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Engine Removal [message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 14:29 Go to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
Senior Member

Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home from Las Vegas on Friday. My wife finagled a tow home (167 miles) out of the insurance company and the coach is now safely ensconced in my driveway at home.

Next step is to remove the engine and transmission. I have read the procedure in the service manual, done a search on this site, and emailed friends who have done this, so I'm not completely in the dark, and have a basic idea of how to get this done, but I was wondering if any of you can offer any sage advice to make things go as smoothly as possible.

Thanks,


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328451 is a reply to message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 14:45 Go to previous messageGo to next message
<tawptool is currently offline  <tawptool   United States
Messages: 16
Registered: September 2015
Karma: -1
Junior Member
Aw Geez Carl! That's a heck of a late Birthday present! Sorry to hear this.

While I can't offer any advice, I will be watching from the sidelines and
providing moral support.

Guy Lopes
76 (ish) 23' RB Birchaven
Sacramento, CA


-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Carl
Stouffer
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2018 12:29 PM
To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
Subject: [GMCnet] Engine Removal

Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home from
Las Vegas on Friday.



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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328453 is a reply to message #328451] Sun, 21 January 2018 14:53 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Depending upon the condition of your front suspension wear parts it might
make sense to pull the front frame clip with the engine/trans/final drive
installed. If your suspension and brakes are all good and your only issues
are the motor and trans then it might make more sense to pull the
engine/trans only. Pulling the clip is pretty straight forward and allows
better access for assembing the motor to the trans as well as engine
accessories back onto the motor. If you want more on pulling the module
drop me a line. I’ve done it once.

Sully
77 eleganza 2
Bellevue

On Sun, Jan 21, 2018 at 12:45 PM wrote:

> Aw Geez Carl! That's a heck of a late Birthday present! Sorry to hear this.
>
> While I can't offer any advice, I will be watching from the sidelines and
> providing moral support.
>
> Guy Lopes
> 76 (ish) 23' RB Birchaven
> Sacramento, CA
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gmclist [mailto:gmclist-bounces@list.gmcnet.org] On Behalf Of Carl
> Stouffer
> Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2018 12:29 PM
> To: gmclist@list.gmcnet.org
> Subject: [GMCnet] Engine Removal
>
> Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home from
> Las Vegas on Friday.
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328457 is a reply to message #328453] Sun, 21 January 2018 15:41 Go to previous messageGo to next message
tphipps is currently offline  tphipps   United States
Messages: 3005
Registered: August 2004
Location: Spanish Fort, AL
Karma: 9
Senior Member
Three basic methods; Remove front clip, remove out the top of engine hatch, and drop out the bottom. Is the coach on a good firm surface?
Do you have a few extra hands? Out the top of hatch requires a trolley to move the assembly. Out the bottom, without a pit requires lifting the front of the coach at least 32 inches. I have never done a front clip, but lots of auxiliary things to move out before you can remove front clip assembly.
A pit really makes it easier, but most of us do not have access to one. A lift will also substitute for a pit.
If you elect to take it out the top, take your front seats out first. Gives you much more room to maneuver. Put something down to protect your interior.
I did not notice if you have a 23 or 26. 23 engine can come out the large window on the passenger side, using a cherry picker. Removing the window is not difficult, just an extra step.
Good luck, it's just heavy and awkward.
Tom, who has done two through the top.


2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552 KA4CSG
Re: Engine Removal [message #328460 is a reply to message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 16:00 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Jim Wagner is currently offline  Jim Wagner   United States
Messages: 339
Registered: February 2004
Location: Brook Park, Oh
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Carl, Here are some pictures of the front clip removal.
Jim Wagner
Brook Park, oh
76 GMC500
71 Vega355
69 Vette383

http://www.gmcmhphotos.com/photos/g3080-engine-removal-26amp-3b-caddy-500-swap.html
Re: Engine Removal [message #328461 is a reply to message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 16:33 Go to previous messageGo to next message
lqqkatjon is currently offline  lqqkatjon   United States
Messages: 2324
Registered: October 2010
Location: St. Cloud, MN
Karma: 5
Senior Member
Most people I have talked to prefer to go out the top. The one I helped remove was fairly easy to bring out the top.

I would pull out your front seats, dinette and couch if you can. Put down some sort if floor protector so you keep inside clean as you make many trips in and out.

You know David on facebook- call him as he is practiced lately. Also Tim Anderson has a couple engine R&R's this year.


