Home » Public Forums » GMCnet » Dometic fridge wont run on 12V (Ignition interlock)
| Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343101] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 12:48  |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I have been scratching my head, and posed this question last year at a rally. My Dometic RM3600 3-way fridge runs great on LP & 120V but nothing on 12V.
Have finally gotten around to learning more about this specific fridge. It was lower on the priority list than a few other things. And managed to track down a pdf of the diagnostic manual for these units. Seems there are 3 connections in the harness at the back. 2 are for the actual wiring to & from the battery. The 3rd is an ignition interlock. This is designed to keep the fridge from running on your battery unless the ignition is on and running. Keeps the fridge from draining your battery. The unit will not run on 12V without this circuit.
My interlock is an empty socket. So it appears I will have to run something to the ignition (I, meaning someone that knows what they're doing!) in order to use the fridge while driving without resorting to LP.
I'll post a picture when I am back on the computer. Just FYI for anyone else with a similar issue.
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343102 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 13:29  |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Deb,
3 way is not a very populer unit as the 12 volt drains the battery at a
high rate and not worh the wear ad tear on the battery. LPG is the best,
keep in mind that the new 2 stage LPG pressure regulator will cut down the
flow should the line developes a large release of gas.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 11:02 AM Deb McWade via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> I have been scratching my head, and posed this question last year at a
> rally. My Dometic RM3600 3-way fridge runs great on LP & 120V but nothing on
> 12V.
>
> Have finally gotten around to learning more about this specific fridge. It
> was lower on the priority list than a few other things. And managed to
> track down a pdf of the diagnostic manual for these units. Seems there are
> 3 connections in the harness at the back. 2 are for the actual wiring to &
> from the battery. The 3rd is an ignition interlock. This is designed to
> keep the fridge from running on your battery unless the ignition is on and
> running. Keeps the fridge from draining your battery. The unit will not
> run on 12V without this circuit.
>
> My interlock is an empty socket. So it appears I will have to run
> something to the ignition (I, meaning someone that knows what they're
> doing!) in
> order to use the fridge while driving without resorting to LP.
>
> I'll post a picture when I am back on the computer. Just FYI for anyone
> else with a similar issue.
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343105 is a reply to message #343103] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 15:53 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
From what they tell us at the RV training events, ALL rv are to be
outfitted with the two stage regulators as they can control flow to a very
low amount in case of major rupture in the line. Does not shut off
complexly but chocks it down to whee it is no stronger than the stove.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 12:06 PM Deb McWade via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Hi Jim. Thanks for the info. Seems weird that the fridge has the 12V
> connections in place, but not the ignition lock that allows it to work :) I
> did have a new 2-stage regulator installed last year when I had the
> T-connection put in for the BBQ. So if there is a rupture in the line
> somewhere
> (accident, flat tire, run over something), the regulator will sense it and
> cut the gas? I would be happy to run on LP while driving, as long as that
> regulator can shut down the flow.
>
> I wish I had known all of that last summer when everything was thawing and
> melting and being tossed during the 95 degree heat wave through the
> mid-west and Ontario. Thought I HAD 12V function. Threw out more stuff
> than I care to think about. Would have run the LP. But now I know. Didn't
> find out though till September in Oregon :(
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343111 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 20:03 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
If set up to run on 12V they would have run a 10 ga 12V wire to run rhe 12V heating element. How big is the 12V wire? Perhaps they just ran a smaller 12V to the controls and touchpad. That would get it to work on 120V and gas.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343115 is a reply to message #343111] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 22:15 |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Hey John. It looks like the fridge is set up fine re: the 12V wiring to the house battery. Just doesn't have the required connection to the ignition which will allow the 12V circuit to actually operate.
But I don't think I'm going to worry about wiring that in right now. Given all of the feedback I have had regarding driving while the fridge is on LP, I think we're OK for the time being. But I plan to get it done at some point this summer. I would rather run on 12V while driving, I think. Easier when it comes to gassing up, ferries, etc, etc. And really, safer overall.
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343118 is a reply to message #343115] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 22:50 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
If the fridge compartment is well vented, and the you do due diligence on
your maintenance on the propane system, you can use propane without undue
concern. All three systems produce heat, that is what boils the refrigerant
and makes the fridge work. Electricity is responsible for many fires in
Automotive applications. I don't know how propane and electricity compare
for fire hazard but those stats are out there. Keep your fridge compartment
clean and free of combustible stuff like rags, paper stuff, etc. If you are
really concerned, install an automatic extinguisher system. Best is AAAF
foam.
