Google
Home » GMC » GMCnet » How To Change Your Oil
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #175859 is a reply to message #175824 ] Sat, 07 July 2012 09:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
A Hamilto  is currently offline A Hamilto
Messages: 1278
Registered: April 2011
Senior Member
midlf wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 21:23

Not to worry. Just change it 17% sooner. <GRIN> If it does bother you, what about the oil volume in the cooler and cooler lines?
Yet another reason to get more out of the crankcase. Looks like I have to figure out how to drain that quart out of the front of the pan. Icepick and a sheet metal screw maybe.


'73 23' Sequoia For Camping
'73 23' CanyonLands For Sale
UA (Upper Alabama)
"Time is money. If you use YOUR time, you get to keep YOUR money."
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #175870 is a reply to message #175859 ] Sat, 07 July 2012 11:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JShot  is currently offline JShot
Messages: 247
Registered: October 2006
Location: NW Ohio
Senior Member
To further this discussion, here's some links I found for your perusal. I'm not advocating that any owner try this, but if you do, please document it for the rest of us Very Happy

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/455-rebuild-in-progress/p10340.html

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/3/GMC_2nd_oil_drain_plug.pdf

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/455-r-amp-r-engine-work/p11015.html

Thanks to the owners for posting these pics!

Shot


John Shotwell
Ridgeville Corners, OH
78 Royale Center Kitchen
Web Site: GMCmhRegistry.com / Email: john@gmcmhregistry.com
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #175874 is a reply to message #175798 ] Sat, 07 July 2012 11:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jim Wagner  is currently offline Jim Wagner
Messages: 241
Registered: February 2004
Location: Brook Park, Oh
Senior Member
Skip,
I just finished installing JRs SS hoses to the oil cooler and found the oil had drained back to the pan from the heat exchanger.

Jim Wagner
With a 2 drain Caddy
Brook Park, oh


It was brought up about the quart left over in the front of the pan, but what about the oil in the heat exchanger and lines do they drain or do they stay there too? Does the 6 quart oil change include the adapter lines and heat exchanger ?
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #175899 is a reply to message #175874 ] Sat, 07 July 2012 14:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
skip2  is currently offline skip2
Messages: 205
Registered: September 2011
Location: Winter Haven,FL (center o...
Senior Member
Thanks
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #175901 is a reply to message #175828 ] Sat, 07 July 2012 14:58 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Johnny Bridges  is currently offline Johnny Bridges
Messages: 2417
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Senior Member
I was wondering.  Cos mine - which has the stock dipstick - wants fairly close to six qts to be 'full' after I leakcheck and turn it off and let it sit.  And, it doesn't blow oil overboard when I bring it up to the 'full' mark on the stick.  I'm not sure exactly how much, cos I buy big buckets of Rotella 15W-40 for the coach and the diesel toad, and usually change both of them together.
 
--johnny
'76 23' transmode norris
'76 palm beach
 

From: Ken Henderson <hend4800@bellsouth.net>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Friday, July 6, 2012 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil

Since the oil fill tube is at the front of the engine, the front pan
section is the first filled; all over 1 qt (that is, alll that's added
since the front section stays full) spills over into the deep end until, at
a TOTAL of about 6 quarts, the level in both front and rear sections is
about the same.

Ken H.

On Fri, Jul 6, 2012 at 10:17 PM, Jay Rabe wrote:

> ...
> So here's my confusion: I get that the front of the pan retains a quart,
> so when you drain it, you only get 5 qts out, so you best only put 5 qts
> back in...
>
> But I don't understand the deal with the dip stick. Are you saying the GM
> engineers designing this didn't put the mark on the dipstick in the right
> place??? They surely knew about the front of the pan retaining a quart of
> oil...
>
> Doesn't the oil in the depression when the pan is full of oil still
> contribute to raising the level on the dipstick?
> Another way of asking, if you had a drain plug in the front, and drained
> ALL of the oil out, you'd need to put 6 qts back in, right? And wouldn't
> the level showing on the dip stick then be at the standard stock OEM full
> mark?
>
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


"Sometimes I wonder what tomorrow's gonna bring when I think about my dirty life and times" --Warren Zevon
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176137 is a reply to message #175822 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 12:19 Go to previous messageGo to next message
PETEinLongBeach  is currently offline PETEinLongBeach
Messages: 89
Registered: June 2007
Location: Long Beach, CA
Member
jayrabe wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 19:17


So here's my confusion: I get that the front of the pan retains a quart, so when you drain it, you only get 5 qts out, so you best only put 5 qts back in...