Tranny has to drop down. After engine was out, tranny/final drive dropped out really easy.



Jon Roche 75 palm beach EBL EFI, manny headers, Micro Level, rebuilt most of coach now. St. Cloud, MN http://lqqkatjon.blogspot.com/
Re: Engine Removal [message #328463 is a reply to message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 17:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Scott Nutter is currently offline  Scott Nutter   United States
Messages: 781
Registered: January 2015
Location: Houston/San Diego
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Carl, sorry about the engine.
I had my engine replaced last year by Frank Borrmann up in Canada.
He went from the bottom. He didn't use a lift on it, but he did have to raise the entire coach 30". He did caution me that sometimes the front windows might crack if not raised carefully.
His preference was out the bottom.
Good luck, Scott


Scott Nutter 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, Dave Lenzi super duty mid axle disc brakes, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera installed MSD Atomic EFI Houston, Texas
Re: Engine Removal [message #328470 is a reply to message #328463] Sun, 21 January 2018 18:59 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
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Senior Member
About a month and a half ago I went down to Blaine's mostly to watch and maybe help Frank Borrman and Dick Paterson replace an engine in a 1978 GMC. They started at 7AM and when I got there at noon the old engine was out the bottom and the new engine was already in place. I did not learn much and I did not help much because there was nothing I could contribute. I planned on staying 2 days but by the evening there wasn't much left to do other than to eat dinner. So I went back home.

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328472 is a reply to message #328457] Sun, 21 January 2018 19:32 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Rollerg is currently offline  Rollerg   United States
Messages: 111
Registered: November 2014
Location: Marysville, MI
Karma: 0
Senior Member
Carl,
I have an engine gantry assembly, but getting it to you would be an issue.

Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
1977 GMC Eleganza ll
GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
GMCShades@gmail.com
www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/

> On Jan 21, 2018, at 1:41 PM, Thomas Phipps wrote:
>
> Three basic methods; Remove front clip, remove out the top of engine hatch, and drop out the bottom. Is the coach on a good firm surface?
> Do you have a few extra hands? Out the top of hatch requires a trolley to move the assembly. Out the bottom, without a pit requires lifting the front
> of the coach at least 32 inches. I have never done a front clip, but lots of auxiliary things to move out before you can remove front clip assembly.
> A pit really makes it easier, but most of us do not have access to one. A lift will also substitute for a pit.
> If you elect to take it out the top, take your front seats out first. Gives you much more room to maneuver. Put something down to protect your
> interior.
> I did not notice if you have a 23 or 26. 23 engine can come out the large window on the passenger side, using a cherry picker. Removing the window is
> not difficult, just an extra step.
> Good luck, it's just heavy and awkward.
> Tom, who has done two through the top.
> --
> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
> KA4CSG
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org

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Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328473 is a reply to message #328472] Sun, 21 January 2018 20:14 Go to previous messageGo to next message
sgltrac is currently offline  sgltrac   United States
Messages: 2797
Registered: April 2011
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Hupy has one in Salem. Not much better.

Sully

On Sun, Jan 21, 2018 at 5:32 PM Gary wrote:

> Carl,
> I have an engine gantry assembly, but getting it to you would be an issue.
>
> Gary Coaster / Reno, NV
> 1977 GMC Eleganza ll
> GMC RV Day Night Shade Sales
> GMCShades@gmail.com
> www.GMCMotorhomemarketplace.com/GMC_Shades/
>
>> On Jan 21, 2018, at 1:41 PM, Thomas Phipps wrote:
>>
>> Three basic methods; Remove front clip, remove out the top of engine
> hatch, and drop out the bottom. Is the coach on a good firm surface?
>> Do you have a few extra hands? Out the top of hatch requires a trolley
> to move the assembly. Out the bottom, without a pit requires lifting the
> front
>> of the coach at least 32 inches. I have never done a front clip, but
> lots of auxiliary things to move out before you can remove front clip
> assembly.
>> A pit really makes it easier, but most of us do not have access to one.
> A lift will also substitute for a pit.
>> If you elect to take it out the top, take your front seats out first.
> Gives you much more room to maneuver. Put something down to protect your
>> interior.
>> I did not notice if you have a 23 or 26. 23 engine can come out the
> large window on the passenger side, using a cherry picker. Removing the
> window is
>> not difficult, just an extra step.
>> Good luck, it's just heavy and awkward.
>> Tom, who has done two through the top.
>> --
>> 2012 Phoenix Cruiser model 2552
>> KA4CSG
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> GMCnet mailing list
>> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
>> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Sully 77 Royale basket case. Future motorhome land speed record holder(bucket list) Seattle, Wa.
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328474 is a reply to message #328473] Sun, 21 January 2018 20:31 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Ken Burton is currently offline  Ken Burton   United States
Messages: 10030
Registered: January 2004
Location: Hebron, Indiana
Karma: 10
Senior Member
Fed-Ex Ground