Jim Hupy
On Sat, May 4, 2019, 8:17 PM Deb McWade via Gmclist
wrote:
> Hey John. It looks like the fridge is set up fine re: the 12V wiring to
> the house battery. Just doesn't have the required connection to the
> ignition
> which will allow the 12V circuit to actually operate.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7218/medium/78D0F2D7-5E99-4F70-9DB8-CCDB99223901.jpeg
>
> But I don't think I'm going to worry about wiring that in right now.
> Given all of the feedback I have had regarding driving while the fridge is
> on
> LP, I think we're OK for the time being. But I plan to get it done at
> some point this summer. I would rather run on 12V while driving, I think.
> Easier when it comes to gassing up, ferries, etc, etc. And really, safer
> overall.
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343119 is a reply to message #343115] |
Sat, 04 May 2019 23:26 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
When the flame iis higher than 2 feet off the ground it will not cause
ignition at gas station or fu
el spill.
On Sat, May 4, 2019 at 8:17 spillPM Deb McWade via Gmclist etc<
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Hey John. It looks like the fridge is set up fine re: the 12V wiring to
> the house battery. Just doesn't have the required connection to the
> ignition
> which will allow the 12V circuit to actually operate.
>
>
> http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/data/7218/medium/78D0F2D7-5E99-4F70-9DB8-CCDB99223901.jpeg
>
> But I don't think I'm going to worry about wiring that in right now.
> Given all of the feedback I have had regarding driving while the fridge is
> on
> LP, I think we're OK for the time being. But I plan to get it done at
> some point this summer. I would rather run on 12V while driving, I think.
> Easier when it comes to gassing up, ferries, etc, etc. And really, safer
> overall.
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343120 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sun, 05 May 2019 01:37 |
Handyman
Messages: 229
Registered: April 2016
Location: The Netherlands
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Deb,
I would not be concerned using it as a two way.
For that little extra propane you use it isn't worth going through the trouble installing an extra thick wire.
Mostly those fridges, run great on propane, and better then running on 12 volts.
Bye, Daniel
Daniel Jacobs, NL-USA 1977 GMC Eleganza II, Rebuild 455 (2019) 3.55 FD. FiTech and (Modified) FCC, Electric Pump, insulated GasTanks, 100A Alternator, APC, McDash, Schräder Valves + extern Fills, Ceramic Film, TPMS, FlexSteel Seats
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343122 is a reply to message #343120] |
Sun, 05 May 2019 08:19 |
James Hupy
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I kinda looked a bit on the internet last night about statistics on causes
of fires in RV's and they broke down as electrical first, oil and fuel
next, and finally propane appliances and systems last. The worst offender
in the propane category was named specifically as Norcold refrigerators.
Several source articles went as far as recommending that if you have one,
you might consider getting rid of it, and replacing it with a competitive
brand, which wasn't named. They mentioned that there have been numerous
product recalls over many years on Norcold refrigerators and that the
company was less than cooperative when contacted with warranty and product
replacement.
Pretty strongly worded stuff from the NHTSB. I don't have a dog in
this hunt, and these are not my statistics, but it is rare for a Government
agency to name specific brands. Might be worth further checking.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or
On Sat, May 4, 2019, 11:44 PM Daniel Jacobs via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> Deb,
>
> I would not be concerned using it as a two way.
> For that little extra propane you use it isn't worth going through the
> trouble installing an extra thick wire.
> Mostly those fridges, run great on propane, and better then running on 12
> volts.
>
> Bye, Daniel
> --
> Daniel Jacobs, NL-USA 1977 GMC Eleganza II, 455 newer Tranny+3.55 FD.
> FiTech and FCC, new Hoses, Selector Valve and Electric Pump, insulated
> Tanks,
> APC, McDash, Dash AC to Enviro Safe. Schräder V+extern Fills, Ceramic Film
> TPMS FlexSteel Seats
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343123 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sun, 05 May 2019 08:33 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Is there a blue wire floating around somewhere? Hard to tell but looks like 12 ga wire. Check the specs on refer. If over 20 A draw on 12V you should upgrade to 10 ga wires and it's own breaker.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343125 is a reply to message #343123] |
Sun, 05 May 2019 10:40 |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
John, I haven't gone hunting for a blue wire yet. There is an access panel to the electrical that I haven't gone into - I need a step-stool to get to the top screws ;( . I am of 2 minds about what I shall find. My PO was pretty finicky about anything (especially electrical) in this coach, which has been great for me! If there was a blue wire, I would think he would have connected it. Unless he decided he didn't want to run it on 12V, in which case he would have left it "wire-nutted" off and tucked behind the access panel. This model of fridge operates on 120V, 12V & LP, in that preferential order. If he didn't want to run at all on 12V, then the only way to do that would be to leave it disconnected. A distinct possibility. I shall see when I pop that access panel later today. And I will check the gauge of the existing while I'm out there.
