and
worn but I was able to tighten it up enough by replacing the 7/16 NC coarse bolt with a 7/16 NF bolt and torquing it like beyond the
70 ft lb spec. I have no idea how much torque I applied to that bolt but I am SURE it was above the 70 ft lb spec. Now that I
reflect on doing that I realize that's not a good thing to do because the bolt could shear and that would NOT be fun!
Thanks for the compliment; hopefully I will be able to update that procedure to include setting the steering box on "top dead
center."
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: KB
I think the upper CV on ours is acceptable. I've already gone down that route of dis-assembly, inspection, and grease (and then
trying to get it back together in the correct orientation...) The assembly between the upper joint and the steering box is worn on
ours, and this looks like a common problem to me. A previous owner already went down the route of inserting shims down the splines
to try and take up the slack, but it's still pretty sloppy. Also looks like somebody hammered on the yoke where the lower U-joint
is mounted. I could replace it, or pull it, epoxy the plastic coating, replace the lower u-joint, etc, but I'm not convinced it'll
stay tight for long.
Seems like the original design, especially that plastic coating to take up the slack in a constantly sliding joint, is just not very
durable
(especially when constantly drenched in water...) Maybe it's "good enough" for the purpose, but it doesn't hurt to think about
alternatives.
I have to take apart our upper column anyway because the tilt mechanism is partially wedged and there's an annoying squeak. That
got me to go print out your most excellent document about inspecting the steering (THANK YOU for doing that, btw) and look at the
possibilities for parts for the rest.
I don't know yet what approach to take, but this new stuff looks promising to me.
thanks,
Karen
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265550 is a reply to message #265453] |
Thu, 06 November 2014 12:37 |
KB
Messages: 1262
Registered: September 2009
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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just an update:
You CAN mix and match various manufacturers u-joints with the DD shafts. They're a standard size. Eg, you can put a Flaming River u-joint on a Borgeson DD shaft (I asked).
The sizes we're dealing with are quite common: the upper shaft is a standard GM steering column (1"-48) and the lower is a standard old style "big GM" power steering size (13/16"-36).
(later GM steering boxes are 3/4" or in some cases, 17mm)
The Borgeson DD slip shaft does NOT come with a grease zerk (though no reason you couldn't add one yourself). The flaming river ones probably do but are nearly double the price.
You can get a stainless inner slip shaft, but the outer sleeve is still just steel. More money of course.
The biggest difference between manufacturers on the slip shaft seems to be the rubber boot they supply.
I wouldn't be surprised to find there was only one source for the steel.
We only need about 10" on the slip shaft, so (in theory) you might be able to get more than one shaft out of a single order (though would need extra boots).
I had hoped this awesome looking ready-made solution from Flaming River would work, but the upper joint is only good to 30 degrees (per their specs) and I'm pretty sure our upper joint is 35 (or more).
Might work, might not:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1857-16/overview/
Borgeson u-joints are good to 35 degrees, and we already know they work here.
The pinch-bolt type u-joints do require notching the shaft for the shoulder bolt to clear (a good thing), so probably a good fit for our lower u-joint.
So, my current shopping list:
upper u-joint: Borgeson 1"-48x1"DD (stainless: #114352)
DD slip shaft (Borgeson 450024 or others)
lower u-joint: Flaming River 13/16"-36 x 3/4DD pinch-bolt u-joint (stainless: FR2719DD)
I think there are a lot of possible solutions. Thanks to Jim Fawcett for heading down this path and figuring out the sizes.
Karen
1975 26'
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265552 is a reply to message #265311] |
Thu, 06 November 2014 13:04 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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Karen, one thing that popped into my mind regarding the pinch joint units. These will only go onto the male splines in ONE position. Once there, the DD shaft orientation is locked down by the other end of the upper U-joint. Same as the upper end of the lower U-joint. That means the splines and groves on the steering box HAVE to go where the U-joint requires them to be because of the groove.
I have no idea if the grooves and splines on the steering column and steering box are parallel. My concern with this is that it may be more difficult to center the steering box. Now if you only did the TOP, you'd be sure it wouldn't fall out and the lower could be the set screw type. Even if they got loose, it wouldn't come off.
