| Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement [message #162795] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 20:51  |
Who_dun_it
Messages: 176
Registered: April 2007
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Karma: 1
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Senior Member |
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I am replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and would like to info from other folks that have performed that task. I expect to buy the copper coated gaskets from Jim K.
1. One of the manifolds is cracked. Fortunately I have another pair. Are these repairable?
2. The exhaust system did not have manifold to header pipe springs. Does someone here have them to sell or do I buy elsewhere? They seem to be readily available.
3. Is there any advantage to use socket head bolts instead of the regular ones?
4. Other than making sure that the mating surfaces are clean, are there other tips I should be aware of?
Thanks
Les
Thousand Oaks CA
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| Re: Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement [message #162805 is a reply to message #162795] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 21:29  |
Carl S.
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
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Senior Member |
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| Who_dun_it wrote on Mon, 12 March 2012 18:51 |
I am replacing the exhaust manifold gaskets and would like to info from other folks that have performed that task. I expect to buy the copper coated gaskets from Jim K.
1. One of the manifolds is cracked. Fortunately I have another pair. Are these repairable?
2. The exhaust system did not have manifold to header pipe springs. Does someone here have them to sell or do I buy elsewhere? They seem to be readily available.
3. Is there any advantage to use socket head bolts instead of the regular ones?
4. Other than making sure that the mating surfaces are clean, are there other tips I should be aware of?
Thanks
Les
Thousand Oaks CA
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Les,
One of the first things I did (had to do) to our coach when I first got it, was to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. I got them from Dave Lenzi and Dave included instructions and Thick flat washers. I assume Jim K provides the same items. Dave is very specific about how to torque the bolts and how and when to re-torque them.
I got the spring/shoulder bolt kits locally, but found them hard to use. The new bolts were not quite as long as the old ones and they were hard to get started. I ended up re-using most of the old ones. I also sourced the donuts locally.
Dave told me to not let the machine shop resurface the manifolds on a belt sander, but the machinist said he had no other way to do it. It worked out fine.
There is a recommendation here to use low grade bolts, but I didn't know any better and used grade 8s. They worked out fine and I didn't have any problem with them when I had to remove one of the manifolds in order to make the installation of the 3.70 final drive easier. I replaced the gasket on the left side at that time with a new one.
I have put about 13,000 miles on the coach since doing this job, without any sort of a problem.
Good luck. It is an easy job, especially if you remove the fender liners and do the work through the fenders.
Carl Stouffer
'75 ex Palm Beach
Tucson, AZ.
Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
[Updated on: Mon, 12 March 2012 21:33] Report message to a moderator |
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| Re: [GMCnet] Exhaust Manifold Gasket Replacement [message #162806 is a reply to message #162800] |
Mon, 12 March 2012 21:25 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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I, too, recommend the Remflex gaskets. But be VERY careful with them.
DO NOT bend them; they WILL break easily. And tighten them only as
their instructions specify; don't get carried away.
I have them on the Cad 500 and didn't follow the latter suggestion
very well, so had to replace them after 4-5K miles. Before tearing
the engine down this time, I spray washed it, with the heads and
manifolds still installed. The spray demolished the exposed portions
of the Remflexes! Left an awful looking ragged mess. I cut away the
worst of the debris around the manifold; I'm confident that the seals
were not disturbed -- hopefully I'll know that for sure tomorrow. I
have spares, just in case.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Mon, Mar 12, 2012 at 10:11 PM, Armand Minnie wrote:
>
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> I would also recommend the Remflex gaskets from JimK instead of the copper. Â Also use the tin bolt locks that JimK sells and anti-sieze. Â Torque to 14 to 18 lbs, lock them and forget them.
> --
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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