Ken Burton - N9KB
76 Palm Beach
Hebron, Indiana
Re: Engine Removal [message #328476 is a reply to message #328449] Sun, 21 January 2018 20:42 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry is currently offline  Larry   United States
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
Senior Member
I just finished removing/Installing my 5th...Yes the 5th...engine in my GMC. Long story not worth repeating, or should I say, in no mood at the moment to repeat. Any way, Here are a few tips..not in any order.

In all cases, I took it out the bottom. You need 30-32" floor to front crossmember when using a 2" high creeper to slide engine out.

Disconnect all 12v power...Including the house battery.

Get one of those small impact drivers and a socket adaptor and use it to spin off all of the nuts and bolts. Really shortens the disassembly time. Can also be used to reassemble but must be careful not to over torque. I found it really handy to reassemble the 6 special bolts on the drive axles.

As you take things apart, bag all of the nuts, bolts, brackets etc for each accessory in baggies and label the bag. Take the alternator out...bag the parts and put with the alternator. Take the Carb off, bag the bolts and other attached stuff and put with carb....etc...etc. This may take a little extra time on disassembly, but saves mega time when reassembling. Be annal about this!!

After unbolting the drive axles, take a coat hanger wire and hang as far up and forward as possible.

On reassembly, when lifting the trans up to match with the back of the engine block, the slower you go, the faster you will go. Do it in small increments. Move it a little, and check for alignment...move a little and check for parallel to block, move a little more to get one long bolt started. Many little moves....A little at a time and suddenly it just "clunk" it's in. Patience is the name of the game here.

The trans mounts have three bolts. Two to bolt to the trans adaptor plate and one bolt to the rear frame member. It is much easier to mount it to the adaptor plate with the two bolts, and only have to worry about aligning one bolt on the frame, than bolting to the frame first and trying to align two bolts.

For more clearance dropping the trans, unbolt the front motor mount (making sure it is securely hung from a frame and block and tackle) and slide the motor forward a couple inches. Trans will drop a lot easier.

On disassembly, take the water pump, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds off before dropping the engine. Gives you a lot more maneuver room. This is an easy thing if you are using a portable impact driver.

Use your smart phone and take pictures of brackets and belts holding the alternator, AC compressor, power steering, before you take these off. Helps on reassembly.

Before removing the distributor, put engine at TDC compression stroke, pull the distributor cap off and take a picture of where the rotor and vacuum advance are pointed. Also, mark each plug wire with the number of the cylinder it came from. If nothing else just use masking tape and magic marker.

If you have a one piece radiator shroud, go to the photo site where it shows shroud modification, and cut that thing in half while it is out. Make brackets to bolt it back together. Makes servicing water pump, and other stuff at a later date MUCH easier.

I dropped my engine on a wood creeper that has a hole drilled in to accept the drain plug of the oil pan. Blocked it up with 6 X 6's and 2 X 4's, sheet rock screwing them to the creeper, and hooked on it with a chain and pulled out SLOWLY with my lawn tractor. Had a friend assist with this.

Screwed a 12" X 16" piece of 5/8" plywood to the lift plate on a low lift, long reach floor jack. Lowered the trans out of the coach with the jack and pulled it out from under by hand.

Either drain most of oil out of the FD, or find something that fits in the right hand axle drive seal to keep it from spilling FD fluid all over everything when you pull the axle out. I used a large socket that snug fit in the seal with a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adaptor in the socket drive.

Double check and recheck each hose connection before pouring in the antifreeze.

NO matter who does the engine, put it on an engine stand and run the oil pump BEFORE you put the engine in. Now is the time to check all oil gallery plugs are in and tight and you have good oil pressure. You don't want to find out the plug on the back of the block was missed after the engine is in.

Replace all questionable belts and hoses NOW.

