Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » more rookie questions (misc stuff)
| more rookie questions [message #130830] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 07:43  |
chasingsummer
Messages: 434
Registered: May 2011
Location: asheboro, nc
Karma: 0
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while laying on my belly board (thanks blaine) cleaning and inspecting yesterday i ran across 2 questions,
above my gas pedal and operated a close to full throttle there appears to be a switch or reostat, can anyone tell me what this switch is meant to accomplish?
dash vent and controlls, this is a 75 model eleganza with early year vin, i notice that slide switch easily slides to cold side, but will not slide all the way to hot side, makes me think adjustment since also blows warm air all the time.
do i pull front of dash face to access or, top of dash with the 2 screwss one on each side?
back in compartment where propane tank is, i have sometype of valve, looks plastic, i thought it had something to do with black tank drain since it looks similiar without the gate part, but my drain is drivers side rear, any idea what this may be for, ?
lastly, while inspecting brakes yesterday for noise i found in rear passenger side bearings and pads and all seemed good, grease was like a graphite gray in color, i wish i knew brand because it seemed to be good stuff. passenger rear wheel, brakes were at wear part of brake which was noise, but bearing had no greese it in, outer dust shield has a little that was like a medium brown looking stuff, bearing not burnt looking but had no info on at all reference to brand.
i assume it all got hot and melted grease out? what the ...?
while shopping for bottle jack at tracter supply i saw something that made me wonder.
metal ramp, it seemed to be designed to back onto with our or similiar dual wheel set up. claim was back rear tire onto, and middle tire would then be lifted off ground, or drive onto with middle tire and rear then is off ground. it looked like maybe a neat idea, has anyone seem this and tried it?
thansk bgk
brian
asheboro, nc
75 eleganza, 74 build
119k miles and counting,
DOG HOUSE
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| Re: more rookie questions [message #130832 is a reply to message #130830] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 07:55  |
GeorgeRud
Messages: 1380
Registered: February 2007
Location: Chicago, IL
Karma: 0
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If you remove the top dash cover, you will be able to see the wire cable for the heater control. It runs to a lever on the driver's side of the heater box. With help, try to move it with someone watching to see if it moves the lever on the box. It may be corroded or stuck.
The ramps you mentioned would have to lift the wheel quite a ways as the original airbag design would transfer the pressure from the lifted wheel onto the other bogie, causing that one to actually lower the wheel further. I think the bottle jack would be better. JimK has one on his site right now (Applied GMC) that looks to be a two-stage one for a very reasonable price as well.
The switch on the gas pedal is a kick down switch for the transmission.
George Rudawsky
Chicago, IL
75 Palm Beach
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| Re: more rookie questions [message #130833 is a reply to message #130830] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 07:58 |
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Hardie Johnson
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
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| chasingsummer wrote on Sun, 19 June 2011 08:43 |
<>
above my gas pedal and operated a close to full throttle there appears to be a switch or reostat, can anyone tell me what this switch is meant to accomplish?
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I believe that is the kick down switch for the transmission
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back in compartment where propane tank is, i have sometype of valve, looks plastic, i thought it had something to do with black tank drain since it looks similiar without the gate part, but my drain is drivers side rear, any idea what this may be for, ?
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possibly fresh water tank drain?
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lastly, while inspecting brakes yesterday for noise i found in rear passenger side bearings and pads and all seemed good, <>i assume it all got hot and melted grease out? what the ...?
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Clean them (I use kerosene or diesel fuel) and listen for noise when moved dry. Order replacements from the nearest Jim or relube with Mobil1 synthetic. Since you have them out why not just replace them anyway. I prefer hand packing, but there are gadgets to do that, too.
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while shopping for bottle jack at tracter supply i saw something that made me wonder.metal ramp, it seemed to be designed to back onto with our or similiar dual wheel set up.<>has anyone seem this <>?
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Those are for leaf spring dual axle trailers. I do not know if they would be of any use for our suspension.
Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
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| Re: more rookie questions [message #130879 is a reply to message #130830] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 12:55 |
idrob
Messages: 645
Registered: January 2005
Location: Central Idaho
Karma: 0
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| chasingsummer wrote on Sun, 19 June 2011 05:43 |
dash vent and controlls, this is a 75 model eleganza with early year vin, i notice that slide switch easily slides to cold side, but will not slide all the way to hot side, makes me think adjustment since also blows warm air all the time.
do i pull front of dash face to access or, top of dash with the 2 screwss one on each side?
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Your center pin on the heater/AC control may be broken causing various issues. They are available in machined aluminium rather than the original nylon, and may be you problem. I think the Jim's have them.
