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Re: Yandina combiner cycles [message #329989 is a reply to message #329967] Wed, 14 March 2018 19:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie is currently offline  Matt Colie   United States
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Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
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Tilerpep wrote on Wed, 14 March 2018 10:16
Update
More info, and a few experiments:

The 78 had a West Marine 150 combiner, which has a little label hidden on the back that said it was a Yandina and it needed the "minimum six feet of 6 gauge or less wire" connecting it (which it did not have). The Yandina site says this particular model is discontinued. I bought six feet of 8 gauge wire, split it to three foot sections and moved the Yandina/West Marine unit to the 75, keeping the isolator. Wow, 8 gauge was overkill, and too stiff to work with easily. I forget (have read on here before) why the six feet is needed.

I installed the new victron combiner in the 78 (no isolator). It did not say anything about six feet of lead wire, so I used the previous connectors.

Yesterday I worked in the 78 with all the interior lights and running lights on to load both systems while I fiddled with a new rotor, cap, timing and bunch of other systems. It did cycle the combiner, but not too often, and the noise is less of a clunk. With only the house side loaded, it seemed to cycle less than the Yandina.

I paid about $50 for the Victron, and Jim K has the Yandina 100 for $65 with the wiring premade. The Victron does not have an indicator light telling you when it is combining, the Yandina does. I think I would go with Jim K's Yandina if I were doing another one, both are a nice addition to stock setup.

Tyler,

The 6 feet of wire is an over current protection.

The light load Yandina are a very different animal than most anything else. The contacts are not very robust. They (she) changed this in the later versions.

Because the calibration of these devices is kind of critical, most that I know of do cycle when not in an overt charging situation. It will survive the cycle life. I installed more than a few of them before BHO put us out of business. I also did replace a few, but not a huge number. Some just wore out and a few did die of a control circuit failure. Yandina did cover those.

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: Yandina combiner cycles [message #330114 is a reply to message #329989] Sat, 17 March 2018 16:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Hardie Johnson is currently offline  Hardie Johnson   United States
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Location: Raleigh NC
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I have one in the coach and one in the boat. There is a lead that goes to ()ground?) which I ran thru a switch to lock the two systems together. Eventually I will have another in the coach for the Onan battery.
The other thing is do not cut the leads or use larger wire diameter. It needs to have some resistance or it damages the circuit and relay by running too much current through it.


Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
Re: [GMCnet] Yandina combiner cycles [message #330115 is a reply to message #330114] Sat, 17 March 2018 16:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
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Those things sound like a failure waiting for a place to happen. Near as I
can tell, they won't do anything a jumper wire will not do, except to open
the hatch and connect and disconnect it. Those "set it and forget it"
devices seem to have an achilles heel when it comes to longevity from my
personal experience with them. The Yandina brand seems in my experience to
be the most failure prone. But, your experience might vary from mine.
My 78 Royale with a stock isolator had been sitting since our
Christmas Rally in early december. I went out on Tuesday, turned on the
ignition key, flipped the rocker switch on the fuel tanks to aux to
activate the electric fuel pump, tapped the accelerator once to set the
choke, and turned the key to start. Engine turned about 3 or 4 revolutions
and fired right up, just like always. If they are right, and you don't have
any "phantom loads" on the engine battery, that should work for you also.
Just saying, K.I.S.S.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403

On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 2:14 PM, Hardie Johnson wrote:

> I have one in the coach and one in the boat. There is a lead that goes to
> ()ground?) which I ran thru a switch to lock the two systems together.
> Eventually I will have another in the coach for the Onan battery.
> The other thing is do not cut the leads or use larger wire diameter. It
> needs to have some resistance or it damages the circuit and relay by running
> too much current through it.
> --
> Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
> 1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
> Raleigh NC
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
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Re: [GMCnet] Yandina combiner cycles [message #330116 is a reply to message #330115] Sat, 17 March 2018 17:31 Go to previous message
Hardie Johnson is currently offline  Hardie Johnson   United States
Messages: 483
Registered: January 2004
Location: Raleigh NC
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Lots of time technology makes a move forward. The original device was a failure that happened.Over & over & over.
James Hupy wrote on Sat, 17 March 2018 17:33
Those things sound like a failure waiting for a place to happen.<>
Just saying, K.I.S.S.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
78 GMC Royale 403

On Sat, Mar 17, 2018 at 2:14 PM, Hardie Johnson wrote:

> I have one in the coach and one in the boat. There is a lead that goes to
> ()ground?) which I ran thru a switch to lock the two systems together.<>
> Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
> 1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
> Raleigh NC
>
> _______________________________________________
<>



Hardie Johnson "Crashj"
1973 26 foot Glacier, White Thing
Raleigh NC
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