Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Battery and/or starting issues
| Battery and/or starting issues [message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 09:06  |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it. NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the disconnect switch the wrong way.
When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge showed 13V charging all the way.
Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the question.
The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is the problem. On the list to do.
The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4 gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2 gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK but I'll look at it also.
The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V for the rear.
Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189046 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 09:31  |
Mr ERFisher
Messages: 7117
Registered: August 2005
Karma: 2
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Senior Member |
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read this set of info
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html
- engine battery should hook directly to the starter
- not good to crank thru the cut-off switch (370 amp draw)
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
good luck
gene
On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 7:06 AM, Kerry Pinkerton <Pinkertonk@mchsi.com>wrote:
>
>
> Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
>
> When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it.
> NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the
> disconnect switch the wrong way.
>
> When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't
> start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises
> but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
>
> Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge
> showed 13V charging all the way.
>
> Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start
> the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it
> and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully
> charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and
> will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the
> battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the
> question.
>
> The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large
> battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is
> the problem. On the list to do.
>
> The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4
> gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2
> gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I
> go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some
> will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge
> copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm
> thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
>
> Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK
> but I'll look at it also.
>
> The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old
> 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while
> drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf
> cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is
> bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V
> for the rear.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, The Lady, 403
>
>
> 76 Eleganza being rebodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
“Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189051 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 10:05 |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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If the house battery is not a deep discharge type, it should work fine for the engine battery. Two 6volt golf cart batteries will give you better life for the house circuits. If you still have the original charger (buzz box), I'd also recommend changing that out to a modern charger/converter like the Progressive Dynamics one.
Five years is about it for a lot of batteries, so I would strongly suggest changing it out.
Also, the alternator should usually be charging over 13 volts while driving (at least originally if the battery was run down). You might want to check that as well.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189052 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 10:37 |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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Senior Member |
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| Kerry Pinkerton wrote on Sat, 03 November 2012 10:06 |
Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it. NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the disconnect switch the wrong way.
When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge showed 13V charging all the way.
Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the question.
The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is the problem. On the list to do.
The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4 gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2 gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK but I'll look at it also.
The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V for the rear.
Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
|
Kerry,
If a battery has been deep discharged or left in a less than full charge state for long, it will lose capacity. The fact is that the terminal voltage can be brought up to the 12.6 that a charged battery should be, but it can do that with no capacity behind it. Kind of like if you had an air tank that was largely full of water - there can be pressure there until you let out just a little air and then it is gone.
For starting a good 455, #4 cable is adequate, but (as I tell clients all the time), more copper never hurts and you only have to buy it once.
Before you do anything rash (as in spend money), and as a quick diagnostic, put the house battery in the engine position (you don't need to strap it down and everything, just make the connections solid) and see if you get a good crank...
If yes, you have answered the question.
If no, go looking for bad connections.
I have found that the best diagnostic tool is a light bulb with two long clip leads connected (how doesn't matter) to it. Put it places that either should or should not have any voltage and see if it lights. (Says the guy that owns several High buck meters and gives away HF cheapies to clients.)
=>One of my favorite is to put the light from the battery to the motor terminal on the starter.
It should light.
Hit the starter. It should out COMPLETELY. Even with your hands cupped around it so any glow at all would be visible. If it doesn't, you know you have a problem and now you know sort of where to start. Now do the same between the negative post and a good ground. This one should not light at all - ever. The same would be true between the positive and the battery terminal on the starter.
Gene's rewire of the starting circuit is not a bad idea, but do the complete diagnostic before you do it. If there is a defective piece in the system, you don't want to waste all that energy and then still have things not work right.
Your thought to move the house bank to the engine service is a very good plan, and along with making the house bank a pair of 6V golf cart batteries, you will have a much better overall system.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189053 is a reply to message #189046] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 10:37 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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Thanks Gene. Do you mean that the hot lead should run directly to the starter then back to the starter solenoid? Currently it runs to the solenoid and from there to the battery.
Is the #4 wire gauge OK or do I need to go larger?
Is there any need for a battery disconnect?
I was speaking to Ken Henderson this morning and he questions the isolator. Do you have a link to the isolator testing procedure? I haven't run across it yet. I'm also going to check and make sure there is an APC on the alternator. If not, I'll be ordering one today.
