Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler?
Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #326902] |
Fri, 08 December 2017 11:30 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I try real hard to over grease my coach, but even with a really good grease gun, it is still a bear.
It is always tough to get the coupler on the Zerk and then keep it on while pumping.
I am hoping someone has spent the money for one of these and can offer a first hand opinion:
https://locknlube.com/collections/locknlube-grease-coupler
Thanks
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #326905 is a reply to message #326902] |
Fri, 08 December 2017 12:04 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971 Registered: March 2013 Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I picked up a different style one without the 'rocker' type release at SEMA a couple of years ago. The one I bough has a disconnect similiar to a quick disconnect air fitting. The only problem with it is that disconnecting it when under pressure can be a real chore. The manufacturer offered a open/close valve that would cure the problem but I haven't yet adapted it to the gun. The one you show may cause some issues with the size in tight spots. If you can fit it in, it sure makes things easier.
Hal
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind, except you happen to be insane."
1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
|
|
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327015 is a reply to message #327002] |
Mon, 11 December 2017 12:43 |
Wackster
Messages: 49 Registered: November 2017 Location: Baltimore
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
As a new owner myself, this post leads me to think I am remiss for not having done any greasing to date (one year and about 3000 miles since purchase). Knowing that we frequently use remotely mounted zircs for hard to reach bearings on pumps, air handlers, etc. at my facility, perhaps this product could be adapted for hard to reach zircs on the GMC: http://greaseextensionhoses.com/
Jim Wack - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
|
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327028 is a reply to message #327024] |
Mon, 11 December 2017 20:22 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Quote:James wrote on Mon, 11 December 2017 13:43]As a new owner myself, this post leads me to think I am remiss for not having done any greasing to date (one year and about 3000 miles since purchase). Knowing that we frequently use remotely mounted zircs for hard to reach bearings on pumps, air handlers, etc. at my facility, perhaps this product could be adapted for hard to reach zircs on the GMC: http://greaseextensionhoses.com/
Pete Smith wrote on Mon, 11 December 2017 19:08]I like that idea. If it's easy it will get done much more often.....
Just have check every now and then it's still connected
Pete
James and Pete,
Greasing all 18 normal places on a GMC is only difficult because some are difficult to get the coupler to stay on. If you have a two handed grease gun it can be very difficult to keep it on. If you get a one handed grease gun, that helps a lot. It does not require a lot of grip strength to do.
I suggest that you consider getting either the lock on coupler (I ordered one) and a good grease gun, or a good one handed version. Some years back I settled on a Lincoln 1133. This was after I had tried a similar tool from Hazard Fright. I took that one back. I am hoping that the lock on coupler and the Lincoln 1133 will finally make the job trivial. (But I am sure it will still be nasty.)
As a ship's engineer, I am very familiar with remote grease systems, but the problem the coach represents is that most of the places you really need to grease are on moving elements and remote grease lines are about as friendly as brake hoses. I don't think I want three more brake lines to each knuckle.
The real reason you have to keep at greasing things is because the seals are bad. Out in my garage is a 1995 Honda that has over 250K on it. No part of the running gear has ever been relubricated. If I could get parts with those kind of seals for the coach, I would do so in a heartbeat.
There is the problem with any non-manual system, you can't feel the grease go in. This is a big issue where you cannot see the boot swell. If you use a pneumatic gun, they happily chuff away even if there is no grease going in. I was able to recognize an issue with a lower ball joint because it would not take grease. That allowed me to replace it before a critical failure.
Added note: There are now a number of cordless powered grease guns available. A quick E-bay survey found some good names available in the 200+$ range. Even I am tempted. When you consider that you will be charged at least an hour for a front end lube for the coach and at any shop I would trust, that will almost cover the cost of that tool on the first use. (Yes, I do run my life at the bottom right corner of a spread sheet.) And you can be sure it was done right. You can always get some native guide from the Black's list to supervise.
If you have an older coach, (the exact years escape me at the moment), the lubrication for the bogie pins was set up wrong. So, I carry a straight gun onboard and they to hit them every 1K. Those are just 4 of the 18. Those other 14 you get on your back on the ground or on a lift. Except the two on the steering shaft, I take the grill out for those.
Many of us have also gone to a synthetic grease as they have less heat issues and almost don't age out. I prefer one that has MoS2 in it because I love that stuff. (Unless you get it on something you like.)
