| Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #319612] |
Mon, 26 June 2017 12:17  |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk by installing fresh.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #319618 is a reply to message #319612] |
Mon, 26 June 2017 14:24  |
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Matt Colie
Messages: 8547
Registered: March 2007
Location: S.E. Michigan
Karma: 7
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JohnL455 wrote on Mon, 26 June 2017 13:17What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk by installing fresh.
John,
I would shy away from Tygon, it pinches off too easily.**
I don't have any experience with Stens True Blue.
**I did all of mine with Gates Barricade. After I finally got around to redoing the fuel line for the APU, everything looked and worked great...
Until I slid the PowerDrawer in, then 30~45 seconds it would stumble and quit. I could not restart it from inside, but from outside, it would take some cranking and then run just fine. I would like to have you believe that I found that the extra few inches I added to the fuel line made it kink when the draw was pushed in right away.
Matt
Matt & Mary Colie - Chaumière -'73 Glacier 23 - Members GMCMI, GMCGL, GMCES
Electronically Controlled Quiet Engine Cooling Fan with OE Rear Drum Brakes with Applied Control Arms
SE Michigan - Near DTW - Twixt A2 and Detroit
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #319624 is a reply to message #319612] |
Mon, 26 June 2017 16:34 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Ok I'll see if I can find a screen door tension spring to mimic what came on them originally to dress the hose. That's the only place a Tygon type hose was found so I thought they put it there so it would not pinch but I guess the opposite is the case. I remebered that from the Onan discussion at Chippewa Falls.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #319627 is a reply to message #319624] |
Mon, 26 June 2017 16:51 |
Dennis S
Messages: 3046
Registered: November 2005
Karma: 2
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JohnL455 wrote on Mon, 26 June 2017 16:34Ok I'll see if I can find a screen door tension spring to mimic what came on them originally to dress the hose. That's the only place a Tygon type hose was found so I thought they put it there so it would not pinch but I guess the opposite is the case. I remebered that from the Onan discussion at Chippewa Falls.
What about Tyron with the electrical plastic wire cover over it to prevent kinking?
Dennis
Dennis S
73 Painted Desert 230
Memphis TN Metro
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329319 is a reply to message #319612] |
Tue, 20 February 2018 06:24 |
bobby5832708
Messages: 237
Registered: November 2006
Location: Winter Springs FL
Karma: 3
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Tom,
For about the last 10 years my Onan 6K has had a piece of average everyday Gates 1/4" fuel line going from the case fitting to the fuel pump. Actually every fuel line in the Onan from the gas tank to the fuel pump is average everyday Gates 1/4" fuel line. Going from memory, which isn't so good, I think the fuel pump to carb fuel line is either 3/16 or 1/4 Gates fuel line (I remember changing the inlet fitting on the carb to a hose barb so I could use standard sized line, i just don't remember what size I used). Over that 10 years I replaced the lines once again a couple of years ago just because they were getting old. Don't want to risk a fire because of a couple of dollars worth of fuel hose.
I will only use Gates fuel hose. I've always had good luck with their products.
Works fine for me. YMMV. JWID. All the other usual disclaimers.
Bob Heller
2017 Winnebago 29VE
Winter Springs FL
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329321 is a reply to message #329316] |
Tue, 20 February 2018 08:01 |
bdub
Messages: 1578
Registered: February 2004
Location: Central Texas
Karma: 5
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It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....
Good luck
bdub
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist Behalf Of Tom Lins
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump
JohnL455 wrote on Mon, 26 June 2017 13:17
> What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I
go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am
> getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled
out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk
> by installing fresh.
Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having
this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan (the
first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping
up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and tried
to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I
stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once
again crank but no run.
Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?
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bdub
'76 Palm Beach/Central Texas
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329340 is a reply to message #319612] |
Tue, 20 February 2018 18:43 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Bdub mine was fuel related. I had pulled out the rats nest of PO SO type cable for the remote and used Westmarine control cable and made everything surgically clean, loomed and shrunk.where it spliced to the existing loom. My fuel line had "learned" a kink near the barb. But would straighten when drawer out to where not easily visible.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329341 is a reply to message #329321] |
Tue, 20 February 2018 19:10 |
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Tom Lins
Messages: 372
Registered: February 2004
Location: St Augustine, FL
Karma: 1
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bdub wrote on Tue, 20 February 2018 09:01It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....