George, the coach battery is a marine deep draw so I'll probably just buy a new battery for the engine.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
[Updated on: Sat, 03 November 2012 10:38] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189060 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 10:59 |
habbyguy
Messages: 896
Registered: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Karma: 3
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Senior Member |
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I'm with George on this one - everything I read points to a weak chassis battery (and yes, five years CAN be a lot for a battery, and is an eternity for a battery that's been overcharged dramatically by the standard GMC buzzbox). I've got a feeling that'll fix what ails your coach without doing anything else. Bigger starter cables are nice enough, but the original ones should do a fine job spinning any healthy V8, so this mod would have to go down as "nice but not necessary". This is coming from a guy who's going to be installing a length of 0 gauge wire from the house batteries up front back to the distribution and inverter today!.
My coach had a similar problem when I bought it. It would start fine on the "chassis battery". It turns out that the PO had cobbled the wiring together to "hide" a VERY bad chassis battery and it was actually one of the house deep-cycle 12V batteries that was hooked up to the starter, with the chassis battery paralleled with the other house battery. As a result, the house battery circuit would drain itself overnight (with the old chassis battery sucking the good house battery down to under 10 volts). A new chassis battery, some restorative wiring and things were all great again.
Mark Hickey
Mesa, AZ
1978 Royale Center Kitchen
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189065 is a reply to message #189053] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 11:22 |
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mike miller
Messages: 3576
Registered: February 2004
Location: Hillsboro, Oregon
Karma: 0
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Senior Member |
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| Quote: |
... the coach battery is a marine deep draw so I'll probably just buy a new battery for the engine. ...
|
From what I have been able to tell, most marine batteries are not truly deep cells or are they truly starting batteries. I used a pair of PO installed marine deep cells as the house and staring batteries on my '78. They worked just fine, but I replaced both as I needed more house battery capacity. (I am installing the old batteries in my '77 for now... )
So... I'd try your current single 12v "house" battery as a starting battery. It might work just fine for a while. (Of course you might find another use for a "deep cell" on other projects.)
| Quote: |
Do you mean that the hot lead should run directly to the starter then back to the starter solenoid? Currently it runs to the solenoid and from there to the battery.
Is the #4 wire gauge OK or do I need to go larger?
Is there any need for a battery disconnect?
I was speaking to Ken Henderson this morning and he questions the isolator. Do you have a link to the isolator testing procedure? I haven't run across it yet.
|
-- Yes, Gene's method wires the battery directly to the solenoid on the starter. It also connects the battery directly to the boost solenoid.... to wire it this way you need a dual post battery or other type of post adapter. The down side is more connections right at the battery. (In my experience, connections at the battery normally corrode more than connections elsewhere.)
-- Bigger is always better. 4g is good if all your connections are good and clean. It was good enough for GM! (OEM)
-- Avoid a disconnect between the battery and the starter. I would try and fix any battery "drains" that make a disconnect useful. If you do still want a disconnect... quality is important.
-- An isolator is just a pair of diodes. To explain the system: Think of "check valves" in an air system. Electrical juice can only flow one way and like a check valve restricts some air flow, the isolator does drop a little voltage as it works. SO... The center post is normally the input and the outer posts are normally the outputs. So, under normal operation, the center post should have higher voltage than the outer ones.
This would be cause battery charging problems if you had an alternator that regulates based on the voltage at the alternator output. (AKA: single wire alternator systems.)
Our alternator system is designed to sense the voltage on the engine battery side of the isolator, it will increase the voltage applied to the center post to make the output posts high enough to charge the batteries.
So... now that you "know" something about the system, how would YOU check the isolator?
Mike Miller -- Hillsboro, OR -- on the Black list
(#2)`78 23' Birchaven Rear Bath -- (#3)`77 23' Birchaven Side Bath
More Sidekicks than GMC's and a late model Malibu called 'Boo'
http://m000035.blogspot.com
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189066 is a reply to message #189053] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 11:19 |
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Search "Isolator Testing" at:
http://www.bdub.net/GMCLinks.html
I thing there are some good links provided
bdub
-----Original Message-----
From: On Behalf Of Kerry Pinkerton
Sent: Saturday, November 03, 2012 10:37 AM
Mr ERFisher wrote on Sat, 03 November 2012 09:31
> read this set of info
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.