In the owners manual, GM called for a 3K service interval for the greased parts. That should be good enough. But way early in my mechanical career (that spans over 50 years) I learned that grease is always cheaper than parts....
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327055 is a reply to message #327028] |
Tue, 12 December 2017 16:26 |
Wackster
Messages: 49 Registered: November 2017 Location: Baltimore
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
Matt,
Thanks for the thoughtful response. That about sums it up for me. Found a nice diagram for 17 of the 18 grease points here: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/532691462165025085/. I Will have to track this image down in my actual manuals.
BTW, where did you serve as a ship's engineer? Just curious - I've been in facilities operations and maintenance since 2003 and have crossed paths with many former maritime engineers. Never new or thought of that career path when I was coming up. It would have have been a good fit for me.
Jim Wack - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327059 is a reply to message #327055] |
Tue, 12 December 2017 18:50 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Wackster wrote on Tue, 12 December 2017 17:26Matt,
Thanks for the thoughtful response. That about sums it up for me. Found a nice diagram for 17 of the 18 grease points here: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/532691462165025085/. I Will have to track this image down in my actual manuals.
BTW, where did you serve as a ship's engineer? Just curious - I've been in facilities operations and maintenance since 2003 and have crossed paths with many former maritime engineers. Never new or thought of that career path when I was coming up. It would have have been a good fit for me.
John,
It was my pleasure to do so. I got to where I am with the help of a lot wonderful people. Some of them write here. Now that you know where they are, you have fewer excuses to not take care of them. My coach as 18 points because there is a point at the connection of the relay lever and the intermediate rod. I also now have one on each knuckle so the wheel bearings can get greased without tearing it apart. Unlike the picture you found. (It exists in the manual too. Look at 0-15 or 9-1) There maybe doubles at the bogie pins. If your coach is a 75 or later, that is a good mod to do.
As a much younger person, I worked the east coast as unlicensed engine, and a coastal pilot. Then I went to a trade school at Ft. Schuyler and got a license (and a degree) so people would finally listen to me. When I finally got the papers in hand, that was when Viet Nam was winding down and there were no open berths at all on the coast. So, I had had nothing like a vacation for 6 years at that point. I went to my bother's in South Carolina for a visit, and them came to Michigan to visit my sister. My bother in law suggested that if ships are what I do, I could do that here.
To that I said - RIGHT (read sarcasm)
He was right. More than that they were hurting for open license engineers. The ships were museum pieces, but ships none the less. So, I did that a lot (on and off) for the next seven years.
We ships engineers are a strange bunch. You get to be one only if you A: Get recommended by chief engineer somewhere (you worked for him), and B: Pass a three day long written test on the technology of western man including anything that might ever show up on a ship. So, you get out in the rest of the world and get to marvel at the specialization some stick them selves with.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327060 is a reply to message #327059] |
Tue, 12 December 2017 20:15 |
Wackster
Messages: 49 Registered: November 2017 Location: Baltimore
Karma: 0
|
Member |
|
|
Thanks again. Good story. So Fort Schuyler = SUNY Maritime College? Personally, South Carolina sounds better than Michigan, but then I guess it all worked out for you. Safe travels. Hope our paths cross one day.
Jim Wack - 1976 23' Crestmont
Baltimore, Maryland
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327065 is a reply to message #327060] |
Wed, 13 December 2017 06:39 |
GMC.LES
Messages: 505 Registered: April 2014
Karma: -2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Generic grease gun couplers are a PITA, unless you understand how to use them. For a simple trick, keep reading.
When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
SIMPLE TRICK
The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers, and re-install barely finger tight.
Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and frustration.
I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
Les Burt
Montreal
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
Re: Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327069 is a reply to message #327060] |
Wed, 13 December 2017 08:29 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Wackster wrote on Tue, 12 December 2017 21:15Thanks again. Good story. So Fort Schuyler = SUNY Maritime College? Personally, South Carolina sounds better than Michigan, but then I guess it all worked out for you. Safe travels. Hope our paths cross one day.
Yeap, SUNY.
South Carolina had some charm, but Ann Arbor was a great place to be young single and crazy - even if I was gone for months at a time in the summer. My brother has been known to mention that they have something blooming every day of the year, but he also neglects to mention that there is something that crawls and bites every day of the year. And there was not much demand for any king of engineers.