But I don't understand the deal with the dip stick. Are you saying the GM engineers designing this didn't put the mark on the dipstick in the right place??? They surely knew about the front of the pan retaining a quart of oil...



Yeah, I'm having some trouble with this part of the procedure as well. Hard to believe the owner's manual, repair manual, dipstick, etc. are all wrong from the factory over a period of 6 model years. I keep mine topped up to the full mark on the original factory dipstick, and it is not blowing off a bunch of oil or exhibiting unusual consumption or any other symptoms. As far as I know, it has been maintained likewise its entire life.


Pete Smay
Long Beach, CA
1977 Kingsley
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176168 is a reply to message #176137 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 18:47 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton  is currently offline Ken Burton
Messages: 4746
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Senior Member

Five quarts, after a filter and oil change, fills mine to the full line on the dip stick.


Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176181 is a reply to message #176168 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 19:30 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie  is currently offline Matt Colie
Messages: 3131
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Senior Member
Ken Burton wrote on Mon, 09 July 2012 19:47

Five quarts, after a filter and oil change, fills mine to the full line on the dip stick.

And the same will fill mine to the ADD mark. If I add the extra quart, it will be gone in less than 1000 miles, but the level stays at the ADD mark after that. Go Figure??

Matt


Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176185 is a reply to message #176181 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 20:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Robert Mueller  is currently offline Robert Mueller
Messages: 9201
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Senior Member
G'day,

There is something that no one has noted re the oil dipstick. It is housed
in a copper tube that runs down from the Drivers side hood to the crankcase.

Do you reckon these were a pre fabbed part or made at GMC when the coach was
on the assembly line.

Regards,
Rob M.


_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


Rob Mueller Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #176191 is a reply to message #175798 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 22:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455  is currently offline JohnL455
Messages: 1251
Registered: October 2006
Location: CHICAGO
Senior Member
I'm not one for the LOOONG drain time with the plug out, on this or any vehicle. I think that restarting without a completely full filter (you never get it all the way) is a lot harder on the engine than getting every last drop out (not to mention the quart). If you want cleaner, just change at a shorter time interval. Same thoughts on coolant and flushing especially with cleaners added you never really get all out. And forget about the Trans flush scam. Good way to get particles from some other guy in your valve body. Don't be concerned about the friction material in the bottom of the trans pan. It settles there and is out of circuit. Of course you clean it out when you drop the pan, but until then the trans doesn't "know" it's there. Also don't keep taking the air filter out to look at it and not replace it. This is a great way to get dirt disturbed and into the engine.


John Lebetski
Chicago, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #176194 is a reply to message #175856 ] Mon, 09 July 2012 22:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
ggroth  is currently offline ggroth
Messages: 255
Registered: February 2004
Location: Carson City NV
Senior Member

I find that pulling the oil filter usually makes a mess; I use a sharp punch and put a hole in the bottom of the thing and let it drain into my large pan, then unscrew it. Sure saves a mess for me.


geo groth '73 260 Sequoia Carson City Nevada 89703
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #176283 is a reply to message #175844 ] Tue, 10 July 2012 23:13 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Bob de Kruyff  is currently offline Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 2344
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Senior Member
Mike Miller wrote on Sat, 07 July 2012 01:22

Bob de Kruyff wrote on Fri, 06 July 2012 20:51

Why not just pull the plug and drain till it stops and then refill to the full mark? Life is to short to turn this into a science project.


Quite often the marks on the dipstick are not correct. JShot's procedure addresses this.