> html
>
> - engine battery should hook directly to the starter
> - not good to crank thru the cut-off switch (370 amp draw)
> - ground from the battery to the engine
> - ground from the battery to the frame
Thanks Gene. Do you mean that the hot lead should run directly to the
starter then back to the starter solenoid? Currently it runs to the
solenoid and from there to the battery.
Is the #4 wire gauge OK or do I need to go larger?
Is there any need for a battery disconnect?
I was speaking to Ken Henderson this morning and he questions the isolator.
Do you have a link to the isolator testing procedure? I haven't run across
it yet. I'm also going to check and make sure there is an APC on the
alternator. If not, I'll be ordering one today.
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
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bdub
bdub.net
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189070 is a reply to message #189043] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 11:56 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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Thanks everyone for all the quality answers. Got more reading to do. The wife keeps asking me what I'm doing and I keep telling her that I'm reading all the GMC sites. LOL She actually thinks I'm going to get finished someday soon. Silly girl!  She has no idea how much info is online.
My battery read 12.9 Volts after charging overnight. BUT, as Matt suggested, the test showed only 110 cranking amps instead of the 850 rating so it was shot.
New 950CCA battery ready to go in. We'll see how it works before I start doing things to the wiring as was suggested. The house battery seems to be fine as it is and we'll just leave it there for now. Not planning on much dry camping anyway. Got a couple of the #2 cables and will go ahead and use them. They aren't that expensive ($5 ea).
Btw, the disconnect the PO installed is this big honking unit about 3" in diameter, not one of the battery terminal disconnects. It looks like it came out of a P51.
The PO installed a modern voltage converter and power distribution panel. I wish he had labeled the circuits but I can figure that out in time. I also wish the electronics panels weren't so dang low. Trifocals suck when you're standing on your head in the dark.
There is some extraneous wiring that I need to figure out. As I told Ken Henderson this morning, I'm not an electronics guy. I do fine with electricity. I've wired a couple houses and my shop and understand single, three phase, and rotary phase converters. Electronic components are black magic to me however. I know that a diode is a 'one way valve', a capacitor stores, a relay switches, etc. But I don't understand much about the implications of this or that and what happens if so and so is such and such. I know a few things about a lot of stuff but I know just enough about electronics to know I don't know much.
I'm probably going to be making some aluminum things for myself and to sell/give away as door prizes etc. Perhaps I'll find a way to barter some metalshaping/fabrication for electronics consulting. 
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
[Updated on: Sat, 03 November 2012 12:06] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189078 is a reply to message #189070] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 13:48 |
kerry pinkerton
Messages: 2565
Registered: July 2012
Location: Harvest, Al
Karma: 15
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Senior Member |
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New battery started up right ricki tiki...didn't even have to hit the gas. On to other problems. I checked voltage at the battery and it's 13.2. Disconnected the shore power and it didn't change so I need to investigate that some more. Don't want to make too many changes at once so I'll finish the starting circuit upgrades per Glen's wight up first.
Kerry Pinkerton - North Alabama
Had 5 over the years. Currently have a '06 Fleetwood Discovery 39L
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189091 is a reply to message #189046] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 17:10 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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Senior Member |
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Gene,
Does:
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
Mean:
- ground from the STARTING battery to the engine
- ground from the HOUSE battery to the frame
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of gene Fisher
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2012 1:31 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues
read this set of info
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html
- engine battery should hook directly to the starter
- not good to crank thru the cut-off switch (370 amp draw)
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
good luck
gene
On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 7:06 AM, Kerry Pinkerton <Pinkertonk@mchsi.com>wrote:
>
>
> Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
>
> When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it.
> NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the
> disconnect switch the wrong way.
>
> When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't
> start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises
> but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
>
> Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge
> showed 13V charging all the way.
>
> Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start
> the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it
> and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully
> charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and
> will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the
> battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the
> question.
>
> The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large
> battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is
> the problem. On the list to do.
>
> The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4
> gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2
> gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I
> go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some
> will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge
> copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm
> thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
>
> Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK
> but I'll look at it also.