If it is just an adjustment, not a stuck cable, the hidden adjustment is shown in this photo:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12014&cat=4048
The other end is shown here:
http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/showphoto.php?photo=12015&cat=4048
Best of luck with the AC system. It was not the highlight of the GMC technical design, at least on the coaches up to 1977.
Rob Allen
former owner of '76 x-PB
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| Re: more rookie questions [message #130900 is a reply to message #130859] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 15:36 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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The only advantage of SynPower over conventional moly grease is it is a little higher temperature rating. Nothing else that I grease will ever get that hot so I buy conventional moly from TSC by the case. Yes it is a heck of a lot cheaper.
BTW, My John Deere, when it was new, required Moly grease to maintain the warranty. I must have 40 grease fittings on it by the time I get done greasing the front bucket, the rear mounted back hoe, plus the tractor itself.
Regular moly would work just as well but Ken H. would be all over me if I filled my wheel bearing packer with anything other than SynPower grease.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #130907 is a reply to message #130905] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 16:08 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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That's a good reminder. BUT, it's been around ever since I've had my
GMC -- 13+ years. Some of the recommendations, most especially those
for Mobil 1 grease, have proven to many us to be obsolete. I quit
using it several years ago because I didn't like seeing my grease guns
bleeding like a stuck pig (as we say in the deep South). Then when I
saw my wheel bearings and grease fittings doing the same thing, I quit
using it at all. Then I had a steering CV joint that would not
operate freely until I fortuitously used SynPower with MS02 on it;
that convinced me to start using it everywhere. That decision was
reinforced when I dredged up from somewhere the remembrance that when
Ford came out with ball joints in '54 (IIRC) and said they didn't need
greasing, it was as much because of the MS02 grease as the improved
seals they used.
I like the list, but would replace all the greases with Valvoline
SynPower or DuraBlend. But that's just based on my personal
experiences and biases.
Ken H.
Americus, GA
'76 X-Birchaven w/Cad500/Howell EFI+ & EBL
www.gmcwipersetc.com
On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 4:56 PM, R.D. Hart <regor5556@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> from GMCWS.ORG
> "What every GMC owner must know"
>
> LUBRICATION
>
> Engine oil: Single weight for ambient temp.
> - 30w for fresh engine
> - 40w for tired/hi mileage engine
>
> Chassis lubrication
> - Use extreme pressure (ep) chassis grease
> - Synthetic grease best (Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc.)
> - 13 grease zerks for front end
> - Unload by raising coach off ground
> - 4 grease zerks for rear end
> - Unload by blocking bogies/deflating bags
> - Move tire up & down while greasing
> - Grease must exit at front and rear of pins
>
> Wheel bearing lubricant
> -Use ep synthetic wheel bearing grease (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Neo Oil, etc.)
>
> Final drive (rear end/differential lubrication
> - Use EP synthetic oil at 80-90w (Mobil 1, etc.)
>
> Transmission lubricant
> - Use Dextron II or III
>
> Maintenance schedule
> - Engine oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals
> - Chassis lube Front and rear at 3000 mile intervals
> - Add grease to bogies reservoirs @ 1k mile
> - Final drive oil @ 12.5k mile intervals
> - Wipe clean with rag & New 2 piece gasket
> - Front & Rear wheel bear @ 25k mile intervals
> - Transmission oil & Filter @ 12.5k mile intervals
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #130913 is a reply to message #130907] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 16:33 |
GMCNUSA
Messages: 283
Registered: August 2006
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Karma: 0
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I agree with Ken and others the Mobil 1 bleeds badly both out of the guns and the equipment and I don't live in that hot of part of the country. I don't use it any more except in the lawnmower wheels untill its gone.
Larry Dilk
Indianapolis, IN
76 Eleganza II
Patterson 455,Turbo City TBI,
Just LOVE It!
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #130925 is a reply to message #130918] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 18:02 |
Ken Henderson
Messages: 8726
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Karma: 9
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Senior Member |
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Even disliking the stuff, I wouldn't worry about it until I saw it
seriously running out. It's still a good lubricant -- remember that
the "latest thing" in wheel bearing greasing is the use of low
viscosity oil.
I might change it at 25,000 if it didn't start leaking earlier.
Ken H.
On Sun, Jun 19, 2011 at 6:28 PM, R.D. Hart <regor5556@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> How many miles would you estimate I might get out of this Mobil 1 already installed before I change it out?
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Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #130937 is a reply to message #130905] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 18:55 |
k2gkk
Messages: 4452
Registered: November 2009
Karma: -8
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Senior Member |
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It seems a consensus recommendation is building
that the ONLY lube to use for wheel bearings is
the SynPower synthetic!