Jim, thanks for the info on the fire sources, and the Norcold warning. I have a Dometic so OK there. I did check though, and saw that Dometic also had some recall notices. My model is not included in those recalls. So far, the back of my unit looks pretty clean - no signs of any coolant leakage, excess heat anywhere.
And given that one of the leading causes of RV fires is electrical, perhaps the less I mess around with a working electrical system, the better! Just go around to check and tighten up all of the electrical connections.
If I find a blue wire hiding behind that access panel, I may or may not connect it. I'll have to think about it. I would first trace it back to make sure it is attached at the other end (and to what) and intact! If there isn't, I might just go with what I have now.
It does run SO-O-O nicely on propane. My only reason for concern about running with the propane on was the potential safety issue. Some folks are dead set against it. Others not so much. Seems like the major concern used to be pilot lights. And since these are DSI systems, there's no pilot. So many things to consider that I never have had to consider before.....
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343126 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sun, 05 May 2019 11:21 |
roy1
Messages: 2126
Registered: July 2004
Location: Minden nevada
Karma: 6
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Even if it did have the needed heavy wire I wouldn't run it on 12 volts. The 12 volt feature is only rated to about half the cooling capacity of 120 or propane they don't want you to draw the required amps to get full rated cooling. I run my refer on propane on the road. If you don't want to do it this way run it on 120 with an inverter but you should have a high enough rated alternator to do it this way.
Roy Keen
Minden,NV
76 X Glenbrook
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343132 is a reply to message #343126] |
Mon, 06 May 2019 07:15 |
tmsnyder
Messages: 151
Registered: January 2014
Karma: -9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I'd bet dimes to doughnuts that the interlock connection will draw less than an amp of 12V, it's just a signal from the ignition switch to indicate the engine is running. It's just a signal. I bet if you run a jumper from the 12V connection to the interlock it will run. There would be no need to run another big wire to supply the fridge, there's already one there on the +12V terminal.
I would make a jumper using a fuse holder with a 1A fuse in it, and connect the 12V supply right next to it, to the interlock connection. The fridge will probably start running on 12V.
If you put a switch on it you could decide when to run the fridge, for example when driving down the road with the engine running.
Just remember to shut it off when the engine's off or you'll have a dead battery quickly.
Todd Snyder, Buffalo NY
1976 Eleganza II
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343187 is a reply to message #343101] |
Wed, 08 May 2019 08:14 |
jhbridges
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
|
Senior Member |
|
|
I only run mine on 12V on the road. I chill it down the night before and load it. All the 12V has to do is hold it cold during travel and while I set up at the campsite. The door is never opened. The 12V holds just fine, I doubt it would freeze from the 12V setup. I tried it, it will work fine on propane, but I dry camp overnight twice a year, so the [point is pretty much moot.
--johnny
Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons.
Braselton, Ga.
I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343255 is a reply to message #343101] |
Sat, 11 May 2019 18:01 |
Sailor Bill
Messages: 4
Registered: July 2016
Location: Glens Falls ,Upstate New ...
Karma: 0
|
Junior Member |
|
|
I believe there is sone confusion here. On some Dometic units the ignition lock terminal had nothing to do with 12 volt operation. Rather that terminal is fastened to engine ignition on circuit and when the ignition is turned off the LP gas is turned off for 15 minutes. The concept is you stopped for fuel so the flame is shut off.
There are some Dometic units with an alternator signal terminal, which the one that also operates the dash warning light. In that system the 12 volt element is only switched on when the engine is running.
But the simple fact is in most units the 110 element uses about 300 watts whereas the 12 volt is less than 100 (which is still an 8 amp draw) and it simply can at best maintain an a,ready cooled down and full unit.
1978 26' Royale Rear Dinette 403
80mm Front Caliper Branson Rear Disk’s and PB
Alde heating system
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343267 is a reply to message #343255] |
Sun, 12 May 2019 10:21 |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Yep, there are many configurations of RV fridges. This one (I have got the owners and the diagnostic manuals for this specific fridge) operates preferentially first on 120V, then 12V if 120V is not available & then on LP (if 12V not available). So in order to allow the fridge to run on LP, this ignition lock (if wired in) will prevent the fridge from operating on 12V if the ignition is off - then you run on LP (or 120V if prefer) when you are parked at your site. The fridge circuitry also has a 25 minute delay before allowing a restart on LP (prevents the sparking) so you can stop to gas up, and start up and continue on 12V without the silly thing madly sparking it's little heart out (at the gas pumps) trying to light the LP (which isn't on). But without it, I can't run on 12V at all, because it keeps the 12V circuit open.