When you make it to an international (and you should), we will probably meet. We still don't know where 2018 fall is going to be. I'm not trying for Tucson.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327088 is a reply to message #327065] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 09:18 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Les Burt[1 wrote on Wed, 13 December 2017 07:39]Generic grease gun couplers are a PITA, unless you understand how to use them. For a simple trick, keep reading.
When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
SIMPLE TRICK
The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers, and re-install barely finger tight.
Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and frustration.
I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
Les Burt
Montreal
Les,
I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get on, the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping, but pumping takes at least twice as long.
What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under the coach, it am going to look for this case.
I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one is tight.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327093 is a reply to message #327088] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 10:05 |
GMC.LES
Messages: 505 Registered: April 2014
Karma: -2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt
I have rarely seen a zerk that was so excessively worn on the exterior that the coupler wouldn't hold. It does happen, but usually from external interferences do rubbing. I have seen zerks that were partially blocked internally, requiring excess pressure to get the grease to flow into the joint. The excess pressure can cause the coupler to pop off.
I would definitely try new zerks on the most problematic grease points. It's a cheap step to try.
But I'm sure you already knew this!
;)
Les Burt
Montreal
'75 Eleganza 26'
> On Dec 14, 2017, at 10:18 AM, Matt Colie wrote:
>
> Les Burt[1
>> wrote on Wed, 13 December 2017 07:39]Generic grease gun couplers are a PITA, unless you understand how to use them. For a simple trick, keep
>> reading.
>>
>> When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk
>> if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
>>
>>
>> The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
>>
>> SIMPLE TRICK
>>
>> The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers,
>> and re-install barely finger tight.
>>
>> Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and
>> frustration.
>>
>> I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no
>> longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my
>> guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
>>
>>
>> I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
>>
>> Les Burt
>> Montreal
>
> Les,
>
> I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get on,
> the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping, but
> pumping takes at least twice as long.
>
> What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under the
> coach, it am going to look for this case.
>
> I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one is
> tight.
>
> Matt
> --
> Matt & Mary Colie - '73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
> Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan
> OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
> SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327098 is a reply to message #327088] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 12:57 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
G'day,
I have five grease guns in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far they have worked just fine:
Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-grease-gun-61575.html
One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).
The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).
The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
One of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-3-oz-grease-95575.html
This gun is filled with silicone grease to grease the lower control arm urethane bushings on the Kingsley.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
I DO NOT store the Mobil 1 or Synpower guns with the cartridges in them because the pressure of the spring that forces the grease
into the pump causes it to separate. I remove them and wrap one end with Glad Wrap and put the plastic cap on the other and store
them horizontally.
Re: the grease nipple getting stuck on the zerk; click on the link below and use the Zoom tool to expand the view of the fitting at
the end of the hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
Note that there are two hex sections, one on the hose and a second on the part that attaches to the zerk. In the photo you will
notice a section just to the left of the hex on end that has two lines on it; that is the female pipe fitting that attaches to the
hose. I have discovered that part that attaches to the zerk can come loose where the female pipe section attaches to that piece and
it makes it impossible to get it off the zerk. When this happens I tighten the fitting and then I can remove the grease gun from the
zerk.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327105 is a reply to message #327088] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 13:35 |
Hal StClair
Messages: 971 Registered: March 2013 Location: Rio Rancho NM
Karma: -12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt, this is the one I'm using. It's only slightly larger than the original fittings. Only issue is it seems to be difficult to remove from the zerk sometimes, especially with grease on my hands.
https://www.amazon.com/Lock-Grease-Coupler-Connect-Disconnect/dp/B00TLD6VR8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1513279696&sr=8-4&keywords=lock+on+grea se+gun+coupler
Hal
Matt Colie wrote on Thu, 14 December 2017 08:18Les Burt[1 wrote on Wed, 13 December 2017 07:39]Generic grease gun couplers are a PITA, unless you understand how to use them. For a simple trick, keep reading.
When new, grease gun couplers can be hard to engage the zerk, and harder to remove. If under pressure during removal, you risk breaking the zerk if you force the coupler. Under these circumstances, you often damage the jaws, and this is why the coupler won't stay engaged on older grease guns.
The above is because we are not using the generic coupler to its full potential.
SIMPLE TRICK
The coupler jaws are held in place with a threaded collar. When new, the collar is quite tight. Before first use, loosen that collar with pliers, and re-install barely finger tight.