Once you have the correct level marked on your dipstick, sure, you could just fill it to the new full mark... it'll take 5 quarts! Rolling Eyes


That's not my point--if the dispstick is off you have a different issue. BTW, I really doubt that many dipsticks are off at all. The concern about getting the front part of the pan to drain is pure silliness and another thing to fret about that has no bearing on the longevity of your engine.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176284 is a reply to message #176283 ] Tue, 10 July 2012 23:28 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Robert Mueller  is currently offline Robert Mueller
Messages: 9201
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Senior Member
Bob,

Then I guess the engineers at Cadillac that designed the 500 were all
"silly" when they put a drain in the front section of the pan! ;-)

Regards,
Rob M.


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob de Kruyff


That's not my point--if the dispstick is off you have a different issue.
BTW, I really doubt that many dipsticks are off at all. The concern about
getting the front part of the pan to drain is pure silliness and another
thing to fret about that has no bearing on the longevity of your engine.
--
Bob

_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


Rob Mueller Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #176303 is a reply to message #176283 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 08:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Matt Colie  is currently offline Matt Colie
Messages: 3131
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Senior Member
Bob de Kruyff wrote on Wed, 11 July 2012 00:13

That's not my point--if the dispstick is off you have a different issue. BTW, I really doubt that many dipsticks are off at all. The concern about getting the front part of the pan to drain is pure silliness and another thing to fret about that has no bearing on the longevity of your engine.

Hey Guys,
Let me tell you what I well remember from being a part of the Detroit engineering community in those days..
GM had two groups CPC - Chevrolet, Pontiac and Canada (Cheap Practical Cars) and BOC - Buick, Oldsmobile and Cadillac (Big Opulent Cars). Until the forced homolegation, they were pretty much independent groups that shared a few resources. The one thing that they had in common was that each group though all the others were idiots.

The fact that you could not drain all the oil out of an Olds FWD was a source of amusement to both Cadillac and Buick engineers. I was involved in a meeting and had to work very hard to keep my mouth shut (then a recently acquired skill) because we were discussing monitoring lube oil consumption of Cadillac BB test engines. The Cadillac engineers were convinced that the quart left in the Olds pan was a big issue. What they were not aware of or not concerned with was the one and an half quart hang-up in a Cadillac even with the front pan drain.

We had built (from dry parts) at least six engines (really to test bore hone techniques) and each took almost eight quarts (we actually filled in grams) and the best we could drain without a complex drain procedure was about six. With a complex eight-stop (turn the crank 90° every 30 seconds for two complete turns) we could get that near seven. So, no matter what, there was at least a one quart hang-up.

Where does all that oil hang-up??
Start with a Dry engine.
Now fill the lash adjusters, chain tensioner, all the little puddles in rocker arms, the hollow push rods and other pockets in the castings. Then there is the internal surface of the castings, oil passages and seal spaces. Don't discount the balance holes drilled in the crank, they can be good.
Doesn't sound like that much, does it?? Add it up.

Do I worry about that quart in the front of the pan?
No, I don't, but if I ever have the pan loose, I may and the drain just for my own convenience.

Matt - the aged lab rat


Matt & Mary Colie
'73 Glacier 23 Chaumière (say show-me-air)
Now with 4 working Rear Brakes
SE Michigan - Twixt A2 and Detroit
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176307 is a reply to message #176303 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 08:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Robert Mueller  is currently offline Robert Mueller
Messages: 9201
Registered: July 2007
Location: Sydney, Australia
Senior Member
Matt,

Aha, the voice of reason!

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie

Do I worry about that quart in the front of the pan?
No, I don't, but if I ever have the pan loose, I may and the drain just for
my own convenience.