Hope this helps



Larry Smile
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328481 is a reply to message #328476] Mon, 22 January 2018 00:06 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Sandra Price is currently offline  Sandra Price   United States
Messages: 709
Registered: May 2006
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Larry, your instructions are so thorough I believe I could change out an
engine and transmission! I know the guys who will actually do it
appreciate your help.

See y'all in Tucson.

Sandra

On Jan 21, 2018 8:43 PM, "Larry" wrote:

> I just finished removing/Installing my 5th...Yes the 5th...engine in my
> GMC. Long story not worth repeating, or should I say, in no mood at the
> moment to repeat. Any way, Here are a few tips..not in any order.
>
> In all cases, I took it out the bottom. You need 30-32" floor to front
> crossmember when using a 2" high creeper to slide engine out.
>
> Disconnect all 12v power...Including the house battery.
>
> Get one of those small impact drivers and a socket adaptor and use it to
> spin off all of the nuts and bolts. Really shortens the disassembly time.
> Can also be used to reassemble but must be careful not to over torque. I
> found it really handy to reassemble the 6 special bolts on the drive axles.
>
> As you take things apart, bag all of the nuts, bolts, brackets etc for
> each accessory in baggies and label the bag. Take the alternator out...bag
> the
> parts and put with the alternator. Take the Carb off, bag the bolts and
> other attached stuff and put with carb....etc...etc. This may take a little
> extra time on disassembly, but saves mega time when reassembling. Be
> annal about this!!
>
> After unbolting the drive axles, take a coat hanger wire and hang as far
> up and forward as possible.
>
> On reassembly, when lifting the trans up to match with the back of the
> engine block, the slower you go, the faster you will go. Do it in small
> increments. Move it a little, and check for alignment...move a little and
> check for parallel to block, move a little more to get one long bolt
> started. Many little moves....A little at a time and suddenly it just
> "clunk" it's in. Patience is the name of the game here.
>
> The trans mounts have three bolts. Two to bolt to the trans adaptor plate
> and one bolt to the rear frame member. It is much easier to mount it to the
> adaptor plate with the two bolts, and only have to worry about aligning
> one bolt on the frame, than bolting to the frame first and trying to align
> two
> bolts.
>
> For more clearance dropping the trans, unbolt the front motor mount
> (making sure it is securely hung from a frame and block and tackle) and
> slide the
> motor forward a couple inches. Trans will drop a lot easier.
>
> On disassembly, take the water pump, flywheel, and exhaust manifolds off
> before dropping the engine. Gives you a lot more maneuver room. This is an
> easy thing if you are using a portable impact driver.
>
> Use your smart phone and take pictures of brackets and belts holding the
> alternator, AC compressor, power steering, before you take these off. Helps
> on reassembly.
>
> Before removing the distributor, put engine at TDC compression stroke,
> pull the distributor cap off and take a picture of where the rotor and
> vacuum
> advance are pointed. Also, mark each plug wire with the number of the
> cylinder it came from. If nothing else just use masking tape and magic
> marker.
>
> If you have a one piece radiator shroud, go to the photo site where it
> shows shroud modification, and cut that thing in half while it is out. Make
> brackets to bolt it back together. Makes servicing water pump, and other
> stuff at a later date MUCH easier.
>
> I dropped my engine on a wood creeper that has a hole drilled in to accept
> the drain plug of the oil pan. Blocked it up with 6 X 6's and 2 X 4's,
> sheet rock screwing them to the creeper, and hooked on it with a chain and
> pulled out SLOWLY with my lawn tractor. Had a friend assist with this.
>
> Screwed a 12" X 16" piece of 5/8" plywood to the lift plate on a low lift,
> long reach floor jack. Lowered the trans out of the coach with the jack
> and pulled it out from under by hand.
>
> Either drain most of oil out of the FD, or find something that fits in the
> right hand axle drive seal to keep it from spilling FD fluid all over
> everything when you pull the axle out. I used a large socket that snug
> fit in the seal with a 1/2" to 3/4" drive adaptor in the socket drive.
>
> Double check and recheck each hose connection before pouring in the
> antifreeze.
>
> NO matter who does the engine, put it on an engine stand and run the oil
> pump BEFORE you put the engine in. Now is the time to check all oil gallery
> plugs are in and tight and you have good oil pressure. You don't want to
> find out the plug on the back of the block was missed after the engine is
> in.
>
> Replace all questionable belts and hoses NOW.
>
> Hope this helps
>
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
> _______________________________________________
> GMCnet mailing list
> Unsubscribe or Change List Options:
> http://list.gmcnet.org/mailman/listinfo/gmclist_list.gmcnet.org
>
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Re: Engine Removal [message #328482 is a reply to message #328449] Mon, 22 January 2018 00:21 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Adrien G. is currently offline  Adrien G.   United States
Messages: 474
Registered: May 2008
Location: Burns Flat, OK 73624
Karma: 1
Senior Member
Carl,