Now, if your coupler is hard to remove, don't force it. Loosen the collar first, and the coupler will release the zerk without effort and frustration.
I was changing couplers every few months until I started doing the above. Now the couplers have lasted several years without problems, and they no longer fall off the zerk by themselves. I now rarely need to hold the coupler while greasing, and can operate my guns with both hands. Most of my guns have 14" hose wips and long levers, which require both hands to operate.
I can't take credit for the above trick as it was posted on GMCNet a while back.
Les Burt
Montreal
Les,
I have been tending to the couplers I have carefully, but the problem with the two handed gun was that working even with the coupler hard to get on, the effort of working the gun would sometimes pop it loose. So, I got a good one handed gun and I can hold the coupler straight while pumping, but pumping takes at least twice as long.
What all of this has me wondering is if the fittings are maybe too worn to hold the coupler well. As I will soon have most of them out from under the coach, it am going to look for this case.
I am concerned that the new locking coupler will be too large to get on the fitting in cardan joint in the bottom of the steering shaft. That one is tight.
Matt
"I enjoy talking to you. Your mind appeals to me. It resembles my own mind, except you happen to be insane."
1977 Royale 101348,
1977 Royale 101586, Diesel powered,
1974 Eagle Bus 45',w/slideout,
Rio Rancho, NM
[Updated on: Thu, 14 December 2017 13:37] Report message to a moderator
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327109 is a reply to message #327098] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 15:04 |
|
Matt Colie
Messages: 8547 Registered: March 2007 Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
|
Senior Member |
|
|
With my Lincoln grease guns that are both loaded with SynPower, they don't bleed.
I had Dave do my knuckles with SynPower.
The one I carry in the coach is always messy, but it has always been I did not give it a bath before loading SymPower and clearing it.
Matt
USAussie wrote on Thu, 14 December 2017 13:57G'day,
I have five grease guns in the USA all from Harbor Freight and so far they have worked just fine:
Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-grease-gun-61575.html
One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).
The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
Two of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
One is for Mobil 1 (Dave Lenzi supplied hubs, knuckles, and disks fully assembled and pre lubed with Mobil 1 for Double Trouble so
that's what I stayed with).
The second is for Valvoline Synpower used everywhere else on the coach.
One of these: https://www.harborfreight.com/grease-gun-with-3-oz-grease-95575.html
This gun is filled with silicone grease to grease the lower control arm urethane bushings on the Kingsley.
https://www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
I DO NOT store the Mobil 1 or Synpower guns with the cartridges in them because the pressure of the spring that forces the grease
into the pump causes it to separate. I remove them and wrap one end with Glad Wrap and put the plastic cap on the other and store
them horizontally.
Re: the grease nipple getting stuck on the zerk; click on the link below and use the Zoom tool to expand the view of the fitting at
the end of the hose.
https://www.harborfreight.com/air-grease-gun-with-12-in-hose-68293.html
Note that there are two hex sections, one on the hose and a second on the part that attaches to the zerk. In the photo you will
notice a section just to the left of the hex on end that has two lines on it; that is the female pipe fitting that attaches to the
hose. I have discovered that part that attaches to the zerk can come loose where the female pipe section attaches to that piece and
it makes it impossible to get it off the zerk. When this happens I tighten the fitting and then I can remove the grease gun from the
zerk.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
|
|
|
|
Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler? [message #327113 is a reply to message #327109] |
Thu, 14 December 2017 15:39 |
|
USAussie
Messages: 15912 Registered: July 2007 Location: Sydney, Australia
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Matt,
How does the Lincoln grease gun force grease into the pump?
Dave supplied the hubs and knuckles in 2008 or 2009 before I knew much about greases that were available so I went with his choice.
I don't understand why the one in your coach is messy if it doesn't bleed.
Regards,
Rob M.
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
AUS '75 Avion - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
USA '75 Avion - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
USA '77 Kingsley - TZE 267V100808
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Matt Colie
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2017 8:04 AM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Any experience with Lock and Lube Grease coupler?
With my Lincoln grease guns that are both loaded with SynPower, they don't bleed.
I had Dave do my knuckles with SynPower.
The one I carry in the coach is always messy, but it has always been I did not give it a bath before loading SymPower and clearing
it.
Matt
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Regards,
Rob M. (USAussie)
The Pedantic Mechanic
Sydney, Australia
'75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428
'75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sun Apr 28 07:26:35 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 0.01289 seconds
|