Just a thought.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265553 is a reply to message #265550] |
Thu, 06 November 2014 13:05 |
Jim at the Co-op
Messages: 291
Registered: May 2014
Location: Orlando Florida
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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Made a mistake on my last post--- I have ordered the same parts, they are
not here yet. I want to source after market parts we use if possible from
the same vendor. I ordered the SS joints, so little difference in cost hey
why not. The steel ones will probably last longer than you and I will care
anyway-- the stainless is just the right amount of overkill. In that this
unit has been field tested for a year with good results that's the set up I
wanna go with---- no surprises...
This is a great find, there are several other parts in the same shape.
Currently we are rebuilding the things we cannot buy new, crossing to other
reliable replacement parts is a good thing. Just one more off the
endangered species list makes room for the ones to come.
You also must understand the original steering shaft assembly needs
servicing every couple of years--- the CV boot tears and lets water screw
up the irreplaceable upper CV. When that blue insulation peals off you are
really done for. If this new one will go 10 years without servicing hey,
that's a win itself!
Jim Bounds
------------------------
On Thu, Nov 6, 2014 at 1:37 PM, KB wrote:
> just an update:
>
> You CAN mix and match various manufacturers u-joints with the DD shafts.
> They're a standard size. Eg, you can put a Flaming River u-joint on a
> Borgeson DD shaft (I asked).
> The sizes we're dealing with are quite common: the upper shaft is a
> standard GM steering column (1"-48) and the lower is a standard old style
> "big
> GM" power steering size (13/16"-36).
> (later GM steering boxes are 3/4" or in some cases, 17mm)
>
> The Borgeson DD slip shaft does NOT come with a grease zerk (though no
> reason you couldn't add one yourself). The flaming river ones probably do
> but
> are nearly double the price.
>
> You can get a stainless inner slip shaft, but the outer sleeve is still
> just steel. More money of course.
> The biggest difference between manufacturers on the slip shaft seems to be
> the rubber boot they supply.
> I wouldn't be surprised to find there was only one source for the steel.
>
> We only need about 10" on the slip shaft, so (in theory) you might be able
> to get more than one shaft out of a single order (though would need extra
> boots).
>
> I had hoped this awesome looking ready-made solution from Flaming River
> would work, but the upper joint is only good to 30 degrees (per their specs)
> and I'm pretty sure our upper joint is 35 (or more).
> Might work, might not:
> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fla-fr1857-16/overview/
>
> Borgeson u-joints are good to 35 degrees, and we already know they work
> here.
>
> The pinch-bolt type u-joints do require notching the shaft for the
> shoulder bolt to clear (a good thing), so probably a good fit for our lower
> u-joint.
>
> So, my current shopping list:
> upper u-joint: Borgeson 1"-48x1"DD (stainless: #114352)
> DD slip shaft (Borgeson 450024 or others)
> lower u-joint: Flaming River 13/16"-36 x 3/4DD pinch-bolt u-joint
> (stainless: FR2719DD)
>
> I think there are a lot of possible solutions. Thanks to Jim Fawcett for
> heading down this path and figuring out the sizes.
>
> Karen
> 1975 26'
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement [message #265558 is a reply to message #265552] |
Thu, 06 November 2014 15:08 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Kerry,
Something else popped into my mind. You had noted earlier in this thread:
"The more I learn about GMCs, the more I wonder why the OEM unit is so robust. We go from a standard GM steering column shaft to
this big honking thing back to standard size stuff."
To which I responded:
"Why is the OEM unit so robust - my guess that it wasn't designed for the GMC and is used in other applications."
I've thought of another reason:
It was designed to be able to take the torque required to steer a GMC if you loose power steering?
Regards,
Rob M.
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Kerry Pinkerton
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2014 6:04 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] lower steering shaft complete new replacement
Karen, one thing that popped into my mind regarding the pinch joint units. These will only go onto the male splines in ONE
position. Once there, the
DD shaft orientation is locked down by the other end of the upper U-joint. Same as the upper end of the lower U-joint. That means
the splines and
groves on the steering box HAVE to go where the U-joint requires them to be because of the groove.
I have no idea if the grooves and splines on the steering column and steering box are parallel. My concern with this is that it may
be more difficult
to center the steering box. Now if you only did the TOP, you'd be sure it wouldn't fall out and the lower could be the set screw
type. Even if they
got loose, it wouldn't come off.
Just a thought.
--
Kerry Pinkerton
North Alabama, near Huntsville,
77 Eleganza II, "The Lady", 403CI, Manny Brakes, 1 ton, tranny also a 76 Eleganza to be re-bodied as an Art Deco car hauler
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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