I would never consider using 12V at any time other than while I was driving. I know it won't run enough juice to get things cold or freeze something that isn't already frozen. All I want to do is be able to keep things from melting in the freezer and rotting in the fridge when I'm driving for 6 hours. Which unfortunately I was unable to do last June & July  .
I realize that most folks here have run on LP while on the road forever, and have never had a problem. But then again I have never needed my seatbelt. But I wear it every time I get in the car. I figure If I can run on 12V while I'm driving, "that's my 'druthers".
However I was behind the access panel hoping to find the "blue wire" and there isn't one. Those wire colour notes on the back of fridge must have been from the installation of this fridge in a previous life-time. I do think I will run that wire. It shouldn't be too difficult - It's just a single length of 10 ga wire and I will run it through a protective conduit. The schematics showing where in the ignition circuit to wire it in are in the diagnostic manual.
I originally started this thread just as an FYI for anyone, like me, who had a 3-way fridge, but couldn't figure out why everything got warm when "operating" on 12V while they were on the road. This is one possibility. Could just be that someone decided not to bother wiring in the ignition lock 'cause they weren't going to use it anyway 
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
| Re: Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343269 is a reply to message #343132] |
Sun, 12 May 2019 10:29 |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
tmsnyder wrote on Mon, 06 May 2019 05:15I'd bet dimes to doughnuts that the interlock connection will draw less than an amp of 12V, it's just a signal from the ignition switch to indicate the engine is running. It's just a signal. I bet if you run a jumper from the 12V connection to the interlock it will run. There would be no need to run another big wire to supply the fridge, there's already one there on the +12V terminal.
I would make a jumper using a fuse holder with a 1A fuse in it, and connect the 12V supply right next to it, to the interlock connection. The fridge will probably start running on 12V.
If you put a switch on it you could decide when to run the fridge, for example when driving down the road with the engine running.
Just remember to shut it off when the engine's off or you'll have a dead battery quickly.
You read my mind! But it was just a vague question/possibility rolling around in my brain pan. You have given me a game plan. I will give that a try and let you know!
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343278 is a reply to message #343269] |
Sun, 12 May 2019 13:18 |
jimk
Messages: 6734
Registered: July 2006
Location: Belmont, CA
Karma: 9
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Depending on the year they were made. Controlles are different.
Get the model # and call Mfg for instruction sheet.
On Sun, May 12, 2019 at 8:30 AM Deb McWade via Gmclist <
gmclist@list.gmcnet.org> wrote:
> tmsnyder wrote on Mon, 06 May 2019 05:15
>> I'd bet dimes to doughnuts that the interlock connection will draw less
> than an amp of 12V, it's just a signal from the ignition switch to
>> indicate the engine is running. It's just a signal. I bet if you run
> a jumper from the 12V connection to the interlock it will run. There would
>> be no need to run another big wire to supply the fridge, there's already
> one there on the +12V terminal.
>>
>> I would make a jumper using a fuse holder with a 1A fuse in it, and
> connect the 12V supply right next to it, to the interlock connection. The
>> fridge will probably start running on 12V.
>>
>> If you put a switch on it you could decide when to run the fridge, for
> example when driving down the road with the engine running.
>>
>> Just remember to shut it off when the engine's off or you'll have a dead
> battery quickly.
>
>
> You read my mind! But it was just a vague question/possibility rolling
> around in my brain pan. You have given me a game plan. I will give that a
> try and let you know!
> --
> Deb McWade
> Logan Lake, BC, CAN
> "Li'l Sister"
> '77 Kingsley, 403, EBL EFI;
> TZE167V101404
> It's Bigger on the Inside!
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
--
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC, Newark,CA
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
http://www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
_______________________________________________
GMCnet mailing list
Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
Jim Kanomata
Applied/GMC
jimk@appliedairfilters.com
www.appliedgmc.com
1-800-752-7502
|
|
|
|
| Re: [GMCnet] Dometic fridge wont run on 12V [message #343284 is a reply to message #343278] |
Sun, 12 May 2019 15:51 |
Deb
Messages: 349
Registered: October 2016
Location: Logan Lake, BC
Karma: 2
|
Senior Member |
|
|
Thanks Jim. I have the manuals, and have been going over the service/diagnostic manual for this series/model fridge and I can't find what the amperage draw of that ignition lock would be. I'm going to see if I can get that directly from Dometic. I also have to get into the battery bay and make sure that the appropriate 30A fuse was installed. Otherwise, this discussion takes another turn.
Deb McWade
Logan Lake, BC, CAN
GMC Alumnus
It's Bigger on the Inside!
|
|
|
|
Goto Forum:
Current Time: Sat May 25 16:53:43 CDT 2024
Total time taken to generate the page: 2.96675 seconds
|
GMCforum
Search
Help
Register
Login
Home