Sorry to read about your PITA, but unfortunately shit does happen and usually at the most inopportune time.
My contribution to what other have said is to put the back of the coach on ramps. The more level the coach is at the height
needed, the easier to disconnect and reconnect engine and trans. A high pitch make it a bear to assemble parts.

FWIW.



Carl S. wrote on Sun, 21 January 2018 12:29
Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home from Las Vegas on Friday. My wife finagled a tow home (167 miles) out of the insurance company and the coach is now safely ensconced in my driveway at home.

Next step is to remove the engine and transmission. I have read the procedure in the service manual, done a search on this site, and emailed friends who have done this, so I'm not completely in the dark, and have a basic idea of how to get this done, but I was wondering if any of you can offer any sage advice to make things go as smoothly as possible.

Thanks,



Adrien & Jenny Genesoto 75 Glenbrook (26-3) Mods LS3.70 FD / Reaction Sys / 80mm Front&Intermidiate / Hydroboost / 16" Tires / Frame Rebuild / Interior Rebuild Yuba City,Ca. Text 530-nine-3-three-3-nine-nine-6
Re: Engine Removal [message #328494 is a reply to message #328449] Mon, 22 January 2018 10:18 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Scott Nutter is currently offline  Scott Nutter   United States
Messages: 781
Registered: January 2015
Location: Houston/San Diego
Karma: 4
Senior Member
Larry,
What's the chances of you buying my neighbors house and moving to Texas?
Just think of all the fun times We could have working on my GMC!!
Scott.


Scott Nutter 1978 Royale Center Kitchen, Patterson 455, switch pitch tranny, 3.21 final drive, Quad bags, Dave Lenzi super duty mid axle disc brakes, tankless water heater, everything Lenzi. Alex Ferrera installed MSD Atomic EFI Houston, Texas
Re: Engine Removal [message #328499 is a reply to message #328476] Mon, 22 January 2018 11:08 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Carl S. is currently offline  Carl S.   United States
Messages: 4186
Registered: January 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ.
Karma: 13
Senior Member

Thanks for all the tips and advice. Since my front suspension/steering/brakes are all in good shape, I will not be going through all the extra steps to remove the front sub-frame, although I can see the advantages of doing it that way.

My plan, at this point, is to remove the engine/transmission/final drive as a unit. Jim Decheine has done it this way as has (I believe) Ken Henderson. Since my problem started with the transmission losing third gear, I need to do the tranny as well. The drivetrain has 105,000 miles on it and was going to be due for an overhaul soon anyway.

Larry, I can't imagine having to do this five times! My wife suggested that taking advice from you on this might be akin to taking marital advice from a guy who has been married five times Rolling Eyes Laughing . Your tips are good, and I plan to take lots of pictures as I go along and will definitely bag up all the components. I have been into the front of the engine, replacing the timing chain early on, and the top, replacing the intake manifold, so I DO have SOME experience with engine accessories and vacuum hoses etc. Thanks

I do have a lifting frame that I acquired from Steve Ferguson some time back but will need a couple of come-alongs and/or a chain hoist to maneuver the engine out of the hole. I'll get it done!


Carl Stouffer '75 ex Palm Beach Tucson, AZ. Chuck Aulgur Reaction Arm Disc Brakes, Quadrabags, 3.70 LSD final drive, Lenzi knuckles/hubs, Dodge Truck 16" X 8" front wheels, Rear American Eagles, Solar battery charging. GMCSJ and GMCMI member
Re: Engine Removal [message #328501 is a reply to message #328494] Mon, 22 January 2018 12:35 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry is currently offline  Larry   United States
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
Senior Member
Scott Nutter wrote on Mon, 22 January 2018 10:18
Larry,
What's the chances of you buying my neighbors house and moving to Texas?
Just think of all the fun times We could have working on my GMC!!
Scott.

Scott,
I'm looking out my front window right now and cannot see more than 100ft or so because of all of the snow fall. We are in the mist of a full fledged snow storm, so moving to Texas right now is sounding pretty good.