Matt


_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


Rob Mueller Sydney, Australia '75 Avion - AUS - The Blue Streak TZE365V100428 '75 Avion - USA - Double Trouble TZE365V100426
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176309 is a reply to message #176307 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 09:04 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ray Erspamer  is currently offline Ray Erspamer
Messages: 1305
Registered: May 2007
Senior Member
Voice of reason makes too much sense, we need to beat this dead horse for at
least another month ! LOL

Ray


Ray & Lisa
78 Royale "Great Lakes Eagle"
Center Kitchen TZE368V101144
Wauwatosa, Wisconsin 53226
Email: 78GMC-Royale@att.net
414-745-3188
Web Site: http://ray-lisa.page.tl/




________________________________
From: Rob Mueller <robmueller@iinet.net.au>
To: gmclist@temp.gmcnet.org
Sent: Wed, July 11, 2012 8:59:52 AM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil

Matt,

Aha, the voice of reason!

Regards,
Rob M.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Colie

Do I worry about that quart in the front of the pan?
No, I don't, but if I ever have the pan loose, I may and the drain just for
my own convenience.

Matt


_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176329 is a reply to message #176309 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 11:39 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Henderson  is currently offline Ken Henderson
Messages: 4165
Registered: March 2004
Location: Americus, GA
Senior Member
Personally, I think we should get every drop out, flush it, and change the
oil EVERY 1000 miles!

Ken "Just Gave the S-10 Its Annual Oil Change" H.

---------- Forwarded message ----------
Voice of reason makes too much sense, we need to beat this dead horse for at
least another month ! LOL

Ray
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist


Ken Henderson
Americus, GA
www.gmcwipersetc.com
Large Wiring Diagrams
76 X-Birchaven
76 X-Palm Beach
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176342 is a reply to message #176329 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 13:12 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Arthur Mansfield  is currently offline Arthur Mansfield
Messages: 219
Registered: April 2010
Senior Member
I had a 1966 Tornado and out 125K miles on it when I had to sell it. I
changed the oil about 3k. It never burnt oil or gave any trouble. I made
a of about 1200 miles running 100 + most of the way when it had 110K on it
and it never burnt any oil (Emergency ,,, wife's dad was given 24 hrs to
live and she would not fly. We made it). The pan did not have but one
drain plug. Car was geared for highway driving and not town. Yes! it is
always better to drain all the oil but if change the oil regularily it
would be a problem. I also flush the engine every once in a while. It
always amazed me how much junk comes out of the pan. I generally put 250k
on my later model vehicles without any issues with the engine.

On the RV because of the issue with the oil additives I have added molycoat
additive to the oil. The problem with that additive is can pull up oil
ports but it will reduce friction in the engine. I have used it in another
engine and it worked great. If you use the molycoat additive be careful it
stains and does not wash out.

Art & Doris
76 EL
Decatur AL
Presently in Oswego NY
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://temp.gmcnet.org/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/gmclist

Re: How To Change Your Oil [message #176373 is a reply to message #175798 ] Wed, 11 July 2012 20:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
JohnL455  is currently offline JohnL455
Messages: 1251
Registered: October 2006
Location: CHICAGO
Senior Member
Me.... I would not use engine flush in an engine where I can't drain it all out. Then again, I wouldn't use engine flush!


John Lebetski
Chicago, IL
77 Eleganza II
Source America First
Re: [GMCnet] How To Change Your Oil [message #176733 is a reply to message #176284 ] Sat, 14 July 2012 19:49 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
Bob de Kruyff  is currently offline Bob de Kruyff
Messages: 2344
Registered: January 2004
Location: Chandler, AZ
Senior Member
""Bob,

Then I guess the engineers at Cadillac that designed the 500 were all
"silly" when they put a drain in the front section of the pan! Wink

Regards,
Rob M.

""

Silly isn't the right word--idiots or compulsive behaviour may fit the description. During those years, Cadillac had by far the fewest engineering resources and capabilities.


Bob de Kruyff
78 Eleganza
Chandler, AZ
Previous Topic:Support the GMC community -- Win a FireFight system
Next Topic:Are we still trying to search all of craigslist?
Goto Forum:
  


Current Time: Wed Jun 19 11:38:59 CDT 2013

Total time taken to generate the page: 0.08434 seconds
.:: Contact :: Home ::.

Powered by: FUDforum 2.7.7RC2.
Copyright ©2001-2007 FUD Forum Bulletin Board Software