Good luck
bdub
I pushed the drawer in and out a bunch of times watching the hose carefully and it was kinking slightly but it did not appear to being completely closed off so I replaced it anyway just because it is old and not in that great shape ( guess I should watch out). I made it the same length as the piece I took out and now it does not kink at all. However that was not the primary reason for the problem. When I started to smack on the control board connector plug the Troll would sputter and hiccup. The plug had some corrosion and some of the male pins are broken short so I cleaned it up as much as possible and made a few temp bypasses of the plug to get it running. Jim K has the plugs so I'll have to order them.
Thank You all, for the pointers
-----Original Message-----
From: Gmclist Behalf Of Tom Lins
Sent: Monday, February 19, 2018 10:55 PM
Subject: Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump
JohnL455 wrote on Mon, 26 June 2017 13:17
> What is the correct ID and OD for the Onan drawer to fuel pump. Should I
go with Tygon or Stens True Blue? Are they the same? I think I am
> getting the " refigerator door light" syndrome where it runs fine pulled
out and pinches off put away. Age is unknown so want to eliminate the risk
> by installing fresh.
Did you ever resolve the issue to your satisfaction? I believe I am having
this same issue with my onan. Put the electronic ignition on the Onan (the
first time I pulled the drawer out) Pushed the drawer back in after wrapping
up the install and it would not start. I pulled the drawer out and tried
to start from the Onan itself it started right up and ran perfectly. So I
stopped it and pushed it back in. We packed up the coach to take the
grandkids to the beach and being a bit warm tried to start the gen and once
again crank but no run.
Has anyone found hose that will reliably not kink?
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Tom Lins
St Augustine, FL
77 GM Rear Twin, Dry Bath, 455, Aluminum Radiator Quad-Bag Suspension Solar Panel
Manuals on DVD
YOUTUBE Channel: GMC Dealer Training Tapes
http://www.bdub.net/tomlins/
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| Re: [GMCnet] Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329351 is a reply to message #329321] |
Tue, 20 February 2018 21:14 |
Jim Miller
Messages: 501
Registered: March 2008
Karma: 10
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Senior Member |
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After reading over the symptoms i agree with bdub completely. If the unit was running fine while extended on slides - and when pushed into the compartment it refused to restart - then that could not be a kinked fuel line. There would be enough fuel inventory in the carb bowl and the pump chamber to allow it to restart and run for perhaps 30 seconds or more even if the hose to the vehicle tank was blocked.
The 9-pin connection is really a 12-pin Molex that connects the Onan wiring harness to the control board. There is/was a four pin connector that tied the Onan control board to the inside-of-coach start/stop switch. I’ve seen many of these four pin connectors (including mine) that caused major reliability problems and if I were troubleshooting the issue then I would concentrate my attention on that one first…followed by the 12-pin Molex that ties the control board to the Onan wiring harness.
You can always bypass everything by jumpering control board 5 to 9 and starting it. If it runs OK then push it back into the enclosure with the jumper in place and see how it runs. If it runs well then your problem is wiring - not fuel. If it dies after a few tens of seconds or perhaps a minute - then fix the fuel problem and then re-evaluate the wiring harness situation.
Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
> On Feb 20, 2018, at 9:01 AM, Billy Massey wrote:
>
> It's very likely that your problem is not fuel related at all. Pull the
> drawer all the way out so you can get to the wiring from the junction box
> way back in the hole to the generator controls. With it running, shake that
> bundle of wires, pull and push to replicate what might go on when it's in
> the hole. I'll bet you can kill it with that action. That's what I found
> anyway. This proves that the problem is a bad connection or short in that
> bundle or where a wire is attached. Also, take the 9 pin (?) connection
> apart and clean it real good with some CRC2-26 (available from Home Depot).
> Finally cured my problem after new fuel hose, carb kit, fuel pump, ....
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Jim Miller
1977 Eleganza II
1977 Royale
Hamilton, OH
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| Re: Onan 6k fuel line drawer to pump [message #329360 is a reply to message #319612] |
Wed, 21 February 2018 07:51 |
JohnL455
Messages: 4447
Registered: October 2006
Location: Woodstock, IL
Karma: 12
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Senior Member |
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Let me clarify. The unit had been pulled and all 12V and 125V replaced or cleaned up, reinstalled and dressed. After running fine pulled out and pushed back in, after a few mins it would start to hunt a little, then worse, then die after a minute or so. The fuel line was kinked but not 100% so it would eventually not be able to keep the level up in the bowl. Adding load made it much worse of course. . I figgured it was something simple and it was. Starts in a few rotations now after sitting for months and if run recently it starts as soon as you hit the switch whether cold or hot. Mine seems to have no need for the primer mod. My choke works correctly so that is key to short cranking times.
John Lebetski
Woodstock, IL
77 Eleganza II
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