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ D C "Mac" Macdonald ~ ~~
~ ~ Amateur Radio - K2GKK ~ ~
~ ~ USAF and FAA, Retired ~ ~
~ ~ ~ Oklahoma City, OK ~ ~ ~
~~ ~ ~ "The Money Pit" ~ ~ ~~
~~ ~ ~ (TZE166V101966) ~ ~ ~~
~ ~ ~ ex-Palm Beach, 76 ~ ~ ~
~ www.gmcmhphotos.com/okclb ~
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~
----------------------------------------
> To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
> From: regor5556@yahoo.com
> Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 15:56:56 -0500
> Subject: Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions
>
>
>
> from GMCWS.ORG
> "What every GMC owner must know"
>
> LUBRICATION
>
> Engine oil: Single weight for ambient temp.
> - 30w for fresh engine
> - 40w for tired/hi mileage engine
>
> Chassis lubrication
> - Use extreme pressure (ep) chassis grease
> - Synthetic grease best (Mobil 1, Amsoil, etc.)
> - 13 grease zerks for front end
> - Unload by raising coach off ground
> - 4 grease zerks for rear end
> - Unload by blocking bogies/deflating bags
> - Move tire up & down while greasing
> - Grease must exit at front and rear of pins
>
> Wheel bearing lubricant
> -Use ep synthetic wheel bearing grease (Mobil 1, Amsoil, Neo Oil, etc.)
>
> Final drive (rear end/differential lubrication
> - Use EP synthetic oil at 80-90w (Mobil 1, etc.)
>
> Transmission lubricant
> - Use Dextron II or III
>
> Maintenance schedule
> - Engine oil and filter at 3000 mile intervals
> - Chassis lube Front and rear at 3000 mile intervals
> - Add grease to bogies reservoirs @ 1k mile
> - Final drive oil @ 12.5k mile intervals
> - Wipe clean with rag & New 2 piece gasket
> - Front & Rear wheel bear @ 25k mile intervals
> - Transmission oil & Filter @ 12.5k mile intervals
>
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #130948 is a reply to message #130918] |
Sun, 19 June 2011 19:44 |
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USAussie
Messages: 15912
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
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G'day,
Maintenance Manuals X-7425 (73-74 GMC) and MM X-7525 have a chart called:
ENGINE, CHASSIS, AND BODY MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
WHEN TO PERFORM SERVICES - Services
Every 24,000 miles Rear Wheel Bearings - Clean & Repack
MM X-7625 (1976 GMC Supplement) - does not have the chart
MM X-7725 (1977 & 1978 GMC Supplement has the chart:
WHEN TO PERFORM SERVICES - Services
Every 24,000 miles Rear Wheel Bearings - Clean & Repack
(38,000 KM) 1978 Vehicles, Front Wheel Bearings Clean and
Repack
I have NO idea why the front wheel bearings were left out of MM X-7425 and
X-7525. Nor do I have any idea why they specified 1978 Vehicles in MM X7725.
Bottom line I reckon if you have Mobil 1 in the front wheel bearings you can
go for 24,000 miles IF it's not bleeding.
Dave Lenzi swears by Mobil 1 and if you order an assembled hub-knuckle-brake
disk from him the bearings come packed with it (I did). I discussed my
preference for Valvoline Synpower and asked if I could just start greasing
the bearing through the grease nipple he added to the knuckle. He noted that
they should be compatible. I quipped the operative words in that sentence
was "should be." He laughed. I think I'll disassemble the front hubs /
knuckles to make sure I don't find out they're not compatible!
Regards,
Rob M.
USAussie - Downunder
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
-----Original Message-----
From: gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org
[mailto:gmclist-bounces@temp.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of R.D. Hart
Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 8:28 AM
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions
How many miles would you estimate I might get out of this Mobil 1 already
installed before I change it out?
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Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #131025 is a reply to message #130948] |
Mon, 20 June 2011 02:46 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Dave Lenzi told me the same thing. I greased my fronts with SynPower at 12,000 miles. I asked why he used mobil one and he said only that he though tit was readily available all across the country. When I greased my fronts not much old mobile one came out. I do not know where it all went. I know my rears went almost dry quickly. It was about 4,000 miles before Blaine found the problem.
If I had the crap in my rears I would be pulling the bearing caps every 3,000 or so to make sure it had not turned to oil. Also look closely at the rear wheel seals on the other side of the wheels for oily leaks.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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| Re: [GMCnet] more rookie questions [message #131048 is a reply to message #131026] |
Mon, 20 June 2011 08:32 |
Ken Burton
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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Actually I was talking about the wheel seals on the rears.
After seeing what almost happened to my rear bearings, I would not trust that stuff that he put it there over a few thousand miles. We were going to a rally and stopped by to meet Blaine and Diane to convoy with them. We put my coach on his lift to check something else and that is when Blaine found my problem. Needless to say re re-packed all 4 wheels before continuing on to the rally. I think we were headed to he Albuquerque Balloon festival at the time.
Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
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