>
> The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old
> 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while
> drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf
> cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is
> bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V
> for the rear.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, The Lady, 403
>
>
> 76 Eleganza being rebodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
"Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues [message #189127 is a reply to message #189091] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 22:42 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Rob,
As per the GM wiring diagrams and my grounding seminar.
1. The engine battery negative cable should go to a bolt on the engine block.
2. The house batter Negative cable should connect directly to the the Aluminum body of the motorhome.
3. No battery should ever connect directly to the steel frame of the coach.
I could give you all of the reasons for this by I'm too lazy to type it all out. Just take my word for it or read the grounding seminar on the GMC Eastern States web site.
http://www.gmceast.com/technical/Burton_Grounding_GMC_Motorhome.pdf
Ken B.
| Robert Mueller wrote on Sat, 03 November 2012 17:10 |
Gene,
Does:
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
Mean:
- ground from the STARTING battery to the engine
- ground from the HOUSE battery to the frame
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org [mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of gene Fisher
Sent: Sunday, November 04, 2012 1:31 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Battery and/or starting issues
read this set of info
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g5493-gmc-cranking-improve-for-free.html
- engine battery should hook directly to the starter
- not good to crank thru the cut-off switch (370 amp draw)
- ground from the battery to the engine
- ground from the battery to the frame
good luck
gene
On Sat, Nov 3, 2012 at 7:06 AM, Kerry Pinkerton <Pinkertonk@mchsi.com>wrote:
>
>
> Trying to work through a few issues on the new coach.
>
> When we first looked at it, we had to hit the boost button to start it.
> NOTHING on the engine battery. Decided the mechanic had thrown the
> disconnect switch the wrong way.
>
> When we went to pick it up, the engine battery was very weak and wouldn't
> start the coach. Charged it a while at the dealer and it made some noises
> but we finally just hit boost and drove it home.
>
> Better noises when we got home after a 2 hour interstate run. Gauge
> showed 13V charging all the way.
>
> Been plugged in to shore power since. Engine battery still won't start
> the engine by itself. My meter showed 12.5V on the battery so I pulled it
> and took it to my local Advance. They tested and said it was not fully
> charged but the result was iffy. I've had it on the charger all night and
> will let them test it again today. This morning, my charger says the
> battery is at 100%. Whether it stays at 100% or will take a load is the
> question.
>
> The battery connectors looked clean and were tight. There is a large
> battery disconnect in the circuit that I have not bypassed to see if it is
> the problem. On the list to do.
>
> The other thing I noticed is that they battery cables are these common 4
> gauge things. I'm wondering if I should replace them with the heavier 2
> gauge wires. There are several wires that would need to be replaced if I
> go this route. Advance sells some of the heavier cables I need but some
> will need to be fabricated. They sell the wire (clear insulation 2 gauge
> copper) by the foot with solder on connectors or crimp on connectors. I'm
> thinking I'll go the solder on approach with shrink tubing.
>
> Since the house battery starts the engine fine, I assume that wiring is OK
> but I'll look at it also.
>
> The house battery is a fairly new 12V. The engine battery is a 5 year old
> 950Amp top of the line from Advance. Based on what I've read while
> drinking from the GMC firehose here, the hot setup is to put two 6V golf
> cart batteries in series for the house battery. If my engine battery is
> bad, I can pull the house battery and move it up front and go with two 6 V
> for the rear.
>
> Thoughts, suggestions, and comments please.
> --
> Kerry Pinkerton
>
> North Alabama, near Huntsville,
>
> 77 Eleganza II, The Lady, 403
>
>
> 76 Eleganza being rebodied as an Art Deco car hauler
> _______________________________________________
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>
--
Gene Fisher -- 74-23,77PB/ore/ca
"Give a man a fish; you have fed him for today --- give him a URL and
-------
http://gmcmotorhome.info/
Alternator Protection Cable
http://gmcmotorhome.info/APC.html
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Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
|
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| Re: Battery and/or starting issues [message #189128 is a reply to message #189070] |
Sat, 03 November 2012 23:03 |
Phantom2
Messages: 94
Registered: September 2012
Location: Springfield, IL
Karma: 0
|
Member |
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For reading while standing on your head.
measure distance you need to read at when on your head, go to the drug store & buy a pair of reading glasses you can read with at that distance.
Larry
Larry Hopkins
75 Avion
Springfield, IL
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