Larry Smile
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Re: Engine Removal [message #328502 is a reply to message #328482] Mon, 22 January 2018 12:40 Go to previous messageGo to next message
Larry is currently offline  Larry   United States
Messages: 2875
Registered: January 2004
Location: Menomonie, WI
Karma: 10
Senior Member
Adrien G. wrote on Mon, 22 January 2018 00:21
Carl,

Sorry to read about your PITA, but unfortunately shit does happen and usually at the most inopportune time.
My contribution to what other have said is to put the back of the coach on ramps. The more level the coach is at the height
needed, the easier to disconnect and reconnect engine and trans. A high pitch make it a bear to assemble parts.

FWIW.



Carl S. wrote on Sun, 21 January 2018 12:29
Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home from Las Vegas on Friday. My wife finagled a tow home (167 miles) out of the insurance company and the coach is now safely ensconced in my driveway at home.

Next step is to remove the engine and transmission. I have read the procedure in the service manual, done a search on this site, and emailed friends who have done this, so I'm not completely in the dark, and have a basic idea of how to get this done, but I was wondering if any of you can offer any sage advice to make things go as smoothly as possible.

Thanks,


Scott,
Adrien's advice of putting it up on ramps is really a good one. If you are taking it out the bottom, it gives you a lot more flexibility in terms of moving around. All but one of the swaps I've done have been with the coach on a set of ramps. JWID


Larry Smile
78 Royale w/500 Caddy
Menomonie, WI.
Re: [GMCnet] Engine Removal [message #328503 is a reply to message #328502] Mon, 22 January 2018 12:56 Go to previous messageGo to next message
James Hupy is currently offline  James Hupy   United States
Messages: 6806
Registered: May 2010
Karma: -62
Senior Member
Both the engine and transmission can be removed out the top with a gantry
type hoist. You have to be careful with interiors. Jerry Work sewed slip
covers for his interior on the Clasco coach when I did his engine. Very
good. I double bag engines and have block off plates for the oil filter
base as well as the cooling system ports. I use heater hose block offs on
the intake manifold. Unnecessary steps if the engine comes out the bottom.
It all depends upon shop layout. I have limited space in front of the
coach, but quite a bit of room to the sides. So, the gantry works well for
my shop.
On a 23 foot, you can reach in through the door with a cherry
picker, and snatch the engine through the door.
Jim Hupy
Salem, Or

On Jan 22, 2018 10:41 AM, "Larry" wrote:

> Adrien G. wrote on Mon, 22 January 2018 00:21
>> Carl,
>>
>> Sorry to read about your PITA, but unfortunately shit does happen and
> usually at the most inopportune time.
>> My contribution to what other have said is to put the back of the coach
> on ramps. The more level the coach is at the height
>> needed, the easier to disconnect and reconnect engine and trans. A high
> pitch make it a bear to assemble parts.
>>
>> FWIW.
>>
>>
>>
>> Carl S. wrote on Sun, 21 January 2018 12:29
>>> Okay, my engine and transmission decided to crap out on the way home
> from Las Vegas on Friday. My wife finagled a tow home (167 miles) out of
>>> the insurance company and the coach is now safely ensconced in my
> driveway at home.
>>>
>>> Next step is to remove the engine and transmission. I have read the
> procedure in the service manual, done a search on this site, and emailed
>>> friends who have done this, so I'm not completely in the dark, and
> have a basic idea of how to get this done, but I was wondering if any of you
>>> can offer any sage advice to make things go as smoothly as possible.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>
> Scott,
> Adrien's advice of putting it up on ramps is really a good one. If you are
> taking it out the bottom, it gives you a lot more flexibility in terms of
> moving around. All but one of the swaps I've done have been with the coach
> on a set of ramps. JWID
>
> --
> Larry
> 78 Royale w/500 Caddy
> Menomonie, WI.
>
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Re: Engine Removal [message #328507 is a reply to message #328449] Mon, 22 January 2018 15:47 Go to previous messageGo to previous message
jhbridges is currently offline  jhbridges   United States
Messages: 8412
Registered: May 2011
Location: Braselton ga
Karma: -74
Senior Member
Can you get the engine out the top without removing the trans/final drive?

johnny


Foolish Carriage, 76 26' Eleganza(?) with beaucoup mods and add - ons. Braselton, Ga. I forgive them all, save those who hurt the dogs. They must answer to me in hell
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